Fabrokoner

Awesome, Good luck getting it set up. I'm going out of town for the weekend, not sure if Ill have internet access. So I may be incommunicado for the weekend. Hopefully you'll be all set, if not I'll try to lend a hand on Monday.

I agree its a bit daunting, but if you follow the tutorial its not too bad. It does take a long time to rip a disc sometimes (especially if there is a scratch or dust on the disk and it goes into error correction mode). To be honest I have never used dbpoweramp to rip before. It might rip just fine. I just know and trust EAC. It is super easy to use for converting. I had forgot to put the links in my previous post. I edited them in, but here they are again. http://www.exactaudiocop....php/resources/download/ http://blowfish.be/eac/ The blowfish site has full step by step tutorials on how to set up EAC and calibrate your CD rom drive and on the process of actually ripping with EAC. You should be able to just follow the steps and be a ripping master in short order.

I realize the intention of this thread is to get your settings in Itunes right, but if you really are trying to archive and then dispose of your CD's I wouldn't rip in Itunes. It doesn't do a very good job of ripping mp3 and there are better (lossless) formats to rip to. These formats compress the files smaller than the .wav on the CD, but they dont discard any information like mp3's and the other lossy formats. I prefer FLAC but there are others like APE and apple lossless. A quick google of lossless formats will get you hours of reading. I am not a mac guy so I cant speak to max or any other software as far as personal use. I do have source that I trust who uses X Lossless Decoder (XLD) to rip on mac OS X. Are you a mac guy Dennis? As far as ripping to FLAC for archival purpose for you PC people. I use Exact Audio Copy (EAC). The software takes a bit to set up properly and see how your CD Rom drive works. It looks more daunting than it really is, and you only have to do it once. Here is a link to the software and then a set up guide for it: http://www.exactaudiocopy.de/en/index.php/resources/download/ http://blowfish.be/eac/ Once you get this set up. You can set it to actually rip the CD once and then a second time, comparing bit for bit to make sure there isn't any errors during the rip. This takes a good hour usually, longer if there is scratches and it has to do error correction. Rip it to FLAC with a cue file and you can use the .cue to recreate the original CD bit for bit. Then you can burn an exact copy of the original CD from the FLAC files. When I want to make a MP3 for my ipod. I use dbpoweramp to transcode the FLAC to mp3 :http://www.dbpoweramp.com/ I though it was free but not any more I guess, I'm sure there are many other programs out there that will transcode the FLAC files for you. I will post a tutorial on actually ripping the CD with EAC if anyone has interest.

Hey Dennis, I'm at work right now but will try to post a more informative ripping guide later tonight. I prefer to rip to FLAC for the lossless format. I use a bit of software called Exact Audio Copy. Set up properly it does a practice rip and then a real rip and compares them to make sure there were not any read errors during ripping. The FLAC's can be directly transcoded to MP3 using db poweramp. No need to re rip them with Itunes. I use 192 VBR for my MP3's. I think they sound the best for the file size. I will try to post more helpfully tonight.

Pair of Infinity RSa's Pair of Infinity SS 2001's Pair of Criterion VI'sPair of Boston Acoustic HD 10's Pair of Polk Audio Monitor 10's Pair of Infinity 12" Mobile Subwoofers Rockford Fosgate DVC Mobile Subwoofer and some random drivers from trashed speakers. The only ones I really use are the RSa's and the Monitor 10's. If you would have caught me yesterday there would have been two more pairs of crappy speakers in that list.

So I've been busy all week working on the RSa's. I figured it was time for an update. I've added more pics to the gallery if you want to check them out. I finally got to hear them today for a good hour or so. I must say I really like them. Those EMIT's are crisp! The woofer surrounds came in on Tuesday so I got these re-foamed right away. The first time I've ever done it. It was pretty easy to feel where the voice coil was centered. I'm pretty happy with my first job. In between glueing the woofers I started to sand one of the cabinets. Taking Rod & MadMike's advice I stripped it using steel wool. I used just a little 120 grit to take some of the deeper scratches out. I'm really happy with how the tops and sides sanded out. Thanks for the steel wool tip guys!! I didn't sand the front and back to bare wood, just gave it a once over (I regretted this later). (First coat of finish paint) I painted the front and back of the cabinet with out taking it down to bare wood. Just a quick coat of primer and then three coats of Rusto Hammered Black. The edge grain of the side panels really drank the paint and I'm not happy with how the edges of the panels came out. While I was waiting for the faces to dry I stretched some new fabric on the screens. I put some black knit type fabric on them. I painted the the Infinity symbols silver. After the faces dried I painted the tops and sides with thee coats of clear poly. It took until this morning to get to this point. So after the clearcoat had dried I put the drivers back into both cabinets and put them side by side for the comparison shots. Then it was time to hook up the TFM-55 and let her rip. Spent about an hour listening to them before I just had to rip the drivers out of the other one and start sanding it down.

