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Technics SL-1300MK2 LED upgrade RPM & Pitch %

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Technics SL-1300MK2

Does anybody have Experience with or recommendations regarding replacement of the existing incandescent Lamps? & or upgrading to LEDs (Red) for the Turntables RPM and Pitch % Displays?

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I have not looked recently, but there was a seller that occasionally offered "LED Upgrade Kits" for turntables on Ebay to change the color from standard ambers and reds, to blue, green, and other colors.

 

I purchased one for my Dual 721 Direct Drive turntable that changed out the red, for blue.  It was a while ago, so I can't dig up the seller's name anymore.

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2 hours ago, AndrewJohn said:

I have not looked recently, but there was a seller that occasionally offered "LED Upgrade Kits" for turntables on Ebay to change the color from standard ambers and reds, to blue, green, and other colors.

 

I purchased one for my Dual 721 Direct Drive turntable that changed out the red, for blue.  It was a while ago, so I can't dig up the seller's name anymore.

Thanks Andrew John, I  had found a Seller online offering a LED kit for an earlier Technics SL-1200MK2 Model, I did send a message to that Seller asking if He / They offered anything for my model.

My concern is the displays that are dark may not have backlit lamps at all and may be LCDs...

I found a Video of the 1300 disassembled and saw the PC Board with the displays GL-7R203 & GL-7R204 

I have not located those displays for sale online yet, still looking...

Here's a cropped photo I took of the video paused with the displays...

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31 minutes ago, randog311 said:

Thanks HappyTrails, I  just sent KAB an E/Mail...

He can be a bit slow to reply, FYI.

Good stuff, I have done quite a bit to my 1200mkII with KAB's stuff. 

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9 hours ago, gold98gtp said:

I don't recall LCD displays being available back in the late 70's when your TT was made.

 

LCD's were invented in the early 70's, in production by mid-late 70's.  Those shown in the photo look like LCD panels; if not LCD what else could they be? LED?

 

Have you tried doing a re-cap of the power supply electrolytic capacitors, randog?

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40 minutes ago, Honey Badger said:

 

LCD's were invented in the early 70's, in production by mid-late 70's.  Those shown in the photo look like LCD panels; if not LCD what else could they be? LED?

 

Have you tried doing a re-cap of the power supply electrolytic capacitors, randog?

Thanks Honey Badger,

I haven't yet disassembled my unit, I  still need to repair the broken "Cueing-Cam Ring", I'm trying to make a game plan and get all my Ducks in a row of things I need to do while it's apart and have as many of the items / parts on hand to hopefully have it apart only a short while. 

Re-Caping the power supply sounds like a good thing to add to the list,  so hopefully I can get my Hands on a list of the Caps needed as well?

You may be onto something,  there could be a failed Cap in there attributing to dark LCD panels?

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It's hard to say, but lots of times if there is a bad cap the circuit downstream either gets no voltage or AC voltage when it should have DC.  That can either cause components like IC's to not operate or short out.  You should probably re-cap before trying to replace the displays.  Look for a service manual on vinylengine.com for a schematic.

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Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, HappyTrails said:

He can be a bit slow to reply, FYI.

Good stuff, I have done quite a bit to my 1200mkII with KAB's stuff. 

Got a reply back from Kevin at KAB

 

Yes, the Pitch and Speed Controls function properly 

 

I also found a Repair Manual online...

 

Screenshot_20190325-095830_GMX Mail.jpg

Demo Video KAB sent me...

 

 

Edited by randog311
Added Video Link
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Posted (edited)

you could check with Deltronics  either in North Chicago, or at Woodridge  Il.  I have two of these turn tables in the shop at woodridge getting the lift arm part replaced.  I supplied two plastic printed replacement parts that always break on these turn tables (was a weak design) that plagued these turntables.  One is mine the other is my daughters.    http://www.deltronics.com/  

Edited by danowood
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I'd still suspect a failed cap or something in the power supply to them since both are not working.  If one was dead it would point to a failed LED.  If both went dark at the same time then it's more likely it was caused by something else powering them.

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Honey Badger said:

I'd still suspect a failed cap or something in the power supply to them since both are not working.  If one was dead it would point to a failed LED.  If both went dark at the same time then it's more likely it was caused by something else powering them.

 

Got a second reply back from KAB...

 

I do believe in arbitrarily replacing Caps that are over 20 years old...

 

Screenshot_20190325-105855_GMX Mail.jpg

 

 

Edited by randog311
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1 hour ago, danowood said:

you could check with Deltronics  either in North Chicago, or at Woodridge  Il.  I have two of these turn tables in the shop at woodridge getting the lift arm part replaced.  I supplied two plastic printed replacement parts that always break on these turn tables (was a weak design) that plagued these turntables.  One is mine the other is my daughters.    http://www.deltronics.com/  

 

Thanks Danowood 

 

I am planning on fixing mine (better than new)  with the aide of the following repair Video I found...

