Hibernator69

Ditto! And thanks for the great work on my M-500 and M1.0t's.

My main listening room is similar to your room B-Man. I'm using Jriver to stream to a from my NAS to a dedicated music PC and out to DAC via asynchronous USB. From memory I think that computer is using my 5GHz network and the particular wireless dongle is rated for AC-1200, i.e. just under 900 mbps. Aren't high quality flac streams typically under 1 mpbs? Even if I'm off by an order of magnitude by going from memory you could stream a couple of HD movies and still have plenty of space left over if all you had was that one 5 GHz channel. Even wireless-n will handle this easily if you don't overload the network with continuous HD streaming and file sharing and you aren't trying to transmit through 5 concrete walls. Streaming to individual speakers would involve multiple times the bandwidth to be sure, but I think the timing/jitter issue is way more difficult than bandwidth. Audio only streams are not exactly high bandwidth in comparison to video.

Wow, very cool. Thanks for sharing. So what you are saying is that platter needs to be defragged ...

I'm partial to the NHT brand starting with the VT-2 towers which can be had for $300-$400. After 15 years I finally found my dream set of the M3.3s and for good measure also snagged a very rare set of VT-3s. Both are incredible. Not to diminish the VT-2s, but it's a night and day level of difference. VT-3 and M3.3 can be had for $1000-1500 usually, but you have to be patient and ready to jump. If a little more flexibility is needed I'm also a big fan of the Sunfire XT Trio speakers (rosewood finish or in-wall). You can outfit a whole movie room for $1500-$2000 (subwoofer is extra) if you just watch eBay. For that matter the VT-3 is a killer video speaker as well when mated with the nearly unobtainable VS-3s or the much more commonly available M-6 speakers (I've got 5 M6 speakers to complement the VT-3s in my movie room along with a pair of Sunfire CRM2-BIP for OCCD requirements). According to one of the NHT engineers/designers the M-6 is a full sonic match/replacement for the VS-3. I just bought a set of Carver ribbon ALS Silvers. I've been dreaming of getting some of those large ribbon drivers since the mid 90s and hope it's all it's cracked up to be. Can't make the recommendation yet as I haven't even heard them yet, but others here will definitely swear by them. Pretty much all of the speakers mentioned are power hungry, but if you've found this forum you probably are on your way to owning multiple M1.5, M500(t), Silver 7T, Sunfire Cinema Grand Signature, etc, etc, so that really isn't an issue. The OCCD answer to you problem is simple: Buy 5-6 different sets of speakers and see what you like best. Your spouse has to accept your disability and support the treatment (buy ever more Carver and other audio gear). Doghouse, shmoghouse! This is medical science!

Rebecca Black - Friday

Great summary. I'm guessing a short is a pass region, but is a large resistor similar to the open circuit for DC?

Thx for rundown. You forgot about Gene's K(appa)-MAX 11.1 system. With 4 silver 7ts and an array of TFM-45s and 55s he must be over 10,000 watts. Would love to know how he fits 8 16 cu ft sub enclosures in that room though!

Lol, I knew it: Madonna Had no idea what Q sound was other than that I knew I had seen it on one of my CDs. Didn't know the Pink Floyd album had it too. Other choices are available too according to he Wikipedia page.

Yeah, hmmmm good: Allman Brothers' Jessica.

Love this thread, lots of songs for me to check out! I'm a little stuck in the Euro 80s, but I have added a whole classic rock side I somehow neglected in my teens. My list has to do more with things I am very familiar with, they might not be traditional reference recordings: in no particular order - Die Toten Hosen: Hier kommt Alex, Bonnie & Clyde, Eisgekuehlter Bommerlunder, Disco in Moskow, and whatever couple CDs I'm currently favoring - Depeche Mode: Get the Balance Right, Love in Itself, New Life - Dire Straights: This Man's too Strong, Sultans of Swing, Telegraph Road, Once Upon a Time in the West - Yellow: A night at the Roxy - Alan Parsons: Tales of Mystery and Imagination (especially the first two cuts) - Saga: Don't be Late - Frankie Goes to Hollywood: everything, lol, it's all on one or two CDs anyway. Pleasuredome, Wasteland, and parts of Two Tribes - Joe Jackson: Stepping Out and the Big World CD (live concert recording, but with a dead silent audience, really big sound) I'll have to finish this later, but I had something like 20-25 CD with me when i auditioned the VT-2s in 1996/97. Musical tastes change over time, so this is a lot of fun to think about.

