AndrewJohn

Welcome, @KurtLohse. I think you can find belts online - do a google search for "belt for CD players"..., or on eBay, with a search for your particular model CD player. Check out this listing - it says "SD/A 490t, however, the SD/A 450 shares the same transport mechanism, and hence use the same belt. I've had both of these units, and have even transplanted the drives back and forth between the two models - so this belt "should" work for you. Online belt sellers may be available, for less money and lower shipping costs. A google search for the size below from the info that @BobTFM35 shared above. Google AI reports that this belt is often called the following (referenced from TheCarverSite! " A 0.046" square x 2.4" (often referred to as an SBS 2.4 or small square 2.4-inch) rubber drive belt is a standard replacement size used for the tray loading and opening mechanisms in various vintage CD players and changers. " Check out this website: https://vintageaudioparts.zohocommerce.com/categories/square_belts/2151798000005844097 Look for this belt. You could try any number of "assortments" of belts on Amazon, here: Amazon.com : SBS 2.4 cd player belt but unfortunately, most sellers list all kinds of models..., but not Carver..., and then offer large "kits" of lots of belts - which one might fit. Best of luck! Let us know how your repair goes, and don't forget to clean off all the goo that the old belt likely left behind.

Welcome to TheCarverSite. Cool project. Someone on another audio group forum did something similar with a Bose EQ, just a couple weeks or so ago. Just an FYI - you can copy and paste pictures directly into the text-entry box here on TCS, making the thread easy to read without linking images and lots of clicking. We LOVE pictures. 😉 Again, welcome to TCS!

Love the C-500. I have one, as well as a 4000t preamp. Great combo. Welcome to the site!

@Ray Cole, your owners manual is still available on Crutchfield.com in the drop-down for "What's in the Box" on the page you shared. Here's the direct link to the PDF of the owner's manual. https://pdf.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageBank/v20060406130800/Manuals/602/602SUS100B.PDF It includes diagrams. And from the specs, I see it only accepts LINE LEVEL (or LOW LEVEL) input - NOT speaker level - so you want to get an RCA Y-cable to split the pre-out, one "y" goes goes directly back into where the U-Jumper pulled out of, and the other "Y" goes to the RCA input of your sub. Examine the last diagram on page 5. You'll want to consider (map out) the female, mail connections for the Y cable, and for the joining cable to the sub. But from here you should be good to go - and yes, sketching it out helps before you buy a bunch of y-cables and RCA cables on Amazon... Hope that helps you.

i should add, also, that I'm assuming that your subwoofer is a powered subwoofer (has an internal plate amp). here's a diagram for a SPEAKER LEVEL or often called HIGH LEVEL method of connecting a subwoofer to the speaker outputs on your receiver. For a y-cable, using the PRE-OUTS, the best diagram I could come up with on the internet is this one..., (again, a better one might be in your subwoofer manual.) but in this figure, consider that the y cable would be in the Preamplifier...

Wwelcome to TCS. Glad you found us. The 742 is a nice receiver. There are so many ways to hook up a subwoofer, that subwoofer makers almost always document how in their Sub Woofer Owner's manual - that is to say, usually multiple options, outlined with diagrams and figures, that you then match to how your receiver outputs look. (If subwoofer manufacturers didn't do this, lots of subwoofers would be returned...,) - I know it's confusing, and linearly, we look at outputs and inputs, and look for the connections that way. And, subwoofers have multiple configuration options between manufacturers - so it's hard to give you an immediate answer. If your sub takes line-level input, many will just say "get a 'Y' cable and split your outputs - and on the 742, that involves pulling the jumpers off the back, and splitting, then re-connecting, with the Y cable. Those "horseshoe" in-n-out connectors take the pre-amplifier output, and direct it right back into the 742's Amplifier stage. Circled in red, below. AND, that is only one way. Your sub (I don't know what you have) may also take SPEAKER LEVEL input - (again, refer to your sub owners manual) in which you could send the speaker outputs directly into the subwoofer, then connect your speakers to the back of your sub - in the pass-through to allow the sub's crossover to pull off the low frequencies, and send only the higher frequencies to your JBLs. Again, I strongly recommend looking at the sub's owner's manual. If you have your subwoofer manual - check it out. If you don't

Welcome @MARQ528. Many of us here have that "pulled it out from the garage" story, and it sparks a renewed interest in OCCD ... OK, on the button - that has come up before - those little "caps" over the contact switch have little plastic parts hidden behind the faceplate that get brittle, and can allow the cover to pop off. I believe some have generated a 3D printer cap and then glued? it on or attached it somehow. I didn't do it, so I can't help with the printer-file. ...but you are on the right track.

