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Bonzoro

WTB, M1.0t (Non Inv)

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Looking for a M1.0t Non Inverting with Mono/Stereo switch on back. Let me know if you have one for sale. No problem if it needs paint or Face Plate (it doesn't even need to work for that matter). Thanks

 

Perry

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Scored a pair for my project. Got parts on order. Should be fun with a pair of 1000 Watt amps in the Living room.  They will get the MKII  and Opt2 treatment.  I may be looking for a different pair of speakers this winter. The CornScala's can't handle anything near that.  I'll have to mull that over. 

 

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As efficient as Klipsch speakers are and with 1000+w amps driving them, you'd be looking at jet engine takeoff decibel levels. :D 

 

ROCK ON!

 

I hope the neighborhood likes your taste in music!

 

Once you get done with the amp upgrades, would you mind posting the power output in bridged mode? I don't recall reading that info on C!

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12 hours ago, Sk1Bum said:

you'd be looking at jet engine takeoff decibel levels. :D 

 

I'm running two sets of Klipsch Cornwall II's with the amps in my avatar;  Long before the speakers would be able to dissipate that much energy, the drivers could reach max displacement and tear themselves apart; probably before that the lacquer on the voice coils would melt (about 200°C).  Long before that, you'd run into thermal dynamic compression.  The loudest I've had them (years ago) was just a bit over 125dB.

 

12 hours ago, Sk1Bum said:

Once you get done with the amp upgrades, would you mind posting the power output in bridged mode? I don't recall reading that info on C!

 

Opt 002, and bridging were intended for low sensitivity speakers (84-88 dB/w/m or so) that need additional voltage to produce higher SPL.  I didn't spec the bridged mode value because it's not really a number game.  Ultimately, the voltage level that can be available at the load depends on the load's reactivity.  OPT 002 will help prevent the load from sagging the rails as much, but it will still sag somewhat.

 

If you need a bridged spec, for some reason, I think I remember getting about 1280 watts into a static 8Ω dummer load

 

 

Edited by RichP714
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I was just being silly, Rich, and I am just curious as to the output. I've not seen it here before.

 

Thank you for the link!

 

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32 minutes ago, Sk1Bum said:

I was just being silly, Rich, and I am just curious as to the output. I've not seen it here before.

 

Thank you for the link!

 

 

No Problem; I also think it may be 1080 into 8 (for some reason, the '80 sticks in my head) so I wouldn't rely on my memory.

 

It's very hard for me to determine when somebody is speaking in jest;

 

e.g. I provide foaming hand soap and a few other maitri products for a local integrative care facility; I was talking last week with one of the front desk employees about one of our products that they don't carry, and happen to mention that if she asked 'Stevie' the place might carry it, or else she could get some at our website, but I couldn't tell Stevie what to carry.   Stevie turned around and said "But you do".....I felt horrible, and started a self effacing apology; as it turns, she was only teasing me.

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14 hours ago, Sk1Bum said:

As efficient as Klipsch speakers are and with 1000+w amps driving them, you'd be looking at jet engine takeoff decibel levels. :D 

 

ROCK ON!

 

I hope the neighborhood likes your taste in music!

 

Once you get done with the amp upgrades, would you mind posting the power output in bridged mode? I don't recall reading that info on C!

 

 

I thought I read somewhere it was 1000 in bridged but It's up there for sure.  I don't think my  AP Portable One Plus will go that high (It say's 140 VRMS) and I'd run that not only into the P1P but also my James Bongiorno Load bank in parallel. I wouldn't run it straight into the P1P.  I have contemplated getting a Watt Meter like we used in the Navy to check the output of the HF Radios (like I need more test equipment). 

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If memory serves me (Yeah right!!!), I think Bob Crites rates these CornScala's at 128dB sensitivity (@1 watt @ 1 Meter) so putting this kind of power would not only render you DEEF but probably Blind too :)

 

I know I can't twist the WOPL very far to the right until the windows rattle and the dogs head for the backyard.  Fun Project though. Yup, maybe an old set of Sansui 8800's or something.  

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11 minutes ago, Bonzoro said:

I thought I read somewhere it was 1000 in bridged but It's up there for sure

 

The stock rating is 1000W into 8Ω.  I thought the question was with regard to the mk II opt 002 mod, sorry.

 

11 minutes ago, Bonzoro said:

  I have contemplated getting a Watt Meter like we used in the Navy to check the output of the HF Radios (like I need more test equipment). 

 

Those RF power meters aren't very accurate, although they have very high power ratings.  You'd probably get a more accurate result with a voltmeter and p=e2/r

 

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3 minutes ago, RichP714 said:

 

The stock rating is 1000W into 8Ω.  I thought the question was with regard to the mk II opt 002 mod, sorry.

