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Status Updates posted by Joe C
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Looking for a remote for a “receiver 2000”. PM me if anyone has a working one to sell. Thanks
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Hey Joe. Just another heads up. The remotes for the receiver are pretty much like a gain control on the volume buttons. You have to still use the volume knob to control the sound level and then the remote will add or subtract so many decibels. It won't go from min. to max. I usually put electrical tape over the remote sensor while I work on them because my shop has florescence bulbs and it will make the receiver go crazy like Robert R said.
Good luck finding a remote. I am out of them.
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Thank you as well Rob. This is great info as well. I think perhaps I’ll pass on the remote. Not to mention there may be problems with that circuitry I’d have to deal with as well. I use to own a 2000 back in the 80’s. Totally forgot about that was how it was controlled. I’m also thankful for comment for refreshing the memory 😱
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Can anyone tell me, is there a way to calibrate the LED power meters on a MRX-130 or Receiver 2000? Is there a procedure I’m missing? Thank you guys in advance.
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MXR-130- I have an MXR-130 I’ve been trying to bring back operational and it looks like the last issue I’m having is when the FM is on and I press the asymmetrical noise reduction engage switch the, the FM goes extremely faint in the background and is totally distorted. The 4 hot resistors have been changed. I also noticed diodes D73-D76 are very hot. I’ve read about the hot resistors but don’t remember ever seeing anything about the diodes running hot. Any thoughts? Should I just replace the noise reduction board?
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@Rob, it was a bad chip (IC-801) on the FEQ-508 board dragging down the +\-16vdc rails. I replaced the board but it had an issue with the switching chip IC802. I swapped out the 801’s and it’s off to the races.
On a roll, found the trouble with the noise reduction board as well. Shorted filter cap either C111 or C112 was draggy down the +/-12 feeding the board. I removed both of them and it fired up. Have new ones in order.
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Can anyone offer some information, is there a reason signal wires are twisted onto board stakes vs being soldered.
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Thanks Rob. I’m not having an issue there, it’s in the board in general and I was going to change it out but it looks like it may be easier to remove the entire stake and re-solder vs pulling the front panel and everything associated with it to unsolder the grays. The other thought was to untwist those connections and solder them back to the new board.
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Anybody know if denatured alcohol can be used to clean smoke film from circuit boards and internal parts? Thanks
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Does anybody have a speaker selector knob for a MXR130 they would like to sell. Hit me up if so. Thanks
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If you cant find one Les @Circuits & Concepts has knobs. But they are not the same as the originals. They are aluminum and have a set screw.
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Hi guys, I had a couple pictures of my bias millivolts and where I took those readings. I can’t figure out how to upload the pics from my photos to the site. Can someone assist this possibly technology challenged soul lol? Thank you in advance.
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@Joe C You need to reach the rank of Novice. You're still an Inbound. I'll fix that.