Jump to content

RobertR

Member
  • Posts

    1,195
  • Joined

  • Days Won

    31

RobertR last won the day on August 3 2018

RobertR had the most liked content!

Community Information

  • Member Title
    Legendary Member

Personal Information

  • Location
    Western New York
  • RealName
    Robert Remington
  • Occupation
    Retired

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

RobertR's Achievements

TO-247L Transistor

TO-247L Transistor (17/21)

847

Reputation

  1. Guess you mean Cabin 10? If there were a Cabin 20, that really would be different... See you soon, wherever. RR
  2. It's model number was MXR-180. If it really was working before storage but now after sitting a long time it pops the fuse, it likely has electrolytic capacitor failure. You'd need a DMM or volt-ohmeter, and a VARIAC would be useful too, to find what is most likely a shorted part. But even then, the other caps in there are equally old, and need renewal at this point, so Kevin's advice is most sensible; he knows those receivers probably better than anybody. It's a lady dog to work on - getting into the folded boards in front will test anybody's vocabulary. However, when it works, this unit is very good - more power than anybody else's at that time, cool running, and a very good tuner as well. But as you have learned, leave the remote unhooked. RobertR
  3. The good news - OTD has opted to join us in Cabin 2 for the first week, so looks like it's all filled up. Deposit has been sent - total is up about $500 over last time, which was 2019; that's the bad news. RR
  4. Once more I have to correct the error - there is no such thing as an MXR2000. You have an MXR-180 model number), commonly called The Receiver 2000. BTW, there is no 'MXR 900', either. Receiver 900, or MXR-90. RR
  5. Many a C-1 has had that problem, and had it fixed with some Deoxit or other such product. Before trying anything else, spray those contacts, then work the switch a bunch of times. If this fixes it, the cure should last for years. RobertR
  6. Welcome b-rider The Manuals and Specsheets section is an ongoing project, and the Carver Receivers section is still pretty new, and undergoing growing pains. Various members are still finding documents, and gradually they get posted. One immediate problem is that the 'MXR' designation is misused in a few places and some editing is needed. This confusion can be blamed largely on the Carver Corp. people at the time – marketing concerns (I guess) caused them to call their model MXR-130, their first receiver, simply “The Carver Receiver”. One looks in vain to find the actual model number on the unit, or in either manual. As Bob tweaked it to make it more powerful, it became the MXR-150, and finally the MXR-180. This last version topped out at 200 wpc (just barely) and was simply called “The Carver Receiver 2000”. There is no such model as an MXR 2000! Same problem occurs in the lower-powered model of that day, the MXR-90. It got marketed as “The Carver Receiver 900” (marketing loves to append a zero!). There is no such model as an MXR-900. And there is no MXR 6250 either! With the Audio/Video models 6200 and 6250 there is no MXR in front of their names. It seems that their actual model numbers were used, a nice improvement, if true. All the factory information I've seen about either model is already on the forum – just the Service manual for the 6200, [and it shows up in the wrong column; hopefully someone with access will fix that]. Doubtless there were some ECO's, SB's, etc. for these AV models, and that literature always uses the actual model number; maybe one day we'll find some, and know for sure. RobertR
  7. magicsam, The Mk2 schematic I have was just submitted to the Forum; it's in the form of digital photos of Sunfire's drafts, and after some needed technical upgrading hopefully it will soon appear in the Sunfire Schematic section, along with a few others I had. The two boards are 653-010 Rev. B-1, and 653-011 Rev. C-3, meaning (as best I can guess) that they are the tenth and eleventh board designs that Sunfire ever produced; they're dated Jan. 1995. Hopefully the same as in the originals. Look on your boards for such numbers as those. The original 2-channel amp, Sunfire's first product, contains boards 653-001, 002, 003, 004, & 005, so you get the idea - 010 & 011 are early. In the True Subs I've fixed, all the electrolytics are usually pretty tired. If you have a cap tester, remove and try a few of the smaller ones. If they are labeled 4.7 at whatever voltage, the capacitance should test at least that high. Among these smaller electrolytics, new ones most always seem to test comfortably over spec. but old well-used ones start to sink below rated value before they crap out completely. One of the symptoms that shows up first is failure to stay on - automatic shutoff takes it back to standby mode right after the bass drum hit that got it to turn on at all. That shutdown circuit cutoff depends not only on the electrolytic that discharges over 10 minutes of no bass signal, but also on other caps that filter the regulated the DC supply that charges it in the first place. I'd strongly advise against trying to out engineer Bob Carver. That circuit is complicated, with lots of safety goodies. Best to leave it as Bob intended. For longevity, again I recommend unplugging it when not using it for any extended period. RR
