jeffs

23 minutes ago, AndrewJohn said:

Where do you get these?  SVS directly?  Or, other supplier...

The usual place:

https://www.amazon.com/SVS-SoundPath-Subwoofer-Isolation-System/dp/B00NCSQ5GK

I don't like to buy used stuff from Amazon, but it looks like they have a "used-like new" set for less.  How bad can they be?

I drilled holes and used hurricane nuts for the homemade subs.  For my Sunfire HRS10 that I have in another room, I just used foamy 2-sided tape to hold them on.  The sub hasn't moved at all in years.

4 hours ago, AndrewJohn said:

Have you ever used the heat/iron method with straight titebond wood glue?

No, never thought of that.  TBH, I don't really see much advantage of doing it that way.  The glue takes longer to apply and dry. Extra steps with the ironing.  Wrinkling of the veneer would scare me a bit.

The contact cement method has a few disadvantages as well .... once contact is made, it's stuck.  The fumes can be difficult in closed space .... this should have been a winter project for me, but I do it outside so needed to wait for warmer temps.  With the glue, I could have done it in February.

3 hours ago, Kurt said:

Did you consider putting some kind of handle on the cubes at all.

Not really.  I put SVS Subwoofer feet on the bottoms.  Easy to get hands under to scoop them up and move them.

Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009KN8INE?ref_=ppx_hzod_title_dt_b_fed_asin_title_0_0 

I've used Mahogany as well. .... I think the vendor was "Edge Supply"

$42 for the cherry, 2ftx8ft was perfect for this project, only a few square inches of waste.

I use the old-school paper backed stuff with contact cement.  There is a peel-and-stick option as well.

Contact cement has tripled in price in 6 years .....used to be $8/quart now its 24.  Similar issue with the finish I use .... A quart of General Finishes Arm-R-Seal Satin is $45, half that not long ago.  Unfortunately I was out of both ..... should have bought a pint of each.

Wow!

3 hours ago, madmike46 said:

Were these originally veneer or were they the vinyl fake wood?

The worst looking fake wood vinyl that I've ever seen.

1 hour ago, AndrewJohn said:

I've been listening to my Polk SDA 1C speakers all morning, driven by an m1.0t..., what a perfect combination

I gave my brother a set of Polk SDA 2A speakers. I built him a m1.0t mkII.  He has a LARGE space.  It's a fantastic combo.  Six years later, he still raves about it.

43 minutes ago, AndrewJohn said:

I have to ask, what is that sub in the corner..., is that a super junior or other sunfire sub?  Did you cover it in cherry veneer?  If it is, and you did, How did you roll the radius edges?

The 2 subs are home made.  Passive.  Sunfire HRS10 drivers.  The boxes are Parts Express kits, 1 cuft.  Build is not quite a cube. The front is trimmed to achieve the same volume as a Sunfire HRS10 powered sub.  I did not use the face piece from the kit as I disliked the radius.  I made my own faces and threw away the radiused piece.

The pair is driven by the PM350 at the bottom of the rack. I won't use them with the Polks, but the Maggie LRS need them badly.  Want to love the LRS, tried hard. The Polks work great in the basement, but will probably live as shown.  LRS prolly on the chopping block.

These were my veneer guinea pigs several years ago.  My first veneer effort.  I've done 4 pairs of speakers in total and the subs came out the best.  Veneer on all 6 sides. I'm critical and it's difficult for me to find imperfections in these compared to the others.

I finally got around to re-veneering my Polk Monitor 11 speakers.  Did it fast, still came out good.

Speakers =$100, veneer job = about $120 for all materials.  Real cherry veneer, will darken with age.

While I had them out, I glued the midrange magnets.

I chose not to re-attach the bases. Did not refinish them.  Will eventually replace the bases with stands of solid cherry .... fall/winter project.

3 hours ago, Half Life said:

I just choose Amazon Music as the source, set it as preset #1, and then just hit PLAY.

This is a great feature.  I'm not sure everyone is aware of it.  Assign a WiiM preset to an Amazon Music playlist (or Spotify or whatever). Now you don't need your phone to start streaming that list, just hit the preset button on the remote.

My first WiiM is setup in my basement. I can go down there without phone, hit preset #1.  If the WiiM is off, it turns on, it's output trigger turns on a power switch to a m400, and the music starts playing. 

4 hours ago, Denny28 said:

I have also found a local C-11 for about 250 dollars, although the faceplate and cosmetics are not in great shape compared to my other gear.

If the faceplate is banged up and the knobs are chipped and dinged - I would avoid it.  If you are going to need to spend $100 more on an aftermarket faceplate, then why not spend that up-front on a $350 unit in nice/pristine condition?

You won't be happy with the banged up cosmetics.

4 hours ago, Denny28 said:

I am interested in finding a C-1 or C-11. I know there are some internal differences, but from what I understand they are basically the same design.

