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Posts posted by Bean
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It’s stock. Haven’t got to mods yet.
And if I'm looking at this right it might be worse than what I have now...
AT11E
Frequency response: 15-25000Hz
Output: 4.8mV
Channel balance: 1.5dB
Stylus shape: 0.4 x 0.7 mil elliptical
Cantilever: thin wall
Tracking force: 1.5 to 2.5g
Cartridge weight: 5.5g
Replacement stylus assembly: ATS11E (green)
Carbon
Frequency response: 20 to 20,000Hz
Output voltage: 3.5mV
Channel balance: within 2.5dB
Stylus: 0.6 mil
Cantilever: carbon
Tracking force: 1.5 to 2.5g
Weight: 5.0g
Replacement stylus: ATN-91
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Ok guys, here is what I've got coming in to try. A buddy is giving me a Grado Carbon Cartridge with needle.
Here are the specs:
- Output: 2.5mV at 1kHz
- Stylus: User replaceable.
- Fixing: Standard, two screws
- Cantilever: Carbon
- Colour: Black/White
- Tracking Pressure 2-3g
Here are the specs of the AT11E for comparison
- Generating element: dual moving magnet
- Frequency response: 15-25000Hz
- Output: 4.8mV
- Channel balance: 1.5dB
- Stylus shape: 0.4 x 0.7 mil elliptical
- Stylus construction: bonded
- Cantilever: thin wall
- Tracking force: 1.5 to 2.5g
- Cartridge weight: 5.5g
So I'm wondering what I need to put the loading on the C-1 as, and also if spec wise how this compares to the others. I see differences in the numbers but dont know what that equates to honestly.
Once again the Turntable is a Techics SL-B3 and your help appreciated. -
As a FYI there is another member from here in your backyard (also in NC IIRC) Sea, who has also repaired ribbons in the past.
He uses a diff material but it’s been heard, touched and signed off in by Bob Carver.
Might be another option for you once they comeback
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5 hours ago, PDR said:
Heres when your TT was produced and approx what the retail price was when sold new....
That’s pretty cool info! Thanks!
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8 minutes ago, PhilDent said:
Mark, You've got me on pins and needles. What is the cartridge? I thought it was 7.62 x 54r, but the shape is wrong. Inquiring minds want to know.
Its what Mark uses to clean out his ears with instead of cutips ?- 1
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7 minutes ago, Rod H said:
Looks like an AT331E
Well I dug into my old posts (knew I mentioned it somewhere). Its a AT11E
Found that info here...... Wonder if its worth upgrading the cart or headshell or just leave it as is.... the TT works fine but dont want to put a lot of lipstick on a pig of a TT so to speak....
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Just now, pindrop said:
Hope you find out what AT it is but it's time for me to get some learnin'. I thought you could switch between the load settings at will until you find what sounds best? Glad I haven't hooked my table up yet...?
Maybe you can lol...... I haven't tried it since its working and from what I can tell I dont feel I'm "missing" anything...... It sounds DAMMMNED GOOD! I forgot how good OLD Vinyl sounds.....
This is the first time I've hooked this up in about 2 years since I didnt have a phono pre.......
I just felt like playing with this as my Tube Console will be mated with this TT later when I get it recapped and modded to accept a external TT (rather than the built in one), as well as add a line level input for a chromecast audio.... -
I’m running a Technics SL-B3 TT and need help identifying a cartridge. I don’t want to screw w removing it if I don’t have to.
Just trying to make sure I got the loading on my Carver C-1 right.
Ive got it hooked up to Phono 1 w the infrasonic filter engaged. Not a clue what loading to use for the cartridge so i think it’s set at the middle which I think is 140??
My system is a hodge lodge of a bunch of things right now.
The TT path is as follows
TT —> C-1 -> Anthem MRX 500 -> Soundstream D-1 monos -> AV123 ELT525T towers and a Polk MicroPro 2000 sub.
The rest of the gear bypasses the C-1 so it’s basixally a phono pre since my Anthem didn’t have a phono input. The Carvers volume is about 50% as Greg said that’s where it’s closest to perfect level wise (or I think he said that sometime lol).
At 50% I feel like it’s fine. I’ve got it really low on then Anthem right now and it’s perfect.
Listening to my Dads old LP collection!
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NO... NO PARTY BARN REFERENCES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Yeah, I miss mine.I cant wait till next April when I get to purchase the Salamander Synergy Triple Thirty system for my HT and if I'm lucky a single 30 or 40 for the loft too.
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If it were possible to reach through my internet connection and stab you in the kidneys.... I'd do itApologies, did not mean to piss you off. (want my kidneys functional till I go meet my maker!)LOL... not pissed off at all. Hopefully the implied sarcasm came through in the post hehehe....Nothing but love for my Carver bros.
