zumbini 6,092 Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 I hate to keep harping on cabling but I'd run an open cable tray behind the bottom of the screen to collect the wiring. Then I'd add a vertical section of phone cable duct from the cable tray to floor level for a nice clean look. Phone cable duct is available in lots of colors and is relatively inexpensive and easy to install. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene C 1,742 Posted January 4, 2013 Author Share Posted January 4, 2013 Opps sorry guys. When everything gets put together you wont see any wires. Remember, the wife hates to see wires. Just was happy to get the TV up on the wall. The wires will be fed through flexible conduit, so i can still get at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingman 658 Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 Well Gene...saving the best for last...I LOVE IT!!!! The 4 silver 7's look right at home and I can second the cable maze you have behind the system. I have a problem with that also! (but getting better)!!! Great system man!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PDR 1,189 Posted January 5, 2013 Share Posted January 5, 2013 Man.....Gene that looks Sweet! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene C 1,742 Posted January 5, 2013 Author Share Posted January 5, 2013 Thanks guys! Spending the rest of the night breaking in the new headgear before the WA6 tube amp shows up. Am using my CT-17 in the mix now for a headphone amp, who knows it may stay in the lineup and be the Kappa 9's PA for stereo listening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maddmaster 936 Posted January 5, 2013 Share Posted January 5, 2013 Opps sorry guys. When everything gets put together you wont see any wires. Remember, the wife hates to see wires. Just was happy to get the TV up on the wall. The wires will be fed through flexible conduit, so i can still get at it. Sounds like you plan to hide the wires behind the equipment once the new stand arrives. I would suggest installing an AC outlet in the wall behind the Flatscreen. For the Cables I would cut a hole in the sheet rock behind the Screen and one just below it close to the floor. Fish all the signal cables from the screen to the outlet hole at the bottom. Then they really are never seen. So far you are looking good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene C 1,742 Posted January 5, 2013 Author Share Posted January 5, 2013 Opps sorry guys. When everything gets put together you wont see any wires. Remember, the wife hates to see wires. Just was happy to get the TV up on the wall. The wires will be fed through flexible conduit, so i can still get at it. Sounds like you plan to hide the wires behind the equipment once the new stand arrives. I would suggest installing an AC outlet in the wall behind the Flatscreen. For the Cables I would cut a hole in the sheet rock behind the Screen and one just below it close to the floor. Fish all the signal cables from the screen to the outlet hole at the bottom. Then they really are never seen. So far you are looking good. Would like to do that but there are two problems with that. Would need longer cables to be able to pull the cabinet away from the wall, for adding or removing components. And the major problem is there are 5 horizontal 2x4's that run behind the wall there. The main bathrooms shower is behind that wall, maybe that has something to do with it. When i tried dropping the surround wires from the attic down that wall 2 years ago, i found they were only going down about 2 or 3 ft before they would land on the first horizontal board. Thought WTF? Never have seen that before. After about 30 mins of defeat, got the stud finder out and found out i would need to go over 6 more feet to the right from the center wall to avoid that whole nightmare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene C 1,742 Posted January 12, 2013 Author Share Posted January 12, 2013 That was probably the most difficult cabinet to put together. Was not at all expecting to stay up till 12:30 last night doing that. Well its done. Spent this morning hooking everything back up. In one of the photos you'll notice the corner braces for the shelf. All of them needed to be measured out and tightened to the desired height. That took most of my time laying or kneeling on the tile floor last night. Wife was really staying clear of me last night. Right on top where the CT-17 is, that is where the WA6 will be planted on Monday. Will start a photo chain on the system then, hardly anything left from the original system. Enjoy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zumbini 6,092 Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 The cabinet looks fantastic Gene. Shows off the electronics even when the doors are closed. Looks a lot cleaner too now that most of the monitor cables are routed together and hidden. Did you put furniture glides on the feet so you can move it out from the wall without a winch? Will the open back supply enough ventilation to keep everything cool with the doors closed? ENJOY THE MUSIC! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene C 1,742 Posted January 12, 2013 Author Share Posted January 12, 2013 The cabinet looks fantastic Gene. Shows off the electronics even when the doors are closed. Looks a lot cleaner too now that most of the monitor cables are routed together and hidden. Did you put furniture glides on the feet so you can move it out from the wall without a winch? Will the open back supply enough ventilation to keep everything cool with the doors closed? ENJOY THE MUSIC! Thanks Dom! Yeah i didn't want to do anything with the monitor cables till the cabinet showed up. I know the previous pictures (once the monitor was hung) the loose monitor cables were causing some blood curdling on the site. Was testing the wife too. I did leave the back exposed, didn't have enough room with the cables and all. Strangely enough what i thought was tinted glass on the doors is actually perforated metal painted black. It gets allot more ventilation than the other cabinet. The drawback is the remote wont work well unless the cabinet is open. Otherwise midway between the couch and cabinet is ok, it gets the signal then. Have had to put foam strips between the shelf and side of cabinet. Had some serious rattle on low freq. Was freaked out, had spent some time a couple weeks ago with a bass sampler CD i borrowed from my brother to eliminate all the noise in the living room. Pictures in the hall, anything that hung on the wall, light fixtures, everything got padded and tweaked. Then heard that rattle Not in my house fucker! