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Carver repair team
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wrf last won the day on December 19 2019

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About wrf

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    TO-247L Transistor

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    Scottsdale, Arizona

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  1. They are a pain to take apart and a pain to put back together. So many itty bitty screws, all in tight places. And all that heat compound... Only amp that I know of where you have to shower after you get it apart.
  2. Santa has smiled on me with some Christmas Karma. I'll have a remote soon if I behave. Thank You Santa!!
  3. I've got a CT-7, but no remote. Anybody have an original remote (not a clone) they are willing to part with?
  4. The 8 caps in the middle are a bit tall and can contact the bottom cover. They all have clear plastic insulators on them, but those 8 get an extra rubber pad (not tape).
  5. My system has undergone considerable change in the past few months. Speakers, preamp, and amp. The only constant has been the Transporter and the Sunfire sub. Both amps deserve a careful listening session before I come to any conclusions. Informal listening reveals considerable difference between the two, but more time is needed. I'll post a serious comparison in a few weeks. I posted this thread because the BAT has such an overwhelming physical presence, particularly when warmed up. The pictures show this, but not nearly to the degree of actually being in the same room with this beast.
  6. Picked up an amp the other day. Sounds glorious on the Spatial Audio M-3 Turbos. Anybody recognize it? Also does a great job as a space heater.
  7. Saw TSO Sunday night in Phoenix. Awesome show. Heavy Metal Family Christmas Rock concert.
  8. Sorry to hear of your problems. I've done a number of M-1.0t mk II opt 2 upgrades. I found a lot of ways to screw them up, but once working properly, they all produced rated power until the dummy load resistors started to melt. And if the thump problem is bad enough to scare you and your dog, consider it a symptom of some other problem, not your normal annoying (but fixable) M-1.0t thump. Here are a few suggestions. 1. If its running out of gas at high power levels, there is likely a problem in the commutator circuits. Note that the high rail commutators are triggered by a single set of components. So a failure there will cause both channels to loose the benefits of the high rail commutator. Suggest you put a scope on emitter of Q139. (I'll use examples from the positive leg of the left channel, but you might want to look at both legs of both channels.). At idle the emitter should be at the middle rail voltage. As you apply an input signal you should see some gradual switching to the high rail. Use two channels of your scope. Trigger off the output of the amp. Use the second channel to watch the emitter. No need for a load at this point, the commutators will work without it. Its also educational to look at the collector of Q127. It should sit at the low rail voltage, rising as the signal requirements dictate. 2. Check switching diodes. Shorts/open/backward diodes cause all sorts of confusing symptoms. D125 thru D132. 3. You didn't mention if the loss of power was in one or both channels. That's an important clue. Loss of power in both channels is a strong indicator of a problem in the high rail switching since the control circuits are shared between channels. 4. Horrific thumps. Put a scope on the positive and negative side of each rail of the power supply. One at a time is OK. Turn the amp on and back off. Observe the decay time. If one drops like a rock while the other just drift down, it's a strong indicator of a short somewhere. Asymmetric decay of the supply voltages is the primary cause of thumps. Look at the 12v supply while you are at it. They too should drift down together. Note that the high rail switching transistors (Q139 - Q142) used in the mk II upgrade have been known to be counterfeited. They fail at the slightest provocation. Also, you must use the TIP35C/TIP36C. Not the TIP35/TIP36. Based on my experience the use of a mag coil instead of a real transformer is not the root of the problem. Please don't be offended by my suggestions that upgrade errors may be the source of the problems. I've done a lot of mk II upgrades and about the time I felt I could do no wrong was when I committed the most bone headed errors. Oh, and I think you are in Southern Arizona somewhere. I'm in Scottsdale. If these suggestions don't work out, I would be happy to take a look at the amp. Either ship it to me or stop by when you find yourself in Scottsdale. Good luck.
  9. One of my first attempts to replace the surrounds in a speaker resulted in a driver the barked. Voice coil was hitting the magnet under high excursion. Removed the surround and replaced it again, this time being obsessive about alignment. All was well after that.
  10. Here are a set from my stash. tube preamp schematic #4.pdftube preamp schematic #3.pdftube preamp schematic #2.pdftube preamp schematic #1.pdf You can also find them cleverly hidden in the preamp section under Sunfire. https://thecarversite.com/topic/14880-sunfire-vacuum-control-center-schematics/ Someday we may actually get the Sunfire schematics organized.
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