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for my own personal concert ….

heres my little home experience

 

sony e9000es

bsr eq for the spectrum analyzer

flac streamed from bluray

2 m1.5ts one purple one blue both matched internals

a760x for the lows powering 12 and 15 sony mobile es subs in custom built boxes

vmps super tower iia/r

vmps qs808 for rear

hoping to get another set of vmps towers in the future for the rear and then my life will be complete :)

Ml0Phrh.jpg

 

vid of the a760 after I recapped it doing its thing lol

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ezv-goDQE5c

 

I actually got quite few carver pieces.

m500t m1.0t 3 m1.5ts a760x a753x a500x a220 2 tfm-15cbs tfm-35x tfm-55x tfm-24 tfm-45 and just scored a c-1 preamp which showed today yay.

heres a pic of a tfm15 and a220 I just recently listed for sale

bxihCEJ.jpgeUSpIOl.jpg

 ill add more pics when im alittle more organized and my final build is setup

and yes that is red white and blue like an American amp should be haha :)

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thanks, I do alright most mods are fairly easy and I spent most of my childhood soldering team associated rc cars lol so soldering is fun to me.

still learning a bit but so far brought 3 amps back from the dead so cant complain I suppose

 

honestly the m1.5t is my favorite. it has the sweetest sound of all the solid state carvers to me. the m1.5t is very controlled and very precise. has no problem powering those 16 drivers at 6ohm. everyone always goes to the m500t for best sounding but I disagree. and every 500t ive seen in action had no control over the woofers at all. just kinda floated around. ive heard 4 of em all the same. however I do have m500t that ill prolly mk2 at some point and recompare it. maybe its a better amp for mids and highs alone idk

 

however I don't run my system without subs and hands down any A series 2 channel amp is the best amp for subs.

ive tried all other carver models and the a220 would over power m series and most of all tfm series. unfortunately I sold the silver seven t's and tfm-75 before I got my hands on an a760x to compare. the lightstar only amp haven't gotten my hands on yet

a760x so far haven't found something to compete with it in subwoofers at 4 ohms. so....

 

that's why I bought a m1.0t recently time for an mk2 opt2 upgrade and give the a760x a rival. however I don't think the m1.0t will win either. but im also looking for most power out of one cord.

but hey nothing wrong with experimenting having fun. what I like and what everyone likes and opinions will differ. but always keep an open mind

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Nice set of equipment!  OCCD is strong with this one!

 

Glad you found us!  Looking forward to seeing more photos!  Welcome to the Carversite!  I think you will fit in well here!  As always enjoy the music!

 

barry

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I've been a fan of VMPS speakers since the eighties. A close friend had a pair of Super Tower IIs biamped with 4 M400ts. After he sold the cubes, he biamped with a pair of Adcom amps.

 

One day I went to his house, and I had to wait until between Ozzy tracks to ring the bell. When his wife answered the door to let me in, we went into the living room so she could turn down the stereo, and we found their ceiling fan in the floor. 

 

I loved those speakers, and he sold them for close to nothing. He didn't know they could be repaired, refurbed.  Once Brian Cheney passed, he thought they became boat anchors.  I wish I would have known. 

 

There's three pair of Super Tower IIIs on ebay now.

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5 hours ago, allflehisequalwhenburnt said:

 

honestly the m1.5t is my favorite.

I tend to lean in this direction as well, but do like the m500t (see next comment).

 

5 hours ago, allflehisequalwhenburnt said:

everyone always goes to the m500t for best sounding but I disagree.

The m500t is my preference for lower listening levels, preferred over  the m1.5t.  It seems to provide more definition and soundstage without needing the volume at 11.

 

5 hours ago, allflehisequalwhenburnt said:

that's why I bought a m1.0t recently time for an mk2 opt2 upgrade

The mkII opt002 is a $250 disappointment for me (cost of parts nine months ago, now even higher) . I prefer the m1.5t over it,  at least with my setup. The one advantage of bumping the voltage up 12% is the mag coil appreciates it.  The idle current on mine is under 275mA, lowest of all of my past and present Carver amps.  M1.5t seem to run in the 400-450mA range, m500 seem to run right at 400mA.

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@sk1bum - yeah ive been eyeing those. but im really looking for another set of the tower iia/r or the tower ii. trying to stick with same year models etc. even started buying up original woofers for the towers just to have spare parts incase. I got these towers from my dads best friend. he used to run a stereo store in Torrance California back in the 80's/90's was a dealer for vmps cerwin and jamo and carried quite a bit of carver. he finally let em go to me last year for 2500. he has a set of tower ii's so im hoping just to buy those as well lol imagine being a kid walking into someones house and just wall to wall speakers and amps. I loved it

 

@jeffs - I will agree on sub duty the m500t outshines the m1.5t however the m1.5t does solid whacks better. I just cant get over the floating in the woofers with the m500t. that's why I love a series for lows. they have the whack and control of the m1.5t but with the dynamic range of the m500t. almost like if you merged a m1.5t and m500t you get the a series.