Hey Jason, Welcome to the circus! Looking forward to seeing your recap thread.

Alright folks, I'm putting together an order for the caps to rebuild the crossovers. I've spent most of the evening researching crossovers and capacitors. I've never done any work on crossovers before. I'm looking for some recommendations for the caps I should buy. I'm having trouble finding the exact values at mouser etc. Parts express has a pretty good selection of "crossover" caps which are the correct value, most of which are over $20. They do have some Dayton Audio caps that are more affordable but dont match value exactly. 12.5uf 250v <---this is a 12uf cap 6uf 250v<---this is a 6.2uf cap Is it ok to deviate from the schematic this much? I also found these and these at TEDSS for $2.50 and $.75 respectively. Do the "crossover" grade caps really make that much of a difference? Here is the schematic: Any thoughts, opinions, rants and/or advice would be appreciated.

Welcome to the carnival, Mark. Show us some pics of your system when you can.

I know that's why I actually went and got em. I actually have enough projects right now (the TFM-35 is laughing at me over there), but I need some better speakers and these were worth twice the asking price in parts alone. So now I have a new project.

I just picked up a pair of Infinty RSa's for $25 on Craig's List. The woofers need to be refoamed, a few holes in the screen and there are some light scratches on the cabinets. Other than that they are in pretty good shape. I know these aren't a very high value speaker but I'm going to rebuild them mainly for the experience. I have never really done any speaker work before. More pics beyond what is here can be viewed at my IMGUR gallery. Here are some shots of them once I got 'em home. (Nice surround repair, huh? Guy used some tub caulk to reseal the foam. Luckily there isn't any on the cone itself.) The plan is to refoam the woofers. Change out the spring terminals for binding posts. New electrolytics in the crossovers. New fabric for the screens. Possibly a sanding and refinishing. I ordered a foam kit and some binding posts off of ebay. I didn't want to use the same Hong Kong binding posts ive been using on my amps because they were taller than the recess that the panel is set in. I found what looks like a decent quality post that doesnt look quite as tall. Still from China. First things first, I figure refoaming the woofer should be the first step. Why do anything else before you know the actual speakers are good. To that end I pulled the woofer with the caulk on it out, stripped the old foam surround off and cleaned the glue off of the woofer with some Q-tips and isopropyl alcohol. Scraped it off of the basket with a wood chisel. It came out pretty good. Now I need to go shovel all that snow that I didn't do yesterday. First a few questions. Has anyone sanded any Infinity cabinets of this era? How thick is the veneer? Do you think I can give it a light sanding with out going through the veneer?

Haha how apt.... The Bee Gee's | Tragedy

Welcome to the Carver site! There is much knowledge here. I'm pretty much a newb around here, myself. Good bunch of guys here. Very welcoming. Two nice pieces you have there! I'm lusting after an M1.0t myself. Everyone seems to love the C-1 though I have no direct experience with one.

Hello all! I have been doing a bit of reading around here and I'd just like to say that this site/forum is a wealth of information and you guys are amazing! So I'm the new guy around, name is Rob. I'm fairly technical minded and enjoy breaking/fixing things. I'm in my mid thirties, can handle a soldering iron, though my electrical theory is a little lacking. Part of the reason I'm here is to brush up on that. So I came here in search of info to help me repair my TFM-35 which I bought at a pawn shop some time in the early 90's along with my CT-3 for $400. It recently gave up the factory smoke and now I want to fix it. I will be starting a repair thread with photo's if any one is interested.