 

 

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21 minutes ago, randog311 said:

 

Thanks Danowood 

 

I am planning on fixing mine (better than new)  with the aide of the following repair Video I found...

 

 

Thats the broken part I'm having replaced, you can get them in plastic printed part replacements now.

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Replacement of electrolytics in a logic-circuit TT circa ~1978 isn't an arbitrary replacement, it's a move to preserve functionality of the player.  Electrolytics don't have an infinite life and if one passes AC (or high DC) and frys an IC the player could quickly become a 'parts unit'.  I know you agree with me on this, randog... just pointing it out for those who may read this thread later.

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43 minutes ago, danowood said:

Thats the broken part I'm having replaced, you can get them in plastic printed part replacements now.

 

Thanks Danowood 

There are 2 Potential problems I see with the 3D printed part:

1:  If the part isn't improved to overcome the original parts design flaws it will likely Fail as well...

(I would recommend having your Installer add the outer "Support Wire Mod" to the new parts of both units to prevent future failures).

2: I watched another Video where a Gentleman had a shop install a 3D Printed part and a slight difference in dimensions Caused one Channel to go dead (when the Tone Arm  / Stylus  is not over the record both Channels are switched off, his installers Solution was to disable the switch).

I don't feel that there is any advantage to using a more costly part over using a piece of Mechanics Wire and a bit of Superglue...

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Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, randog311 said:

 

Thanks Danowood 

There are 2 Potential problems I see with the 3D printed part:

1:  If the part isn't improved to overcome the original parts design flaws it will likely Fail as well...

(I would recommend having your Installer add the outer "Support Wire Mod" to the new parts of both units to prevent future failures).

2: I watched another Video where a Gentleman had a shop install a 3D Printed part and a slight difference in dimensions Caused one Channel to go dead (when the Tone Arm  / Stylus  is not over the record both Channels are switched off, his installers Solution was to disable the switch).

I don't feel that there is any advantage to using a more costly part over using a piece of Mechanics Wire and a bit of Superglue...

 

the 3d design part was modified and beefed up in the area where the default was. There is an area on the 3d printed part that required a small bit of filing to be done, not sure if that was to address the issue you refereed to.   heres some more info.   http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/fixed-cueing-arm-lift-for-technics-sl1300-1400-1500-mk2-series.585566/

Edited by danowood
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Hello Danowood,  today I  repaired the Broken "Cueing Cam" on my late brother's Technics SL-1300MK2, I haven't yet reassembled the complete Turntable nor have I  found the cause of the dark LCD Displays,  I will update...

BTW: I  am more than satisfied that my repair will outlast the Turntable...

 

My Modification / Repair also required me to Modify / Cut Away a section of the Relay / Plate, Arm Rest... (see photos below)

To allow for the added Wire Support (Paperclip) to clear...

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Posted (edited)

Update,  the Turntable is back together,  I've successfully fixed the "Cueing Issue" (both Manual and Auto), applied "Stabilant 22A" (conduuctivity enhancer) to all the cable and Cartridge Connections, made all necessary Tone Arm Adjustments and Cleaned and Lubricated all the "Sticky Buttons"...

 

Sounds great!

 

The "RPM" & Pitch "%" Displays are still Dark.

 

I also noticed that Both "Lamps" for the "Start" & "Stop" Buttons are inoperative. 

 

I am now assuming that there's something "in common" causing both Lamps and both LCD Displays to be dark, I will later study the schematic...(if it was an Automotive Dash Display I would be looking for "Voltage Stabilizer" which Vehicles need due to the  range of Voltage varying between about 9 to 15 Volts)

 

Only other issue I am finding now that the "Automatic Play" & "Automatic Stop" features are functioning properly is that the "Automatic Return" function isn't optional,  I've tried "exercising" the "On / Off" Switch several times without success,  still could just be "Oxidized Contacts" within the Switch, I will attempt to correct that issue at a later date. 

 

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Edited by randog311
Added Note

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14 hours ago, danowood said:

did you try deoxit on the contacts?

 

I haven't yet used anything on the Contacts within the Auto Return On / Off Switch. 

When I disassemble the unit in the future I will use a different Professional Product I have from Wurth  called "Contact Cleaner OL"...

It is an Aerosol, I have used this product for 25 years , I've found that it can also be used on inoperative Automotive Window Switches and the like without disassembly, it creeps into the Switch,  Cleans Oxidation from the Contacts and leaves a Protective Film behind. Also works great on Potentiometers.

 

As far as other plug in Contacts,  as stated earlier in this thread,  I used Stabilant 22A which comes in an Eyedropper and is available through Audi and VW Dealerships.

I have used this Product mostly on Airbag Connections that have had an excessive resistance fault,  it greatly improves Conductivity with out transfer to nearby Contacts especially in critical Low Current applications.

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