Very nice looking speakers. Really love the stands too. Just wish I hadn't seen the post the day after my brother put my new Klipsch KG 4 speakers in the mail.

Wow,in please ... Gotta learn about this karma thing sometime.

Heh, love Monoprice. Wish they were right outside CA though, but I digress. Bought a bunch of their RCA interconnects recently to replace either the super cheap ones you get in the box or some 25 and 50 ft long cables I bought a long time ago when we had a long cable run in the basement in previous house.

My C-11 has balanced outputs. If your preamp is single-ended you have a few choices: 1. Buy (or make) appropriate RCA to XLR adapter cables to get in (1 pair) and out (2 pairs) of the XO. While this is the simplest solution, and it works MOST of the time, it can result in a ground loop. No way to know for sure until you try it.... I've got XLR to RCA for the outputs to the power amps since I was planning ahead with the Ultradrive Pro. Will have to check if I have any RCA to XLR adapters though. Had wanted to use digital in, but never ordered the right converter box for either toslink or coax to whatever the Behringer needed to accept digital in over the XLR input. Ground loop doesn't mean anything to me yet (other than it is presumably not good). I think I've seen various descriptions of converting XLR to RCA by splicing the CLR's + and - pins together. Can't recall seeing any descriptions of the other way around. Or maybe it's that the Behringer accepts unbalanced input and thus a simple adapter plug was sufficient.

Uh, umm, err, ... I might have just succumbed to the OCCD solution as well and ordered 1 or more of the P1.5ts at $229 each ... Somebody PLEASE buy the remaining 3 units before I strike again!!! Also, somebody PLEASE buy the PM2.0t for $350 that has been seducing me for the last couple days. p.s. Do you think in the end one of us (me likely) could end up on TLC's hoarders with a house full of audio gear? Needless to say you'd have at least 400 amp service from the power company and sparking, arcing, and frayed wires all over the place ...

Will come back to this when I get my C-2 delivered. Adding XLR outputs sounds like the solution - at least for my listening room.

I've been using Furman products since the late 70's and that's a new one on me Joe. Perhaps you have a PS-PRO or PS-PRO II. Does it have a key switch on the front panel? This one: http://www.furmansound.com/product.php?id=PS-8R

Yes, the Ultradrive Pro. Caught the $199 Xmas time sale!!! Thought dbx was odd, DCS LOL. Thanks for recco for the smaller Xover. Saw it, but wasn't sure that's what I needed. For $80 that's a pretty easy way to go ... except for the whole XLR thing. Hmm, buy adapters, make adapters, buy Carver Pro amps. WWWOCCDD? I've had the M4.0t on the subs and the TFM-35 of the sats (probably only using sub preout, not beamed). Sounds better than the other way around. Guess I was just expecting the M4.0t to turn my speakers into some kind of audio nirvana. Actually did notice something new in a familiar recording once recently. That kind of did surprise me.

