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Zoom's System

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20130527150709887.jpg 

 The Chain:

Digital Source: None.

    

    

Analog Source:  Left side rack;  Carver CT-17 fed by various A/V sources:  Panasonic 60" TV, Sony Blue Ray w/WiFi, XBox 360 w/Windows Media Center w/wifi, Apple TV w/ Remote App on my Itouch (I can control all of my ITunes library (on my pc across the house) input to the CT-17 from my pocket within my network), 300 disc Sony, kids' Sony dvd/vhs player.  All placed in a rack on the left side.  Feeding......  

    

    

Other Sources:  Right side rack: A Carver C-11: Fed by the CT-17 (video input) and a Carver SD/A 390t Carver tube disc changer (CD input) (housed in the left side rack).

    

    

Signal Processors: None.  Straight and true.

    

    

Pre Amp: Previously mentioned.

    

    

Power Amps:  2 x Carver m-200t, Caver m-400t, Carver m-500t, Carver m-1.0t, Carver TFM-35, 2 x Carver PM-1200.  3 x Marantz MA-500 mono-block for center/surround.

    

    

Speakers:  Main fronts: 2 pair Cerwin Vega AT-10, 1 Pair Cerwin Vega AT-12, 1 pair DCM Time Frame 600.  Center Channel DCM KX-10.  Rears: Carver wall mount.

    

    

Subwoofer: 2 X SW-12 Cerwin Vega (coffee tables?), 2 x EV s181 (fifth-order enclosures)

    

    

Speaker Cables: most are basic. well cared for 12 guage (I use deoxit 100), also 1 pair Audio Quest CV-4.

    

    

Interconnects: Straight Wire;  Laser-Link and Rhapsody

    

    

Power Cables: 2 x Dedicated 12/3 circuits w/ 20 amp breakers straight from my breaker box.

    

    

Headphones/Amp: None

    

    

System Rack:  Identical Sauter wood racks, left and right side

    

    

Power Conditioning:  Monster Power HTS 3500 for most components.  The PM-1200s I segregate to their own ADC Power strip on the other breaker.

    

    

Tuning and Tweaks:  I renovated a dedicated room with a concrete floor and back wall, approx 25'X25'. I use EV's active crossover before the PM1200s.  The crossover has an 18db/octave bump at 25 htz which is a good thing because the EV cabs are not tuned for under 50 hz, I just force them to do so, with a vengeance. While I have tried to kill my first Carvers at 4 ohms, I have each channel at a 8 or 6 ohm nominal load, for 'Max Headroom'.  To do this the CV SW-12s are DVC drivers, so I split a left signal to both channels of the m-1.0t into the left SW-12, and split a right signal to both channels of the m-400t to the right sw-12.  These cabs are passively crossed over.  I used to have FITS with gain balance, until I messed with it for a year.  Because 2 sets of pre-outs do not jive with 8 front amplifiers.  While I do not chase SPL, my wife found a Schoshe decibel meter at a garage sale that reads just under 120 db at 15 feet at just under 5000 watts, give or take.

 

    

Other Components:  I am a purist with signal length.  The shorter, the better.  However, I do occasionally use an EV 8 channel board with a PM-900 to supplement the front when friends want to come over an jamb.

    

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WOW - you gotta lotta gear there, Zoom!  I'll bet those CVs flat out SING with that much power.  I actually had a pair of CV AT-10s in the back of my Honda CRX when I was younger.  Ran them off a Rockford Punch 75, and MAN - they were LOUD with only 35 watts...

 

Welcome to the gang -- Thanks for the photo - We LOVE pictureseusa_dance.gif
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We do, thanks. 'Enjoy' is extremely relevant, however. My wife doesn't enjoy opening cabinets upstairs after a an evenings' festivities, for fear of getting attacked by glassware.
 
Mr. D... One of the weak points of this system, quite honestly, is my drivers.  Let me explain.  I do honestly love my CVs.  For Jam purposes only.  I can leave the room and if someone messes with the volume, my sphincter doesn't tighten, because I KNOW they will take a beating.  They rock at heavy volumes settings.  But they flat out suck at low volumes.  I don't have a fortune to spend on good quality fronts, and I do really like the DCM sound, but I know there is someone here than can help me make my next purchase, preferably some good fronts.  I'm thinking along a Reference Polk or Infinity Kappas. 
Thanks again, and happy listening.
 