Love the DR. 😉

And, if they are in rosewood finish !!, you have found a unicorn. My 2.5i pair are in piano black - with only one unnoticeable flaw in the left grill cover..., If they are in perfect condition, and all drivers are perfect, that's a good deal. Remember the trick to test tweeters..., bring with you a cardboard Paper Towel tube from your kitchen. Put one end up to the tweeter, and the other end, bring your best hearing ear to it, and it will isolate and direct the tweeter frequencies right into your ear in a way that somewhat filters what is coming out of the mid-ranges and low-range drivers..., not perfect - but it will tell you if a tweeter is blown (buzzing or not working at all) which when demoing for purchase, is about all you can do.

Welcome, Betty. Great to have you join TCS. How is the Potentiometer failing? What are the symptoms?

That's what I mounted to the wall - it takes some reinforcement, as Kallix are typical Ikea hollow honeycomb internal structural members..., and like to sit on the floor..., I went with the 2x2, to keep them manageable. Some that have the 2x6 or 2x8, or the massive 8x8 have found them to fail when overloaded (stuffed full) with vinyl. Pictures on the internet show some examples. However, for me, they work just fine!

It's a crazy dilemma. two of my local audio friends got in to the MoFi releases, early on..., and have purchased everyone. One of those guys then has the various original pressings..., from Japan, from Europe, etc of key albums, like DSOTM, Beatles classics, etc..., He swears he can tell the difference. I bought a few MoFi, but caught myself at the mental "budget" for that hobby (watching the frenzy of my two frendis)..., and that's when I got into Roon and streaming..., I haven't bought many records, since. 😉 I hope I have it nipped. LoL

I think it also is affected by the simple number of how many albums you have. while I like the record-shop bins, I have too many unless I had 6 or 7 of those, and the floor space for that many is just not available..., Some guys I know, put their less-used, but collected, albums in a closet, and never play them - that would work. Or another guy I know with too much money..., built a large room in his new house for storage, and his custom listening room has racks and racks built-in. For me, like @xavionics, I am too blind, and my bones are too old to get down on the floor - so I mounted Ikea Kalix shelving at eye level on the wall so I could see the end-labels on two rows of albums along the wall, at chest-to-forehead level for easy perusing. It was a little work, (had to engage support in the wall studs)..., but it looks great, was cheap (except for my labor and time to engineer it to "float". I think I posted a picture of it a few years back.

@Rob and I, as we walked around AXPONA a couple years ago, sat through one of these demos from a different supplier. We caught on that something was up..., The premise was that this "passive" device, when placed in the room, could do room correction of some kind, and improve the sound. The device was small, like a USB stick drive size, as I recall. The demo jock said he could take the unit out of the room, and the correction would stop, and the sound difference would be noticeable at the moment it left the room. we sat through that demo once..., and there was a subtle difference - but nothing spectacular. The audio system was a smallish remote-controlled non-branded (that I recall) integrated system, small enough to fit in a suitcase with the speakers. I caught on that a second player in the con was in the back of the room, arms folded..., and I noticed in his hand was a small remote control unit. I requested that guy, in the back of the room, to put the remote down on the floor, in front of the system they were playing music through. A look of "shock" and "we're busted flooded their face - their con had been exposed. They tried to continue with the lie of the con, saying "it will still make a difference..." They complied, and the other demo jock took the "component" which was not powered, no wires, not in the "chain" anywhere..., out of the room again, and this time, no sound change that we could tell. My conclusion is that the remote, operated by the quiet guy in the back corner of the room toggled on some "loudness" feature in the system that was playing the demo tracks, in synch with the con man that took the component out of the room. Con men are everywhere - it just takes common sense to see through it, and not get duped. But, then, cults of followers of this kind of snake oil are sucked into it every day..., and when a mark pays $3995 for something, expectation bias kicks in and they "believe" it works, and would rarely come out and risk their pride by admitting they had made a mistake and fell for the con. While his museum has no evidence, PT Barnum is credited with saying "a sucker is born every minute" - others with the sentiment also credited with this phrase include David Hannum, PT Barnum's critic, as well as the notorious Bunco Man, Joseph Lewis ("Hungry Joe") a gambler in the 1880's in several print references... The term applies to Audio, for sure! 😉

Do a search on eBay..., use the string "book matched burl veneer" Dozens of listings come up..., some very interesting burled examples as low as $20 (sizes may vary - not sure what you need). Many listings lay out a guitar-top shape (seems a common use or market). some of the guitar-top sellers are asking astronomical prices..., but some are more reasonable..., It's a great place to see LOTS of examples of different veneers. I love the marble wood and zebra wood examples, and while I like (and have purchased) walnut burls from eBay sellers, I find the most spectacular burled wood to be the redwood burls. Others really like the birds-eye maple burles... The size of the pieces offered do vary. If nothing else, it gives a lot of good ideas on what is available - for example...