srinath

The Velo was a sc1250 if I recall. I am running straight stereo + center when I am doing movies. No sub. The 802's are plenty good. The eventual plan along with setting up a 7.1 is to get the PCS8's powered with a nak pa 7 or a crown or something that works well ... and actually to find the fcm8 and put em on top and cross over @ 350 hz out of the sub into the mains. The 802's then would go to the true stereo setup ... or turn into $$$. The room acoustics suck, I lose airiness and treble due to the low ceiling, I lose bass due to slab foundation and I lose mids due to all the furniture unless I lift the speakers a foot off the floor. So sparkly treble is my sacrifice. I'd rathe rhave mids and lows. Cool. Srinath.

I've been usings subs off and on for 4-5 years. I used to feel the EV sp12's were outperforming most of the subs, till I ran into my velodyne. Then I found a B&W ASW3000, that blew the doors off the velodyne. I now have a B&W PCS8 pair that I need to power with a good amp and the B&W 802's will be left in the dust for the last 10-12 hz Under 20 vs 30 or so. Need power ... need more power ... Cool. Srinath.

Vertical is correct for it huh, cool, I never knew that. I have empty georgian centurion cabs that have a back like that. Down firing 15" and T350 and a EV 828 if I recall. I have most of the components to populate those too, just no XO's and L-pads. The SP12/T350/m1823 cab is simple rectangular cab. Cool. Srinath.

I believe mine are homemade plywood cabs. Has a lot of pencil marks for the cuts etc etc. Both horns are vertical in mine, but I believe the mid horn is the same as yours, the woofer is below that, and the rectangle shaped vent is even below that. Was your mid horn painted at some time ? Mine has a sorta gun metal color. Or yours could be a different horn altogether. That gorgeous grill, I dont have that, mine is a plain wood frame with cloth over it. Mine I'm sure was made to some plan supplied by EV. Cool. Srinath.

I have a T350/M1823 and sp 12 with x8 and X36's. I would probably back them as my best speakers. Cool. Srinath.

My 6's obviously didn't have that issue - post CD design. The series 1's - I have never run a CD player with it. LOL. Cool. Srinath.

That 83-15k is really close to bose's specs for their drivers. May even be exact. 1 ohm is a bit high, bose said .9 ohm if I recall - but for the 6's. I'm not sure about 3-5. 91.5 db sensitivity is a bit lower than the bose specs, I think they said 93 for the 6's. It probably is close enough for matching with the ones that have some age on them. The best bit, it looks like the bose item. And probably acts and sounds very very close. Cool. Srinath.

I loved the Infinity Kappa 9's my friend had. I sold him my carver silver 7t's. But they blew me away - he now has 2 pairs of monoblocks cos he had 2 kappa 9's. I like speakers that have high efficiency, and make everything sound good. Vintage Altec's, old Klipschs, old EV's etc etc sound very good to me, and you can push em easily with 10watts per channel. In fact they work better with 10 watts of SET power than with anything else. I also have a infinity copy I made - dayton 12" drivers, a jamo 5" and a emit r ribbon into a fisher st735 cabinet that seriously punches well above the sum of its components. I tend to like speakers that put out a lot of good high freq. I can hear well into the 20Khz's (odd for a 45 yr old) and hence I almost need it to be there. I also liked those beryllium tweeter ones, yamaha NS1000 and down. HPM100,1500 etc etc also were cool. Like those amt equipped ones too. ESS heils and its modern versions. Cool. Srinath.

I have a series 2. No third wire in mine. Maybe the 2 continental had it ? Cool. Srinath.

4 drivers are same as 3. And IMHO, atleast from the 6's research I did I think nothing else will work. The freq response of the 6's was 85 hz - 15K hz. And .9 ohm. 1 and 2 are a bit easier to substitute. Sony made a few back in the 70's that were close. Cool. Srinath.

I have owned 6's 5's 1's and still own a 1 in sorry sorry sorry shape, but its awaiting a cabinet swap with speakerlab 901 copies. I like 6's best of all. The 1's come close actually they sound better and I am looking forward to the cabinet swap (need to make covers, cos the bose 1 cabinet is smaller than the speakerlab copy) so covers dont fit. 6's are good, the stands etc etc are nice for it too. Cool. Srinath.

