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Power By Carver (aka Zumbini's man cave)

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After 30 years of procrastinating I finally got around to doing something about cable management.
Since I swap out components regularly I wanted something flexible and easy to access.
This is what I wound up with:
The AC cords are now routed through cable trays, out of sight and away from the signal cables.
I bought the 1 1/2" square slotted PVC cable trays from McMaster-Carr (part number #7578K76).
The horizontal runs are held in place with cable ties. The vertical runs are screwed to the cabinet.
The project took all of 4 hours to complete and cost less than $120.

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Guest RodH

Hey Z, now you can run a second set of shielded trays for the signal cables emteeth.gif

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That made my day!emthup.gif
Do the "C" clamps provide alighnment. (I could never spell)
Give the rack a very good ground.

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I did a little mini-project last night, swapping out the amber LEDs BillD installed in my M-500 with some cool whites.
Originally my thought was to match the factory installed incandescent bulbs and amber looked good on the color chart.

Unfortunately as the amber LEDs heated up they shifted noticeably to the red side and dimmed appreciably.

So when Bill started overhauling my M-500t we decided to change to these Cool White 6500K LEDs.
After installing them in the "project" amp Bill sent me a 2nd set with leads attached to swap with the ambers.
My overhauled M-500 already had one of Bill's rectifier boards installed so it was pretty straightforward.
All I had to do was desolder the amber leads and replace them with the new ones.
Here's what they looked like going in.
Here is a shot of the M-500 with the ANSI White LEDs installed (this is the low setting)
here it is with the amber LEDs (a bit underexposed but you get the idea...)
and here is an M-500t with incandescent bulbs
I am very happy with the cool white LEDs. Which one do you like best?
Edited by zumbini
fixed broken link

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Nice look' date=' I like the cool white LEDs, they look the clearest of all your options, but how bright are they?[/quote']
VERY bright! A bit too much for my taste when set to the bright setting so I run them on dim.
BillD designed and built the rectifier board show in the photo below.
I imagine increasing the resistance would reduce the maximum output. Bill?

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Well, I redesigned that board since I put the lamps in series.  The new board uses more resistance.  The board shown by Z has two  6.2Ω resistors in series for 12.4Ω.  When the dimmer switch is turned to bright, it puts the other pair of 6.2Ω resistors in parallel to yield an overall 6.2Ω resistance.  It was done this way when I was wiring the lamps in parallel, and each lamp had either 6.2Ω or 3.1Ω (in parallel in bright) on its cathode.  With the series setup, I changed resistor values and use only two.



This new circuit has 22Ω on the cathode of the two LEDs in dim mode.  When you switch to bright, the second 22Ω resistor is put in parallel with the first to yield 11Ω.  A better choice than fussing with the resistors is to select LEDs that don't put out that much light.  LEDs are current devices and need specific voltages to produce the correct color temperature, as Z noted in the amber LED comments.  Another dimmer choice is a triac like used in a halogen lamp dimmer, but I didn't want to go there.

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As I mentioned earlier I had offered my son his pick of my gear as a graduation present.
This was contingent upon his grades which turned out to be excellent (7 A's and 1 B+).
Yesterday he made his choices, selecting my CT-Seven, DTL-200MK2 and M-1.0t.
I hate giving up my mint CT-Seven but he made some great choices. Smart kid eh?

He doesn't have much room for speakers so the Infinity RS2001's were ideal.
For their size they handle an amazing amount of power with clarity and detail.
I'm looking for a small passive subwoofer to give the system some bottom end.
Anybody have one they are willing to part with?

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Earlier today I pulled out most of the gear that's going to my son and installed the C-1 I won on epray for testing.
(BillD has my two M-500t's for overhaul/upgrade so Zack's M-1.0t is taking up the slack until I get them back.)
The C-1 is in dire need of cleaning (especially the faceplate) but there is hardly a scratch on it.
The pots were quiet, the buttons worked and all the inputs and outputs checked out.
My only concern is that switching to either tape monitor loop results in a 3-5dB drop in output.
This is my 1st C-1 but I can't imagine that is "normal". Does anyone have an idea what might be wrong?

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I have to admit it's been fun sharing my love of music and audio gear with him.
We've always had similar interests like railroading, model rockets and baseball.
But with those hobbies, I was always the master, and he was my student.
With music it has grown beyond that, to the point where we learn from each other.
That's very cool, and very rewarding.

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