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Concrete, sir. I really enjoyed the 'upstairs' boomy ness in my last house with a single PM-900 mono and S181, and was scared to death with the prospect of a concrete floor. But I was fortunate enough to discover the solovence of a local East Grand Rapids Jazz band and grabbed a pair of PM-1200s for less than 25c/watt. I owned the 1200s for a year before I could afford a pairing to that s181. i looked to a local builder (Meniscus audio) before them ignoring me having to give up and purchase another 181, (NOT any easy task). It is solid, at above average volume, a little dirty lower. But I have the advantage of walking up, turning off a few amps, and cleaning it up. The DCM sound is perfectly balanced ay lower volumes. All by itself. In fact, a perfectly balanced speaker under 2/5th volume, IMHO.
I was hoping I might catch someones' attention with a large Infinity structure.  Because I am intrigued.

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Zoom if you went with the Kappa 8.1's you would be good, the 12" driver is ported. You would get a nice balance of sound at any level. If your heart was hung on the original Kappa 8 you would need the assist of a subwoofer with concrete floors. The RS 8 series is not bass reflex, sealed enclosure. Either way, I'm sure you would be happy like Daddyjt.

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Zoom,

 

One thing I learned about the Kappas - their stellar performance comes at a price. They are the most power hungry speakers I have come across. I first hooked mine up to my 500t mkII, and the sent it into protection mode straight away. I am now feeding them with one of my 1.0t mkII amps. It does well, but I will soon be transitioning to a bi-amp set up with a TFM 55x and a TFM 35x.

 

It's the old saying - if you want to 5hit like an elephant, you can't eat like a bird:-)

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Nice setup and loads of gear.

 

You have plenty of speakers to choose from when listening to movies or music. What you my not realize is the placement of them could be canceling some of what you feel is lacking. The subs being nondirectional right under the CV's could be canceling some of your bass. I found that sometimes just a slight change in position of a speaker or subwoofer can make a world of difference. It's not always where they look the best when placed as much as where they are placed. Just my 2 cents.
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What a rack!!!
 
Sorry, just saw our local weather girl in a tight mini skirt.
 
Oh, that is also one loaded set up there pal! Your desire to learn about Infinity speakers is on the right track IMHO. I rock Infinity Quantum speakers since my younger days. I also kept a pair of nice CV speakers for frequent parties I had back then. Those circuit breakers on them popped more than once while I was out of the room. Any other speaker would have had me in prison for murder (or at least assault).
 
How long have you been gathering this massive collection of wonderful?
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Very nice Zoom.  Lots of cool stuff, but a small question -- why do you say no digital?  I still have some analog sources -- turntable, cassette desk, old FM tuner -- but with BluRay, DVD, CD, XBox, WiFi, iTunes, etc., it does seem like you've got a whole lot of digital goin' on.  Nice setup though, thanks for sharing.
 
 
 
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Sorry, all.  I really wanted to be an active part of this thread for obvious reasons, but I suffered an ssd drive failure last week and am still recovering.  I'll get back to everyone in the next day or two.  Thanks for the input.
 
Madd...
I understand what you are talking about, and really just in the last year have started to understand/confront the problems that occur with nodal point cancellation.  While I knew about dead nodes from engineering, I never gave it much thought until I had built a dedicated room about 4 years ago.   Louder volumes, abstract jammin, I don't really have an issue, since I am either outside on the patio or wandering....or simply overpower it.  But I happened upon a second pair of TF600s very cheaply (they are built with four 'time aligned' tweeters each for sound staging) and the DCM guys tell me NEVER to use all four 600s all in the front since I will have the cross-talk problems.   When I want to sit down and really just listen, I want to be able to hear everything, just sometimes at over the top volume levels.  I love transients, and appreciate the amp headroom it takes to produce them.  But the problem I realize I have is the dead nodal points that inevitably occur when you start adding separate sound sources to get the headroom necessary to accurately produce those transients.   When most people hear this system, especially at 3/5 or better, they wonder how they have never heard something in the music before.  The next expensive step, is finding a single set of drivers that will keep the balanced low volume sound, all of the way up into the upper volume levels, thereby eliminating multiple sound sources.
For the bottom end cancellation, I have an Miller+Kriesel (its black, 2" by 5", no model number?)  active crossover that I have never used because I don't know the upper low end crossover value, and I don't want to kill the mid-bass from my AT-10s. Can you suggest a simple way or change I might use to see if those down firing twelves are killing me?  If I was to try to kill some of the lower freq from the 10s, maybe a Harrison labs RCA plug type high pass crossover?
Thanks and nice Charger btw.
Zoom
 
Gene....
What makes the Infinitys so power hungry?  Is is nominal impedance?   
 