  8. The Mark II model came out in the mid-90s. If yours is a Mark II it should say so; otherwise probably the earlier model, with larger drivers. I don't have the older schematic, but I suspect it's very similar, and assuming it is, you are going to need more caps than you mentioned. Just 4.7 mf size alone probably number over a dozen, and after two and a half decades they are all ripe for replacement. Many involved in 12 and 13 volt DC supplies. Didn't mean to insult your intelligence about discharging caps, but figure better chancing that than somebody gets floored... RobertR
  9. S/N says 1996 - probably an Original TS model – someone correct me if I'm wrong – never had one that old. Whatever the age, capacitor failure is certainly most likely, as your friend says, in fact it's a near-certainty, but I'd suspect the smaller electrolytics before the two biggest ones. Most of those smaller and mid-sized caps run all the time the unit is plugged in, filtering the low voltage DC supplies, and at this point ought to have been replaced long since. Use 105o types whenever you can get them – they really last longer. BTW, with those big caps, at least one of them stays charged quite a while after unplugging the unit, and it's got enough voltage (AC line voltage x 1.414) to make you wish you hadn't discharged it though your hand or whatever, if you get careless. If you're looking for the power transformer, check outside – it's that big thing that belongs to the electric company. The line voltage goes right to the rectifier diodes. Personally, I keep mine unplugged when not in use. As stated above, those low voltage supply filters never rest when she's plugged in, even though the output stage shuts off automatically. Another known problem, at least in later versions, is faulty/dirty controls, sometimes curable by the right spray cleaner and some repeated turning, end-to-end. Post a few pics if you can figure out how; if not, somebody will help you. RR
  10. Hello magicsam and welcome! There are Truesub schematics, and we have a fair working knowledge of the typical problems that are encountered. There are several different circuits for the various models, so you need to tell us what model you need help with, and give some idea of what the symptoms are. RobertR
  11. "Of all time" covers a lot, including before a single one of us was alive. With that in mind, I'd have to give the nod for the most over-rated (and hyper-hyped) Hollywood contribution to 1939's Gone With The Wind. Selznick's Technicolor fantasy-depiction of the Old South, it tells the story of Scarlett, who starts out as a self-centered brat and nearly four spectacular hours and a surfeit of popcorn later is still a self-centered brat. Gable wouldn't even attempt to sound the least bit Southern, Leslie Howard always turned my stomach, and Olivia deHavilland 's character was so wet you could irrigate Arabia with her. It gets worse - the original showing was in two parts, over two nights, so you had to pay up twice to see the whole gruesome production. RobertR
  12. Ray - Have you tried them about half that far apart, but with SH? Huge! RobertR
  13. Those cabinets were from the factory, and not uncommon. Remember, that model was the best selling Phase Linear model ever. The drawback with the PL1000 wasn't looks, it was that it had unusual dimensions, and thus didn't stack well with all the usual 19" stuff. The wooden case just makes that problem a bit worse.
  14. It took me several years to figure out to post pictures - problems with my browser, and with my head. I hate it that somebody can do it in less than an hour But welcome anyway! RobertR
  15. What a fun 8 hours of work and worry. In my quest for answers to what this thread started to be about, I was going to first try to edit Window Media Player's settings according to a geek forum person's advice, but it didn't even show up in my start menu's programs list, so I thought it must be flawed, I'd best reload it. Big mistake, turns out. Before anything I asked for was loaded, a lot I didn't ask for was. "search.conduit" and "appbario8" both arrived together. They take over your search engine (I had to search for Google!), add toolbar crap, ads pop up, etc. You cannot uninstall them, or in the latter's case even find it. Conduit gives the appearance of being uninstallable, but it's all lies. The scan that Windows contains ran 75 minutes and found NONE of it, in over 300,000 files. Malwarebytes got a lot of it, but not the last 36 files - for that I had to go pretty deep, guided by a forum, and zap them one at a time. It worked, finally. But pretty nerve wracking. I got rid of appbario8 simply by following the same forum's advice and uninstalling, then reinstalling Firefox, my default browser. And even then, at the last second the bastards tried to sucker me into retaining it. But it all seems to be gone now. BTW, Explorer, Google Chrome, and others are just as vulnerable, I'm told. A couple of very well designed pieces of treachery. RobertR
×
×
  • Create New...