 

interesting opinion on the mk2 opt2. I was hoping it would be a more powerful m1.5t with just the same sound. now im going to have to upgrade this m1.0t to find out if I even like it. so far ive tried the m1.0t stock on lows and hasn't done bad but haven't tried with highs yet.

interesting about the voltages does it increase the temps at all?

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31 minutes ago, allflehisequalwhenburnt said:

interesting about the voltages does it increase the temps at all?

Runs nice and cool. Some of my m1.5t run hotter than others at idle.  I don't know why as they all seen to have about the same idle current? All of the Carver mag coils seem to have an idle sweet spot.  Take the pm1.5 for example, the mag coil is huge, but if it doesn't have enough load, then there is a problem.  Bunch of current with nowhere to go, buzz increases as does idle current. I've found that by loading the secondary a little,  LOWER idle current and less buzz can be achieved.  Similarly, increasing the voltage of the m1.0t, which can only be done after the mkII mod, allows it to idle less restricted, and consume less power. I measured mine recently as i did not have a current meter when I built it, surprised as to how low it was.  I think lower idle current is mentioned somewhere in one of the  longer mkII write-ups.

 

52 minutes ago, allflehisequalwhenburnt said:

interesting opinion on the mk2 opt2. I was hoping it would be a more powerful m1.5t with just the same sound

I seem to be in the minority with this opinion.  Not the first time that's happened. I read so much good about the mkII mod that I was expecting some type of significant sonic improvement from the m1.5t.  I just don't experience it. The m1.0t sounds boomy to me on the low end, where the m1.5t is tight, more punch, thumps you right in the chest.  If I was short on power, instead of doing a mkII mod, I would buy another m1.5t and run two units in mono  ... that is, connect left chan signal to both inputs on one m1.5t but only load one output with a speaker, same config on the right. This configuration allows the loaded side to "borrow"  current from the unloaded side ... I think you can get 750wrms to one channel this way.  This IS NOT the same as bridged, the m1.5t CAN NOT be bridged.  The cost of the extra m1.5t is in the ballpark to the cost of the m1.0t mkII upgrade.

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On 4/20/2019 at 4:36 PM, jeffs said:

If I was short on power, instead of doing a mkII mod, I would buy another m1.5t and run two units in mono  ... that is, connect left chan signal to both inputs on one m1.5t but only load one output with a speaker, same config on the right. This configuration allows the loaded side to "borrow"  current from the unloaded side ... I think you can get 750wrms to one channel this way.

 

Bob refers to that as "power steering". Here's an excerpt from the M-1.5t user manual:

226182779_CarverM-1.5tpowersteeringdescription.jpg.b08110e0b2aa16d9608028e3fce3c20a.jpg

 

Note that you only need to feed one pair of amp inputs to achieve power steering, but then the meter LEDs for the unused channel don't light up.

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Great to hear diversity in assessing these amps.  There is no "one solution" for everyone.  I'm a fan of the M4.0t over the MkII - but use them in different configurations than most.

 

I think the "a" series amps don't get enough attention, either - so it's interesting to hear about those and your experience.  Darn, wish I knew you were letting a TFM 75 go, when you did - that's one I have not had to experience first hand.  Maybe someday.

 

Love the pictures - keep them coming.

 

Welcome to the CarverSite!

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hey guys thanks for the warm welcome.

since the site was down for those few weeks ive been a very busy boy. lol

ended up buying 5 m1.0t's 1 753x 1 tfm24 1 c1 1 c4000 1 tfm 42 and 45

serviced 4 m1.5ts and a c1 and built 2 mk2 opt 2 amps.

 

the c1 I tweaked a bit. full metal resistors muse and fine gold caps silver mica to replace the ceramics and gold plate upgrade.

left the opamps alone. what resulted in a very detailed and quiet preamp. theres zero hiss hums buzzes even when the volume is turned to max.

when the music quiets down to 1 one instrument still no background noise and no noise when changing tracks.

youd never know the preamp was on. im very pleased with the result. however im thinking of getting another c1 and doing the same thing however replacing all 9 opamps then compare it to the non opamp. 

6m2nrO0.jpg5rPqMsu.jpg

heres the c1 and mk2 opt2 put together and running

U5uAFwn.jpg

the a753x lidless lol ^^ don't trust ebay sellers too much

 

bough a tfm-45 for 300 recapped it upgraded it turned around and sold it when for 819 this model had gold plated pins on pcb

3clHWPr.jpghTAf9sm.jpge9sYlzG.jpg

 

bought a tfm-24 that was supposed to be in perfect working order my ass. had some bad parts in the right channel. fixed it recapped and upgraded it and getting ready to sell it lol

388Iy9U.jpgW3qk13s.jpg

 

sold a recapped m1.5t with purple lights

CG9lL3o.jpg

 

serviced a m200t

ApQq0s1.jpg0BYGt0s.jpgov5icUU.jpgotoDkDJ.jpg

 

and some soundtests on the m1.5ts I serviced

 

that's all I got for now lol

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Man ... I thought I had strong dose of the disorder. LOL.  All looks great!

