RBQ 62 Posted February 28, 2022 Share Posted February 28, 2022 Found this Carver C9 at an estate sale today in Denton on their last day of the sale with everything was 75% off. Found the set up manual & sales broacher in a pile of manuals. I figured for parts it was worth ten bucks just because it looked cool. Testing it today in my garage it made my cheap old stereo, sound like one of those small Bose wave CD players. It sure is heavily built! Took pics of the inside & thought I'd share with any beginner like me. 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4krow 3,868 Posted February 28, 2022 Share Posted February 28, 2022 I am guessing that the serial number is between 6,000 and 7,000. That seems to be when the new SH circuit was being switched into the old rack mount chassis. What do you plan to do with it? It is an easy recommendation to change out all of the electrolytic capacitors. This unit was likely built around 1983-4, meaning that the caps are overdue for changeout. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBQ 62 Posted February 28, 2022 Author Share Posted February 28, 2022 Yeah your right. the SN is 6454. I just got done recapping a M1.5t so i might wait just a bit on recapping this since I couldn't get it to crackle snap & pop . I'll have to do some reading up on this thing. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewJohn 6,315 Posted February 28, 2022 Share Posted February 28, 2022 That was a score! $10 ! good find. You were at the right place at the right time. There's one on Ebay right now, stock, with box, and manual, for $125. Nice! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ar9Jim 3,863 Posted February 28, 2022 Share Posted February 28, 2022 C-9 was the largest volume and most profitable of the Carver product line. 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4krow 3,868 Posted February 28, 2022 Share Posted February 28, 2022 When you do decide to recap this unit, you will find that the LED is secured by a large amount of silicone to the chassis. Lately, I have found it to be simpler to just cut the LED leads and replace it too. Most of the time, the silicone has an iron grip on everything. I have seen many of these units opened up but the curious person was stooped right there by the silicone. You can tell pretty much by the fact that the screws for the cover are almost always left loose by whoever took a look inside, and sometimes even the screws for the circuit board are loose too. Last note of observation is about the ads where the unit was claimed to have been serviced, yet the silicone is still intact! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBQ 62 Posted March 2, 2022 Author Share Posted March 2, 2022 Thank you Greg. Appreciate all the points. Make this a fun hobby learning about this equipment plus the listening pleasure. I saw this faceplate Kit on eBay. Just wondering if anyone has purchased one of these remanufactured faceplates. I like the handles and it would match my Phase Linear stuff better. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carver-C-9-Faceplate-BLACK-with-Handles-Spacers-Hardware-/143482755386?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewJohn 6,315 Posted March 2, 2022 Share Posted March 2, 2022 I have. It is nice. fits nicely in the rack and stack matching other black-faced gear. Be forewarned, though..., it will only fit on a C-9 with rack-mount slots..., and only on certain production runs. It won't fit the non-rack-eared C-9's. I think the seller even indicates this in the ad on Ebay. You have the cover off of yours, send a PM to the Ebay seller, and ask him how to know for sure if it will fit on your model. It's not a whole lot of $ to invest to try - and if you are good with fabrication, you may be able to get anything to work... 😉 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4krow 3,868 Posted March 2, 2022 Share Posted March 2, 2022 (edited) Yah, AJ is correct, it wasn't made for the second edition (non rack mount) of the C-9. Funny thing is, w/o modification (drilling an extra set of holes in the C-9 chassis) it won't fit most rack mount models. There are only a very few C-9 units made that will line up with the faceplate. It is of little concern though, since all that you have to do is drill two additional holes in the front of the unit. The new faceplate will fit just fine then. One final note: The handles do not go on easily to the face plate. They are a tiny bit spaced wide for the holes. Again, no problem, here what you do to compensate. I have a wooden jawed vise that I use during assembly. First put one bolt through the hole in through the faceplate and thread it into the handle about 2 threads. Lay the faceplate facing down on top of the vise jaws allowing the handle to be held in place. Next, apply a small amount of pressure to 'adjust' the handle to the correct spacing for the holes. It is a very small amount, so don't worry. You can then put the second bolt through the faceplate and begin to thread it in with maybe some more pressure from the vise jaws. It is actually easier than it sounds. And I left out the washers made for handles on purpose, because you will be adding them as you go along. It just made more explanation for the procedure. Edited March 2, 2022 by 4krow more info 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZappaPatton 696 Posted March 2, 2022 Share Posted March 2, 2022 Would it show if you ovaled the holes instead? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4krow 3,868 Posted March 2, 2022 Share Posted March 2, 2022 (edited) Yes, the same result could be accomplished. And no, the holes wouldn't show as long as the supplied washers were able to cover them. They are beveled and are included just to make the assembled part look a bit better. Wish that they were metal though. My experience is that Murphey's law will guide my Dremel in a really bad direction. The first one that I did a Dremel was the way it was done. I had to enlarge the holes more than I thought. Even though it isn't much, I chose the latter method the next time and saved time/grief. Edited March 2, 2022 by 4krow 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
