Tronman

zumbini, Another idea for the interconnect cable would be to purchase a AVEL Y236906 800VA toroidal transformer and buy a box to put it in and some binding posts. Now granted this is a little overboard as the transformer costs about $105.00 plus the box and binding posts but the transformer is rated at 800 watts. Here is the link if you were interested to the spec sheet: http://www.avellindberg.com/transformers/y23_range.htm Goto the bottom of the page were it says Detailed Specifications (Standard Range) to view the spec sheet. You could also get the 1000VA model but that one is quite a bit more expensive Maybe later if you wanted to make a little project out of it you could use one of these.

zumbini, You wrote: "While waiting for them to arrive I figured it would be smart to determine why the originals failed" Just some FYI on the tweeters, you had me thinking about the non-working tweeters I pulled from my SDS SRS 1.2tl's and so far the 3 I have looked at have had the following issues: (2) Open wire where it goes into the dome (1) Intermittent open where it goes into the dome Used 30 gauge wire to repair the damaged wires. 40X microsope and a nice soldering iron I will be looking at the rest of them tomorrow but my point is most of the time it is just age which do these in. Try putting a multi-meter on the connectors + and - and gently push on the dome where both wires go into the dome and see if you get continuity or at least something registering on the meter - best to take them apart and remove that sticky foam they have on the outside around the tweeter dome and then do your test. The other check is to just look at the voice coil my bet is that all of the voice coils look good which would indicate a broken wire. For this "T2: left = 14.0 ohms; right = 14.2 ohms" - this looks correct 11.5 Ohms + 2.7 Ohms = 14.2 Ohms T3 I would think should be 25.2 Ohm unless I am missing something - 22.5 Ohms + 2.7 Ohms = 25.2 Ohms ?? The white stuff on the resistor is normal - as long as they read the correct resistance your good and those do not go bad very often - I have never seen one go bad anyway but that doesn't mean it can't happen. I would think it is going to be a little more difficult to detect a bad cap as what normally happens is that the caps get dried out and change value due to their age. Someone else like to chime in on this one?

Roger that thanks for the update

Zumbini, "At this point I think I'll keep looking for some SL3000's and save up for the Polk replacement (RDO198-1)" Before you order don't forget to log into the Polk Forum so when you order them they will give you free shipping http://forum.polkaudio.com/ http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/55888/polk-audio-speaker-wiring-schematics-more-stereo-dimensional-array-sda You really should head over to Polk Forum and post any questions if you have them - those guys have great information as they have already been there and done that especially with the SDA SRS 1.2tl. To give you an idea here is one of the modified crossovers by VR3 Mods, he goes a little over the top but this just gives you an idea of what these guys are willing to do as an example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polk-Audio-SDA-SRS-1-2-1-2TL-Vr3-Mods-The-Abbot-Crossover-Modification-EACH-/151626235874?hash=item234da0bfe2 Those are looking really good by the way, not sure if you have the little metal feet on the bottom but ACE Hardware sells some that work perfect, let me know as I have to pick up another pair and I have the box if you need the info off of it.

Zumbini, I'm sure you've figured out that the tweeter DOME will just pop off when you lift it by the terminals. On the back you will see the voice coil and where the wire has broken due to the years of movement/stress. I have a couple here at home that I am going to bring into work and look at them under a 40x microsope and repair them. The repairs can be done but you have to have a microscope a nice soldering iron and of course a steady hand. I repaired a few SL-2000 this way.

Looking GOOD! Those passives being in great shape is a blessing, I would not want to have to find replacements for those!! Woofers are easy to find because at least they are available! Thanks for showing how those side panels come off. The guy I purchased mine from had taken them off but I have never seen a picture of how they are fastened on to the box - Great!!

Just a quick note on the bi-amping. Most people who have tried this really didn't notice any improvement from all the polk forum info I have read. But with that being said I am running mine bi-amped only because I have a Sunfire Cinema Grand Signature 400 Seven with the Current Output Terminals vs the Voltage Output Terminals going to the tweeters for that tube sound but have fun and try different configurations that is the only reason mine are set up that way.