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3 hours ago, allflehisequalwhenburnt said:

...however im thinking of getting another c1 and doing the same thing however replacing all 9 opamps then compare it to the non opamp...

 

As some others told me before I did a similar mod to my C-11, if you change all of the opamps and use anything good, it will need more current and you will need to upgrade the power supply.  I ended up doing so on mine, and it worked great but was more work than I originally planned.

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10 hours ago, BrianD said:

As some others told me before I did a similar mod to my C-11, if you change all of the opamps and use anything good, it will need more current and you will need to upgrade the power supply.  I ended up doing so on mine, and it worked great but was more work than I originally planned.

The power supply in the C-1 is a poor design. The 12V supplies are unregulated. I don't understand why people go to the effort of doing the BIllD and don't address the +/-12V supply, or even worse, they address it by just lowering the values of R404 and R405.  In one case I read a post where the modder purchased an entire range of 1/2W resistors in order to trim the 12V just right. Too much effort. If you use headphones, which introduce the most significant load change, things go out of whack again. Replace R404 and R405 with LDO regulators. Cost = $5-6 including heat sinks, added effort is minimal.

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A very belated welcome @allflehisequalwhenburnt - you have a great set-up (or should I say set-ups, as it seems to be a mix and match, based on the OCCD acquisition of the day?).   Like others, I thought I knew what the addictive qualities of OCCD meant, but compared to you, I'm definitely not worthy.  All I can say is:  

OCCD_Lives_Here.jpg               :D       ~^       =D=

 

 

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On 5/29/2019 at 11:20 AM, jeffs said:

Replace R404 and R405 with LDO regulators. Cost = $5-6 including heat sinks, added effort is minimal.

Do you have a writeup on this

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37 minutes ago, Packratt said:

Do you have a writeup on this

No ..... but ...... I needed a few parts from Mouser, and I have one more C-1 at home that I want to do at some point, so I just added the regulators and heat sinks to my order. Arrives next Monday.

I have posted a few pics in the past, but when I get the parts, I plan to write it up with pics.  Probably get to it some night next week. It's easiest to do it while doing the BillD mod, but can be added at anytime.

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On 5/29/2019 at 8:20 AM, jeffs said:

The power supply in the C-1 is a poor design. The 12V supplies are unregulated. I don't understand why people go to the effort of doing the BIllD and don't address the +/-12V supply, or even worse, they address it by just lowering the values of R404 and R405.  In one case I read a post where the modder purchased an entire range of 1/2W resistors in order to trim the 12V just right. Too much effort. If you use headphones, which introduce the most significant load change, things go out of whack again. Replace R404 and R405 with LDO regulators. Cost = $5-6 including heat sinks, added effort is minimal.

While you can certainly add some regulators, it won’t help with the problem you will have if you change all of the opamps.  The problem will be that the transformer will not be adequate for the new load requirements, it will get really hot, and if left as is I expect it will fail.  When it does, hope that nothing catches fire😮

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10 hours ago, BrianD said:

 The problem will be that the transformer will not be adequate for the new load requirements

The transformer is inconsistent from unit to unit so you're right, it's difficult to make changes that will work the same across all units.

I've added regulators to several BillD C-1.  To test regulation, I also  added additional load without issue (about 50mA), but admittedly, not for any significant duration.

I've also had a C-1 that had such a weak transformer that I'm not sure there was enough output for a 12V LDO to even operate properly?

The stock opamps combined maximum operating current is  about 100mA, maximum,  45mA typical. (+/-15V supplies)

Replacing all opamps with OPAx134 would increase this to a maximum of 180mA, 144mA typical.

 

I believe that anyone who wants to do mods to a C-1 should first look at the voltage levels at the PS rectifiers.  If they are <14V, the transformer in that unit is crap. 

For that matter, one can just look at the factory values of R404 and R405, if they are less than 20ohm, the transformer in that unit is crap.  This is not to say that higher levels mean the transformer is great, but the weak transformers are certainly a problem.

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just wrapped up my 2nd m1.0t mkll opt2 build. all dialed in and ready to go, cant wait for the test drive tomorrow.

1 m1.0t opt2 on the front  and 1 m1.0t opt2 on the subs

vs

1 m1.0t opt2 on the front and a juiced a760x on the subs.

I still think the a760x will remain supreme for sub duty but I will find out later today

let the destruction commence

uBfAAuO.jpgoy1Buuc.jpg0Emr5rx.jpg

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