jeffs

Welcome! Good luck with your re-works and mods. Lot's of info here.

Welcome!

I don't listen to vinyl often, but I want the capability. My units are kind of low end. At my desk I have a Project AD Box S2 Phono. It's fine for the $100 I paid for it. Has an analog channel which can be digitized or passed thru. https://www.crutchfield.com/S-OSW2qtABAId/p_252ADPBS2B/Pro-Ject-AD-Box-S2.html

welcome. You won't find a manual specific to the older versions of the Sunfire Cinema amps. Mostly the newer owners manual will suffice ....... inputs and outputs are probably going to be in different spots, but clearly marked. Other than I/O the only other feature on the back is the on/auto/off switch which I believe works the same for all of the amps, so any description from another manual will do. The older amps do not have an external trigger input. If you need a schematic, you're likely going to be out-of-luck. I have 2 Cinema amps and the schematics here are not very close.

Transistors don't typically show that much physical damage. Looking at the schematic, the best case scenario for you is that C29 shorted, causing excessive current thru the diode and transistor. I noticed C29 is removed in one pic. If it measures shorted, it's likely the cause of the damage. The resistors in that circuit can get hot. Their proximity to the 1000uF caps can shorten the life of the caps. I would recommend replacing the 1000uF caps in that circuit, and mounting the replacements on the back of the board. Can alleviate future potential thermal problems with these caps.

I don't listen to CDs often, but Love Over Gold pretty much has a permanent spot in my home office 5 disc changer.

Interesting. With the other songs on that recording, I could never have guessed that would be the pick. I don't have a simple answer to this question. Some days I might pick "Dreams" by Fleetwood Mac, off the DVD Audio disc. On a more acoustic feeling type of day it could be "Trouble's What You're In" off Wheels Turn Beneath my Feet, by Fink, ....or "Keith Don't Go" by Nils Lofgren, acoustic live version. Most days it would be something by Dire Straits. "Private Investigations" is a good one .... maybe "You and your Friend" If I had to choose a vinyl recording it would be something off Dire Straits self titled album, probably "Six Blade Knife" or "In the Gallery"

I replied to this 3 days ago as it was posted in the main area as well:

Tidal certainly looks like the best option for Tesla. You would need the Tesla Premium Connectivity option which I think is free for a while, then $100 for an annual fee (or $10 a month). If you don't use Premium Connectivity for anything else, then you have to factor that in. I wanted to like Qobuz. I mean I really wanted to like it. Problem is that it's limited to phones, computers, and maybe some high-end streamers. There are no apps for Firestick, Roku, or Apple TV streamers. "Casting" is not a very good solution. I tried that with intermittent results and constant frustration. Amazon Music streams in HD on computers and Firestick streamers, reduced resolution on the other streamers. Doesn't answer your question directly, just my experience with some of the high resolution services.

The 901s and m1.5t is a good combo. I had it for a while and it can go big ......... problem is the 901s are not very good at lower levels (just my opinion). The front plastic bezel on the m500 can be polished with a succession of Novus 1/2/3 polish, from coarsest to finest, depending on the level of damage. There's probably a thread if you do a search

If you look at the service manual, the bulb looks replaceable. Item 53 in this diagram The schematic is not all that easy to read, but it looks like it's a 10V bulb? It's supplied by the top of the 3 regulators shown below. First step would be to find this lamp and put a voltmeter across the 2 terminals to make sure you have 10V. 99% likelihood it's the lamp, but make sure. Could be a shorted cap on the output of the regulator, or a bad regulator. Never seen one of these so take it apart, out if you can, take a pic and post it.

you might need cap head screws (hex drive)? The heads are smaller in diameter. I've made this work in the past but no longer have that setup. My custom rack rails inside is 17 7/8".

I assume both pieces have the factory notched faces. Reply is based on that. I've made my own racks and have a bit of control over width. I've used Sanus racks that had a bit of adjustability in the width. I could get clearance in those situations. Can you angle it in on one side and rotate to get clearance Clarence? .... or are the screws right where the rails are so you can't get past them? A pic would be great but I know you don't have those privileges yet ....

The spring action is fine. They have a decent amount of throw before they latch. You really need elf fingers as the button itself is quite small. Resting fingers on the top of the unit and pressing with a thumb tip works fine. I detailed this in a different thread, but don't remember where. I basically copied the C-1 gain stage which includes balance. It's easier to show using the C-19 schematic - which is more-or-less the same: So - here's the issue with this, while you do need only a single pot (3 connections) for balance, it's less than ideal. In the default state, with the 50K pot shown, it basically puts 25K ohm in parallel with each volume pot. Not really much of an issue. When the pot is turned all the way to one side, it puts 50K in parallel with one sides volume pot, and ZERO ohms in parallel with the other side. So - you see the 820ohm resistor? It serves as the minimum load that the previous stage will see with the pot twisted all the way. Without it, the previous stage is presented with a ZERO ohm load. In the case of the C-19 shown, the previous stage is an internal op-amp, followed by 1K ohm, so that op-amp would be presented a 1.82Kohm load. Not really an issue. In the case of the C-1, I think the 820 ohm is the same but the 1K changes to 1.5K, so the presented load with balance turned all-the-way would be 2.32Kohm..... however, there is no internal op-amp, so this low load is presented to whatever is connected to the preamp input. It's less than ideal, but is it a problem? It's hard to say but I've never had an issue using a C-1 preamp and I like them quite a bit. I've also never run a unit with balance turned all the way to one side. I will say that once I gave this some thought, I chose to NOT use the balance connections on 2 of the units I built, it's only on one. In the case of my manual unit, I used a C-1 20K ohm takeout 2-gang volume pot. In the case of the remote volume units, the volume pots are 50Kohm 2-gang motorized.