PDog...
We have to talk about the digital...;..  I use exclusively RCA inputs because the CT-17 is analog only.  I have no way currently to decode an optical digital sound signal.  I had put this system together mainly as a 'sound stage' system and it happened to make a killer HT.  I am actually experimenting with going back to an analog turntable for a source because of the depth and warmer sound.  I guess I say no digital because I don't use the digital optical......

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What a rack!!!
 
Sorry, just saw our local weather girl in a tight mini skirt.
 
Oh, that is also one loaded set up there pal! Your desire to learn about Infinity speakers is on the right track IMHO. I rock Infinity Quantum speakers since my younger days. I also kept a pair of nice CV speakers for frequent parties I had back then. Those circuit breakers on them popped more than once while I was out of the room. Any other speaker would have had me in prison for murder (or at least assault).
 
How long have you been gathering this massive collection of wonderful?

Hehehehe.......,
I actually  started with a Kenwood krv-77r and the top pair of AT-10s for a highschool graduation present from my parents back in 1989.  The Kenwood I still have upstairs for the kids. I happened upon the top m-200t  with a Carver coupler (C-11?)  and realized that that frickin amp would run 4 ohms all day long.  I was designing car audio systems right when they started to get A LOT bigger, so I had a decent knowledge of load/impedance and crossovers.  Car audio is the definition of bi-amp, tri-amp, and quadra-amp.  What impressed me the most was how far you could drop the impedance with the Carver and it still wouldn't shut down.  That was when I started.  The only Carver piece that I came to own new was actually the C-11 pre-amp, and I won it in a Chrysler sales contest around '92.  The rest I purchased used over the last 20+ years. 
 
Those that knock Carver need to stop by with their favorite album.  Most people leaved changed forever.
 

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AKKKK!!!
 
I just powered up my system to catch last weeks NHRA I have DVR'ed, and my CT-17 left side main pre-out has a bunch of static and is about 1/3 gain as the right.  I switched rca's left and right and the problem stays with the output.
That SUCKS.

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Gene....
What makes the Infinitys so power hungry?  Is is nominal impedance?   
 
 

 Sorry, never saw your question from 8 months ago...

 
The internal crossover network mostly, it dips down into the .7 ohm region so you need amps with testicular fortitude to power them in extended mode.I asked Bob Carver about the Infinity Kappa 9 speakers (he has a pair too emwink.gif) and he basically told me that Arnie Nudell was a genius when he created these speakers. Others some times have not found the right combination of amps due to smoking the amps or frying the EMITS or SEMITS. The speakers are bullet proof if you have an amp that can source plenty of current and voltage. Many have tried to power these speakers and failed, very few have come to the point where those speakers sing like no ones business (me included). Heavenly is a word that comes to mind. emwink.gif
 

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I had researched them after we talked on a different thread. I guess Nudell had built a no holds barred no compromises type of speaker, not caring about impedance load at all. He just chose the best drivers he could find.

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Anyone might have a guess on a weak left main pre-out on a CT-17? Has lots of static and is weak. I just noticed it about an hour ago.

I switched rca's rt to lft and the problem stays with the pre-amp. I had one main pre-out completely quit on this pre-amp about 2 years ago, and had it fixed locally. That problem was more than weak solder.

Balance control seems clean. No scratchy noise when I use it.

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Ha!! I think I fixed it. I knew had a weak center channel pre-amp to amp rca. I ran it through the calibrate test tone to check output balances and it sounded funny again so I disconnected that center channel cable and it seems ok. Either that or heat from warming up fixed it. Funny thing is, it had a weak left frt output even when the Dolby was off with that cable plugged in.

The more you know.

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SHIT.
 
CT-17 fuzzy/weak left main pre-out again.  Waiting to see if heating fixes it. 
I think when I was messing around with the center channel rca two days ago it may have been the idle heat that fixed it.
 
Damn cold solder joints.  I'va had this crazy thing serviced a couple times for that.
 Taz.gif

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Zoom,

 

One thing I learned about the Kappas - their stellar performance comes at a price. They are the most power hungry speakers I have come across. I first hooked mine up to my 500t mkII, and the sent it into protection mode straight away. I am now feeding them with one of my 1.0t mkII amps. It does well, but I will soon be transitioning to a bi-amp set up with a TFM 55x and a TFM 35x.

 

It's the old saying - if you want to 5hit like an elephant, you can't eat like a bird:-)

 

Why play with a tfm when a sunfire or lightstar will drive them?

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