 

 

Those RF power meters aren't very accurate, although they have very high power ratings.  You'd probably get a more accurate result with a voltmeter and p=e2/r

 

 

 

Yer right Rich, don't pay no mind to me. I did read it was 1000 bridged and didn't take in to account the Upgrading. I guess it won't matter much if I can't use that power OR MEASURE it.   :)

 

 

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I've tried using the opt002 in bridge mode. It got scary loud but I didn't like the sound quality or sound stage. It changes the imaging somehow when bridged. Believe me it will give you more than enough volume without bridging. I'm laughing right now because I know you're going to have to try it for yourself like I did. LMAO

 

Good luck and be careful. Your ears will be ringing before you realize it.

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8 hours ago, Maddmaster said:

I've tried using the opt002 in bridge mode. It got scary loud but I didn't like the sound quality or sound stage. It changes the imaging somehow when bridged. Believe me it will give you more than enough volume without bridging. I'm laughing right now because I know you're going to have to try it for yourself like I did. LMAO

 

Good luck and be careful. Your ears will be ringing before you realize it.

 

This 'phenomenon' is not unique to the 'mkII opt002', and it isn't even unique to Carver. When bridging a stereo amp you are effectively halving the load impedance, so if you're driving a 4 ohm nominal load it looks like a 2 ohm load to the amp. This means that when you start hammering your amps to see how loud they will get bridged, they will struggle to source the current required to maintain E=IR, especially into difficult loads.

 

Maddmaster - I'm not picking on you, I'm not trying to make you look bad, I'm not trying to be arrogant, I'm not making an example of you, I'm not attacking you personally - I'm clarifying and broadening your experience so that others understand more clearly what is going on especially because it is related to more than just personal experience.

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@Maddmaster @Nahash5150 Dom has mentioned this before about the sound stage changing when using amps in bridge mode. I haven’t listened to amps long enough in bridge mode to determine that for myself but I believe it........grin

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@Nahash5150, no clarification needed on my part. I didn’t take it personal. You really supported the point I probably wasn’t clear on. I enjoy listening using the normal (unbridged) mode. It was something I just had to try once. Lol

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Thank you all for this conversation. I ran my HT with 5 stock M1.0ts bridged and while it got scary loud, it was never good for music. Changing to 3 amps, one bi-wire for the center, and stereo for front and rear improved the music reproduction and sound quality in general from that system substantially. Now I know why. 

 

Now to get Bonzoro's thread completely off track-or maybe bring it back, will power steering be a better option than bridging for his Cornscalas?

Edited by Sk1Bum
speeeling
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Easy enough to flip the switch and move the speaker wires. Gotta try it though right?   Good info for sure.  :)

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2 hours ago, Sk1Bum said:

Thank you all for this conversation. I ran my HT with 5 stock M1.0ts bridged and while it got scary loud, it was never good for music. Changing to 3 amps, one bi-wire for the center, and stereo for front and rear improved the music reproduction and sound quality in general from that system substantially. Now I know why. 

 

I am in the process of running my HT with an M1.5t for the front left/right, and 5 - M200t's for the individual surround speakers and center channel.  I did it because I thought it would be cool and I would have balanced (the same) watts/channel for each speaker and have plenty of power for the movies, concerts, and games.  I am curious now to hear how it sounds but I still have construction and amplifier work to do.........grin. 

Edited by Dadvw
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Anybody ever put a pair of volume controls on one of these???   I know it's probably sacrilege to some of you but I like to get my preamps into the sweet spot on the volume knob (Hence my EZ Gain Board).  I spent a lot of time to find the quietest settings on the preamp and sometimes I need to turn down the amplifier to find it.    It's a give and take at times.  Even my WOPL's I don't keep wide open. The 9 O'clock position produce great results and gets that preamp into the "SS".

 

Constructive PLEASE

 

 

 

The PL's use a pair of 100K pots but I know the Carvers may take 50's (or ???).   I'll hide them inside and it will be accessible with a tweaker through a pair of tiny holes in the side. "Usually", once I get them set, I don't have to monkey with the settings. 

Edited by Bonzoro
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3 minutes ago, Nahash5150 said:

Just use a passive preamp.

Nope, got a fully worked C1 all ready.

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2 hours ago, Bonzoro said:

Anybody ever put a pair of volume controls on one of these??? 

Thought about it but for my application it would have meant drilling the face. Couldn't figure out a way to make that look good. For your need it should be pretty straightforward. If youre worried about excessive loading, you could add a buffer stage. That means hanging an opamp off the  +/-12V supplies which should be OK. The m1.0t has better 12V regulation than most.  

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Using a passive preamp is no different than adding a potentiometer at the input of the amp. It's just a variable resistor - no op-amps. You can get super fancy passives that will blow away any knob you install into the amp, and be able to use a remote control. It's an obvious choice if you want to control the gain after your 'sweet spot' on the preamp.

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