That's one of the reasons why I dont have the working AL-III screaming away right now. They are power hogs too. And why I wanted to mod my M1.0T, and we all know where that went. Only amp I have that will run those is a Nak PA-7. But it is needing a recap I suspect. I sold the 7t mono blocks and need something like that now. Cool. Srinath.

Aaaaaah, That explains it. I can easily see why the 2X30 wont be as good now. Thanks RobertR. Srinath.

I am not able to put it in words, but if you look at smaller ribbons ther have higher freq extension without much loss in lower end freq response, and higher spl. They however are lower power handling. I have a few amt's and they behave that way too. OK let me explain it if I can. The center of the ribbon will have to extend further in a 60. 2X the length will be 4 X the extension. I dunno, maybe that matters. maybe they have to move further and hence they act like they are slower. You have a point though, and the edge effect is more in a smaller ribbon cos there is 4 edges for the surface area. Cool. Srinath.

LOL, but not really. In this case atleast. Magnetic lines of force in this case run left to right outward from the center. The current direction in the right 2 traces are up, and left traces are down, so when you pass a signal, the entire ribbon moves toward/away from you. Pretty simple. But you see here is a lovely bit of brain foolery for you - a 30" ribbon moves faster than a 60", and 2 X 30's have the same surface area as the 60. So the 30 X 2 is every bit as good as, and better than 1 X 60. Yet, people like the 60 far more than a 2 X 30 design. Go figure. I have heard neither, mine are 48's. Cool. Srinath.

Mine wasn't broken @ the little circuit board area. It was on the part of the ribbon where it goes into the magnet area. Cool. Srinath.

I didn't take it apart any further than the pics. The mdf and ribbon were not separated. You do need to pull the plates off right to repair with circuit writer right ? Thanks. Srinath.

The part that was broken in this ribbon was the part that was in the end of the ribbon just as it leaves the MDF edge on the bottom. Its not even visible without pulling it apart. That was why I was able to put a little patch of scotch tape on it. The 4 ohm count is about right too. The problem was 2 other legs dont make the 4 ohm cut either. I have to circuit writer a few more. I didn't bridge the conductors across to the adjacent one, its actually quite a bit of distance away, seeing as you're writing on it. Its almost like missing your line on a college ruled piece of paper. Pretty far away. Cool. Srinath.

1 Electrical break was fixed. I have a good many more flaws in the 2 ribbons. None are full on breaks - for now. I am probably going to run the thing a few 100 hours before I go nutzo on fabbing the magnets etc etc. This guy's pair also has issues with magnets getitng knocked out. This is a mechanical operation. I've been doing these since I was a baby. In India I was my dad's lookout when he was pulling his motorcycle apart, cos he would forget the way things go back together, and he was counting on my near photographic memory to tell him how to get it back together. It is no M 1.0 t, it will be put back together, it will work (for 1 second or 100 years) who knows. As it sits its got continuity in all of the 4 legs. I may patch a few more iffy spots with circuit writer and not put tape over those (cos only the edges can be taped IMHO). Cool. Srinath.

RobertR: Sorry I dont mean to say I can improve on Carver's work. But remember these were built in 1980's. In 2014 Neodymium is cheaper than ceramic magnets per unit of magnetic force. I'd like to think if he was building these today, he would use neodymium. Ribbon re engineering - well beyond where I can improve it at this point. These have vapor deposited aluminum. I cant get anywhere near that for how light it would be and anything I can imagine making will be far too thick and heavy. I pulled my ribbon apart to fix a open in 1 spot. It was right on the end and I fixed it with circuit writer and taped that spot. In fact that spot is a weak spot. The part were ribbon goes into open from the MDF ends. Anyway that part I fixed and have electrical continuity. Not run it after that, cos this guy's pair has a magnet that has moved. These magnets move very easy, even just bringing it from where ever you bought it, if you hit a few bumps on the way, it will drift out. Cool. Srinath.