69Chevelle 297 Posted March 2, 2022 Share Posted March 2, 2022 Looking at the stamp on the brochure, Bitburg Audio Photo Club, I am wondering if this unit was purchased in Bitburg Germany from the Air Force BX exchange there. Either way, great score and enjoy the tinkering. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4krow 3,868 Posted March 2, 2022 Share Posted March 2, 2022 I would say that there is a good chance of that, because the unit has a 110v-220v switch inside it. From my experience these came from BX overseas. It is hard to tell exactly but in one of the photos, I might be seeing the edge of a sticker that was put on the bottom of these units saying something about the voltage change being possible, but only by a qualified tech. Did I understand it correctly that this unit has no top? That is easier to make for this unit than the non rack ear model. If you have a metal brake and a reasonable small sheet of steel, you might be able to nail down exactly where to make each bend. This could be a fun project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBQ 62 Posted March 2, 2022 Author Share Posted March 2, 2022 It had the top and I have that sticker in an envelope that was in the user/owners manual. I just took the top off to see the secret stuff inside. That’s why I called it naked. That’s for everyone’s info. The location in Germany answered that mystery of where it came from too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4krow 3,868 Posted March 2, 2022 Share Posted March 2, 2022 I am very glad that you shared this. For me, it is just fun to look and maybe even get some history. It may or may not have day of inspection on the inside and to the right of the circuit board. Usually Magic Marker. I refer to yours as a transitional unit because it has the old rack ear chassis with the new circuit board design. Fortunately, when you need the use of a parts locator and schematic from this site, it will be in reference to this circuit board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewJohn 6,315 Posted March 3, 2022 Share Posted March 3, 2022 3 hours ago, RBQ said: That’s why I called it naked. "naked pictures," or "nudies"..., anything with the "top off" is good for this site... Nudies of your Carver Gear..., 😉 of course. LoL BTW, regarding the C-9, how does it sound? Have you fallen in love with Sonic Holography? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBQ 62 Posted March 3, 2022 Author Share Posted March 3, 2022 Yes. I have a cheap 1990’s Sony stereo in my shop that I was using to initially test it and it made that thing sound amazing. I’m finishing up a M1.5t and plan to use that with the C9 to drive my Bose 901s. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertR 839 Posted March 3, 2022 Share Posted March 3, 2022 It Occurs To Me... Using a C-9 with Bose 901s is the logical equivalent to wearing a high-tech raincoat in the Sahara. RR 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBQ 62 Posted March 19, 2022 Author Share Posted March 19, 2022 (edited) New eBay faceplate install was very simple as previously mentioned Edited March 19, 2022 by RBQ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertR 839 Posted March 20, 2022 Share Posted March 20, 2022 RBQ – I didn't mean to turn you off with my pithy comment two weeks ago, but somebody needed to make the point about Sonic Holography and Bose. They are utterly incompatible. I hoped others would chime in, but eerie silence followed. Glad you're still with us. Back in the late '70s, when I had 901 Series 5s, the slogan from Bose was, “Stereo Everywhere”. It would have been more accurate to have said, “Crappy Semi-Stereo Everywhere”. I learned all this after I got my first Carver piece, a C-1, in 1984. With all the time-confusion of that deliberately reflected sound, Sonic Holography, which employs precise phase cancellation, was rendered dysfunctional, at best. SH abhors early reflected sound. The Bose had no real listener 'sweet spot'. That was an advantage for group listening – everybody had pretty much the same experience. Adding Sonic Holography will make things sound somewhat different, especially in some locations, but not really better, anywhere. Better, for me, came when I sprung for a pair of the first Carver Silver Amazings. MUCH better. Use the 901s for parties, where they can provide a festive mood that nobody seriously listens to. They are fine for that. But for serious music listening by one person, for really getting into the sonic envelope and the imaging that exists on a good stereo recording, properly set up* SH with just about any other decent speakers is clearly superior, albeit physically restricting. Get some normally directional speakers and give that nicely restored C-9 a chance to show what it can do. RobertR * 'Properly set up' means: Positioned away from walls, especially side walls, or any other reflective surfaces. A lot closer together than for normal stereo placement. Channels precisely equidistant from the listener, who is best positioned at least a foot in front of any rear wall. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4krow 3,868 Posted March 20, 2022 Share Posted March 20, 2022 The chassis that you have is a rare one indeed. Very few had the extra set of holes. Yes, that would be about the easiest replacement that could be done. Did you say that you would be replacing electrolytic caps as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBQ 62 Posted March 21, 2022 Author Share Posted March 21, 2022 I don’t think so yet. It’s working flawlessly at the moment and I just got done reworking the power board on my M1.5t so enjoying everything for now. I have a C4000 that’s been collecting dust for a few years that I would like to get going to play with and for a back up if I need to work on my current preamp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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