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nahash5150 9,362 Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 A true inspiration Gene. Very, very nice. Looks like your M200t is gunna need a blue LED mod too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveFord 1,054 Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 Yeah, that looks great. I think you may have enough firepower in that cabinet to blow up just about anything! Say, do you have a decent FM college station or two within a 50 or 75 mile radius? If so, I've a suggestion that may interest you... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene C 1,742 Posted January 12, 2013 Author Share Posted January 12, 2013 A true inspiration Gene. Very, very nice. Looks like your M200t is gunna need a blue LED mod too. Thanks Greg. LOL! You think? Whad be trick is to have some led meters on that thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene C 1,742 Posted January 12, 2013 Author Share Posted January 12, 2013 Yeah, that looks great. I think you may have enough firepower in that cabinet to blow up just about anything! Say, do you have a decent FM college station or two within a 50 or 75 mile radius? If so, I've a suggestion that may interest you... Thanks Steve. Ive often been told i had a disc jockeys voice. Have perfected it throughout the years being on the phone at work i guess. You telling me i could give ASU a run for their money Steve? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveFord 1,054 Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 Actually, I was thinking more along the lines of getting one of these old suckers find an electronics repair shop that his been in business forever, have them go over it and use that with your WA6 and DT880s. I think you will be quite pleased. Be forewarned, old Sherwoods are an addiction like you can't imagine. I never used to listen to the radio before. Now I listen to it around 75% of the time when I have a stereo turned on. Like right now, for instance. SRV is really going to town on a blues show. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene C 1,742 Posted January 12, 2013 Author Share Posted January 12, 2013 Wow! That thing has 50's written all over it. Im sure that thing sounds sweet! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene C 1,742 Posted January 12, 2013 Author Share Posted January 12, 2013 YES! My Logitech remote works just fine through that steel screen on the cabinet. Guess the Sunfire remote didn't like it? Hmmm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveFord 1,054 Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 Yeah, they're pretty old. They kept making running changes and my S3000-III, IV and V and are all stereo but the S3000-III is supposed to be mono! They went stereo probably 1962/3 or so, 1966/7 they went transistor and in the 70s they began the horrible slide into overseas production and eventual garbagehood. The best news is that they're not that expensive (usually 50-75 bucks on eBay) and an alignment and going over should run another 100 or so. What you'll end up with is one of the best sounding components you'll ever own, irregardless of price. RodH got me started on tube tuners and then doug s. on AudioCircle got me hooked on Sherwoods. I'll relay a success story today: my S3000-V had a really annoying distortion in stereo until it warmed up and a new tube didn't cure it. I got a can of spray chill from my radio repair shop, removed the bottom cover and let it warm up until the distortion was gone. I started giving things a schpritz until the distortion came back and it was only a solder joint for a resistor. Easy fix for me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zumbini 6,092 Posted January 13, 2013 Share Posted January 13, 2013 A true inspiration Gene. Very, very nice. Looks like your M200t is gunna need a blue LED mod too. Thanks Greg. LOL! You think? Whad be trick is to have some led meters on that thing. In the 70's I had an small LED meter bridge for my meter-less Pioneer SA-8800 integrated amp. Gave it away to a friend along with the amp and have been looking for a replacement ever since. Logitek makes a couple of stand-alone meters but the displays are narrow and they are very expensive! Maybe one of these Nixie IN-9 kits would do the trick (about $160)? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nahash5150 9,362 Posted January 13, 2013 Share Posted January 13, 2013 omg - I could make an led meter but that would be lots o time... if I weren't so busy I'd try it. Perhaps in a couple of years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene C 1,742 Posted January 13, 2013 Author Share Posted January 13, 2013 It would be the "Mini Me" of the M-4.0t. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nahash5150 9,362 Posted January 13, 2013 Share Posted January 13, 2013 Cheesey! Change the LEDs to 3mm and after GENE drills the holes, I'll mount it in and make the connections. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene C 1,742 Posted January 13, 2013 Author Share Posted January 13, 2013 Cheesey! Change the LEDs to 3mm and after GENE drills the holes, I'll mount it in and make the connections. If your up for it? My buddy has a CNC shop here in town, could have him machine the holes. I have that other M-200t, could use the face on that one. Maybe see about the faceplate getting changed to the black anthracite then having him silkscreen on the center Carver M-200t and maybe your name under it "Greg G Mod" or "Nahash Mod" Would send the other M-200t to you with the moded faceplate. And then when they are put together maybe Rich might be up for testing them for a sonic comparison if he has time? On the led mod though....wondering if it would be better to mount the board somewhere in the amp and run wires to the LED's? Thats a short faceplate and that board looks kinda long. If its doable around your schedule Greg you just say the word and ill get the ball rolling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nahash5150 9,362 Posted January 13, 2013 Share Posted January 13, 2013 LOL! That would be awesome. I'll have to get that board that Rod suggested (or something like it) and test it before we do any drilling. Why don't we throw in a chrome toggle switch for the on/off? Now that'd be pimp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nahash5150 9,362 Posted January 13, 2013 Share Posted January 13, 2013 I'm game! Thanks MahaRahuRod! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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