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Damn it! Got a kids bday party on Sunday or I would be there!Does this help? (from CF2016).If it were possible to reach through my internet connection and stab you in the kidneys.... I'd do it
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Damn it! Got a kids bday party on Sunday or I would be there!
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Yup I had a 3490 at one point. No longer but I regret selling it.Nice piece of gear for a office system.
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I think what he meant is that the amps are located between/in the middle of the speakers, not inside them like a plate amp in a sub.I could understand the confusion there though lol.....I understood what he meant, I was merely pointing out that plate amps are protected from vibration and standard amps are not....Ahhh.... I gotcha, so it was I that mis understood.....
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Mine is a work in progress, it's a Salamander Archetype! BarryG
Barry, how easy are those wheels to pull? I cheaped out and got the regular black casters rather than those (cause they were about double the cost) but mine dont pull super easy. Might just be how much gear I have on it, but just curious how easy it is to move that rack.BTW Love my Archtype! I've debated buying a 30 to put on the other side and off set the shelves for more room for my gear... that or just buy 2 more poles & another shelf and make my own 2 section unit -
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Recently I moved my (2) M1.0s to a location between my speakers. My speakers each have dual side firing woofers but since amps are commonly located inside speakers, I really have no concern about the location.FWIW, amps located inside subwoofer cabinets are often conformal coated, which dramatically helps secure the parts to the PCB, helping to alleviate vibration damage. My Sunfire TSW also has a lot of hot glue on the larger components. The M1.0ts usually have a little glue on the large caps, but the rest of the board is not protected from vibration.
I think what he meant is that the amps are located between/in the middle of the speakers, not inside them like a plate amp in a sub.
I could understand the confusion there though lol.....- 1
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Awesome book!Love some Sci Fi!
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Hitting the thrifts this sunday to see if I can improve my collection from 1 to 2 or maybe 3 records LOL
I'm the same way. I've got a little bit here and there.... but this is where I have a problem.I've amased a VERY LARGE collection of digital, and I dont want to have to re-buy it on LP's. That and the added maintenance for me at least mean its not my primary listening. Its a "nostalgia" kinda thing I will pull out once in a while.Maybe someday when I am more dedicated to audio I will dive into LP's. But for now I will sit on my smartphone and queue up a bunch of songs from different CD's and switch between them while sitting in my computer chair drinking diet mountain dew, not getting up. -
I rue the day Beats bought MOG.... MOG was my thing.... I'm still rocking my 60 day free trial of Beats, but once it becomes pay to play, I may switch to Spotify......Didn't know Amazon streamed music. May have to check that out too. Though I think Spotify is what I want (Squeezebox compatible).Be interested in your thoughts....
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That SC-35 looks BOSS!!!!
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So funny story here folks....I am all digital. However I find that honestly unless you have really good gear and really good ears the difference in high rez starts to blend together the higher the bitrate.My DacMagic automatically upsamples everything I send it and thats enough for me.I used to try and stay digital till I hit the pre-amp, but its just not easy to do anymore. So I find that once you have a decent DAC that can play your music right, just stop. Keep the rest analog and just get decent cables.I dont download high-rez stuff because its more expensive than the physical CD (which is then ripped to FLAC) and is still NOT ALWAYS actually high rez.Besides lets be honest, most music that is popular today has a MUCH more pressing issue than its bitrate - compression/dynamic rage or lack there of.If I am gonna listen to some Skrillex, Deadmau5, etc, the music is already compressed as a source file. The bitrate cant really help with that so why spend more for it.Besides buying the Cd is cheaper, you get a physical copy on top of the digital one as well.Plus I see no point in rebuying my existing library in a higher bitrate....But thats just me.I will say though that digital is here to say as its MUCH easier to transport music between devices and I plan to stay digital with no CDP at all, and just my TT for the older stuff I already have. I dont go out of my way for LP's at all but if I find some I will take em lol....
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I'm all in digital.I have a Squeezebox Touch Classic downstairs to stream music to my AVR (Integra DTR 5.9) to my Carver amps (AV-705x & M1.0t). Also have a WD Live TV + 3TB external hard drive with all my movies on it so I can watch em w/o getting up....I use XBMC upstairs to play the same music to my DacMagic to a Sunfire TGP-II to my Parasound HCA-750ii.I've built a couple HTPC's for folks and had one myself I had to pay (tax man wanted his money lol).... but been around the block quite a bit.What you wanna know about the digital stuff, seems like you've got a decent handle on things. Best suggestion, make sure your source files are as good as you can get. Gear cant make it sound better than it starts out with....
Help Identify this cartridge!
in Vinyl
Posted
I will once it arrives :).