This is a picture of my TFM-35, but it pertains to the question at hand. In my listening room I've got my M4.0t driving the VT-2 full range right now, but feel there's not enough base. I have used the TFM-35 in addition to the M4.0t in various bi-amp and sub/sat configs. Someone touched on balancing output levels and the issue of the built in crossover freq in another thread. I think that's making more sense to me now. Here I just wanted to discuss some of the cabling options: - connected to the inputs right now is a splitter that I would hook up to my old Denon AVR-3600 sub out (internal crossover set of whatever Denon offered that was closest to 125 Hz. I know this will result in some signal loss, but I can get it to sound pretty good and it's not too hard to match loudness for sub and sats the way I feel is good. - the cables laying out (used some black tape to show right vs left channel, oops, forgot to to black on one of the connectors at the splitter) are how I could bi-amp using only the built-in pre-amp outs. In this case though (I haven't actually tried this with these two amps, but it is *exactly* how I've set up the 2 M1.0ts in the movie room), balancing the output level depends pretty much all on the dial on the front of the TFM-35. Also in this case I think putting the M4.0t on the sub would make things easier. But I just can't get past thinking the M4.0t is supposed to sound like some kind of heavenly unobtainable tube amp ... why am I not trying to use it to where I can benefit from this? So I prefer to have the TFM-35 drive the subs and the M4.0t drive the mid/high. Now we're slinking back into the active crossover/DSP thoughts from the other thread though I think. Hmm, I'll have to give the Behringer dbx2496 a try maybe. Haven't really done much more than unpack it, was really bought to help with a long term DIY project. If I understood correctly from the other thread I would set a LPF at 150 HZ or so (above where the VT-2 internal LPF is) and a HPF somewhere around 100Hz (below the internal HPF setting). I can probably mess with signal levels too to balance the output power. If this works well, is there a cheaper solution I can insert here so I can put the 2496 back into my DIY workroom?

I'm going to show off my 4th grade electrical grid knowledge for a minute here: Don't you have to have a 20 amp circuit with the special wall outlets to use the PS8R II (20 amp version)? That, and the fact I got a great price on the 15 amp version is why I bought it. My M1.0ts also never much blink above the 2nd light bi-amping the VT-2s. The Pioneer receiver handles the rest of the speakers and the NHT SA-2 amp isn't even turned up halfway. That one suprised me a little, but I used the Pioneer's autosetup, so maybe I could have turned up the sub amp higher and the Pioneer would have just compensated for it. Will have to check, lol, maybe it is compensating for it being turned down so low.

Haven't turned it off yet tonight, but I switched around the plugs: Plugged in the front: cheapo BD-player temporarily No delay: - Pioneer SC1522k receiver and aTV3 First delay: - NHT SA-2 sub amp and DirecTV box Second delay: - M1.0t Third Delay: - M1.0t Didn't know where to stick the TV in all this, so it's going into a different AVR into a different wall outlet. The aTV and the DirecTV should probably be in an in switched outlet and I would like to use the 12v trigger on the Pioneer to turn on and off the other amps at least (start the sequence forward and backward). Eventually I can see a good BD player being added to the list. More big amps are possible if I score the NHT 2.9 or 3.3 speakers, since that means I could move my 2nd pair of VT-2s into the movie room and would want another pair of M-500/M1.x or something to drive them (PM1.5 viable here?). Should I just stick the smaller and always on items like aTV, DirecTV on the other AVR and reserve the Furman unit for the Pioneer receiver and big amps?

Can you explain the last part again? How is it that the 12v trigger reverses only the Furnman's power down sequence? And what is a clamping circuit (which power button do you mean, the master Furman on/off on the front, or the amp's own power switch)? My new receiver has 12v triggers and I hadnt noticed whether the Furman PS-8R (not II) has them, but that would be cool to be able to do the whole she-bang with just one remote control click.

LOFO - last on first off I've doing FOLO and that probably explains it then. Somehow got it in my head I need to make it nice and quiet (I.e. shut everything else off) before turning off the amps ... The rest followed from there.

LOL, took me a while (and a couple more posts that followed) to understand how this would help. For some silly reason thought this was in parallel and old absorb high currens. But how would you ever know if it blew? Snicker away chuckleheads ... You all had questions like that once, even if it was when you were 8 and rebuilding your dad's Chevy big block at the time. :-)