Keep us updated on how your surround repair is going, on mine I sacrificed one of the woofers and used the surround out of it to repair a couple of the other ones that weren't to bad. I used rubber cement as I could put it on both pieces of surround let it get tacky then stick them together. The couple I did came out really good but man can that get tedious when you have to get behind the supports on the basket so all I can do is wish you luck as I've been there and done that Good Luck

Zumbini, "Yes, I have BOTH ICs, the stock cable that came with SDA speakers, and the A1-I for non-common ground amps. That is great!! Especially the A1-I as those don't come around very often I was just thinking when I picked up my first pair of SDA SRS 1.2tl's and I was auditioning them at the guys house I did not notice that 3 of the tweeters were blown until I got back to my house. The point being have you verified that all 8 are working correctly?? You can use a paper towel tube or just cup each one individually as it is difficult to hear each one by itself when all 4 are on at the same time. If one is going to blow it is normally the top one as this one gets the greatest frequencies and therefore the most power. The other 3 are crossed over differently and a little lower if you look at the schematic. The other thing I have noticed is that over the years the wire to voice coil will actually break from the years of the slight vibration, I have noticed that the couple I have taken apart the voice coil shows no damage but right at the point the wire goes into to the tweeter it will break. Now this is on the SL-2000 as these are clear and you can actually see the wire on the SL-3000 you can't since they are basically black. Here is a picture of the new RDO198 that replaces the SL3000. These can be differentiated from the RDO194 by the Large terminal you see in the picture which is the NEGATIVE Terminal. The RDO194 terminals are both the same size (Small).

zumbini, You are correct "I don't see how that could be worse than leaving them unsealed" you want these sealed up as tight as you can!! Since you are going to be working on these it would be a good idea to seal the woofers up with ARMACELL - it's in the pipe section of Home Depot. It's actually a type of pipe insulation tape that works great to make sure you get a air tight seal on the woofer, tweeters and the connector on the back for the speaker wire. Here are the other two schematics for you - these can be really fun to work on. I know you have already done the speaker cloth but here is a link I found that really helped me out and anyone else thinking of redoing the cloth: http://www.humanspeakers.com/cgi-bin/page.pl?page=howto/grill-cloth.txt it's on the Humanspeakers website if the link does not work. Here are the right and left schematics for you /yetanotherforum/uploadfiles/20150814200213711.pdf /yetanotherforum/uploadfiles/20150814200243440.pdf Here is the speaker cloth I used, this is the more expensive but it is beautiful and one order should do both speakers. For these I would spend the couple of extra bucks. http://www.parts-express.com Mellotone Premium Black Speaker Grill Cloth Yard 64" Wide Here is the other stuff I use that works good just not as nice. http://www.parts-express.com/ Parts Express Speaker Grill Cloth Black Yard 70" Wide

Here is the schematic for the crossover if you were interested: /yetanotherforum/uploadfiles/20150814145513373.pdf If you would like I can give you the schematic for the left and the right so just let me know.

I actually have 2 pair of SDS SRS 1.2tl's sitting in my living room , One set I am using and the other set is sitting to the side. Found another pair with all the mods for the crossover and Larry Rings and even the 1000VA Toroid (This is the Audio Grade Toroid approx $325.00 dollars). The guy I bought these from went all out and spent over $3000.00 dollars in upgrades so these can get a little expensive. As far as the surrounds go those rubber surrounds are really stuck on there so replacing it may be a little tricky. I have a pair of 2.3tl's that had the cat problem and the exact same thing happened on those - all the surrounds had holes in them on one speaker but I only had 4 to deal with so replacing them didn't cost me an arm and a leg but (6) tweeters at $60.00 dollars a piece hurt a little bit but considering I bought them for $75.00 for the pair I was not complaining Just going to throw this out there, I actually put these in my 2.3tl's just to see how it sounds and these really sound good and much cheaper then trying to replace them with the original and are a drop in replacement - they fit perfectly like they were made for them!! http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dc160-4-6-1-2-classic-woofer-speaker--295-309 http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dc160-8-6-1-2-classic-woofer--295-305 Usually the going rate on eBay is $35.00 dollars a piece plus shipping for the original MW6503/11. Polk does make new ones but at $60.00 a piece and that is the Polk Member price that is going to be really expensive. Polk also makes a replacement tweeter that is the new upgraded version of the SL-3000 which is the RDO198 and yes those are $60.00 a piece also. If you are going to be ordering anything through Polk make sure you sign up for your Polk Membership so you can get the discount which includes FREE Shipping. Here is another link for you: http://www.gimpod.com/sda-id.html

Didn't see you mention it but you do have the interconnect cable for those guys??