Correct.  IIRC the C-11 has a bit higher line gain, which should be lowered regardless of which unit you buy.  Both are too high.  The C-11 has a different Sonic Holography implementation.  The C-1 face will match your m1.0t nicely.

Good CD for Sonic Holography

Bottom line .... I pushed the PRs and made sure the mids did their dance, threw them in the trunk and drove home.  No issues. Will revisit the glue if/when I take them apart for wood veneering.  FWIW these are Monitor 11A, which is more-or-less the same as the Monitor 10.  Bigger box, different mid,  maybe slightly different xover?

These lived their last 10 years on the ocean .... I mean you could walk across the street straight into the Mystic CT Harbor. The MDF has absorbed a lot of moisture due to constant humidity.

The drivers are in excellent shape.  If I decide to keep these, I'm going to get a set of the RD-0194-1 replacements as I did for my brothers SDA2.  I hope these can still be had directly from Polk? The existing SL2000 tweeters can be harsh and tiring.  Maybe rebuild the crossovers with some quality caps as well.

For grins I put one on a stand that I've had forever but never used.  I think these stands hold 120 lbs.  Dying to use them for something, but this won't be it.

Anyway - well worth the $100.

deleted content here to make the topic flow correctly

45 minutes ago, 4krow said:

Gluing the magnets won't do much good if you can't center the magnets first. I would think that a solid adhesive like JB Weld is the way to go when you get to it.

Correct - if they are still OK when I pick them up, my goal is to NOT disrupt them until I get a chance to glue them.  JB Weld seems to be one option ....

Years ago I bought a pair of Polk SDA2 for my brother.  Didn't know anything about them. Loaded them on their sides into my SUV. Drove an hour home. Tried them out. A few days later - loaded them back up and drove 1.5 hours to his house. Nice speakers.

Today I'm going to pick up a pair of Monitor 10.  I was bored yesterday and started reading up on them.  Came across a magnet shift issue that may occur under various conditions .... a solid hit, or transporting them on their sides.

Now I'm kind of paranoid about getting them home (1.25 hours).  I know there are a few Polk experts out there.  I will be able to transport them on their backs, which seems to be preferred. Would this be sufficient, or should I remove the drivers for transport?

I do plan on glueing the magnets once I get them home.   Thanks.

8 hours ago, HoraceAnkle said:

Are the sides with the rack mounting slots removable to leave you with a regular rectangle enclosure ?

No.  There are 2 versions of the C-9.  One has a rack mountable face plate, the other is rectangular.  The rectangular ones are more common, so if that's what you want, it should not be an issue finding one.  

As @3M_Audio Glenn has mentioned, the rectangular ones can be fitted with with appearance panels.  These panels are somewhat of a unicorn but there is a set on Reverb .... been there for a while .... expensive:

https://reverb.com/item/86763175-carver-c-9-tx1-11-appearance-panels-rack-mount-ears-capable?bk=eyJhbGciOiJIUzI1NiJ9.eyJqdGkiOiJmNzhlN2QxNC1mMmEyLTQ5MzUtYjQ2Mi1iYzlkNDBhMjI1NGQiLCJpYXQiOjE3Njc4MDU5NzQsInVzZXJfaWQiOiIiLCJzZXNzaW9uX2lkIjoiNTBjZmZiNWMtZTI2Ni00MDg1LWEzYmQtNTY4NzYwZmI4NmIwIiwiY29va2llX2lkIjoiNjNiNTQzZDctM2MyMC00YzkxLWJiZWMtZjA1YWViMTIwMDhiIiwicHJvZHVjdF9pZCI6Ijg2NzYzMTc1Iiwic291cmNlIjoiTk9ORSJ9.-DoBPCo2a2NA7SKvBT8zNxHmPxXUjBbALN83aKfF2eI

Note: they don't have rack mount holes ....

Hope so!  Love spiders .... they hang in corners, eat all of the other insects, and leave me alone.

3 hours ago, Tekerman said:

I disconnected  a 3.3 k resistor (supposed to be a 5.1k in the schematic)

Easier to help if you refer to components by designation.  I'm guessing you are referring to R409?

3 hours ago, Tekerman said:

They tested fine. Also U* is supposed to go high on turn on and go negative shortly after. It does with the resistor removed but not in circuit.

So the output just stays high with the resistor in place?

Seems like C400 or C401 is shorted.  I think you are getting lucky that removing R409 makes it work, especially if "R408" is really a zener and not a resistor?

Anyway - check those caps .... one of them is bad.

I have/had various Topping DACs connected to various analog preamps.  Several of the streaming sources are computers (USB or optical out to the DACs), Firestick to TV optical out, or phone via bluetooth (this is my last resort).

Mostly streaming Amazon Music in High Def.  Considering moving to Apple Music as it's a reasonably cheap adder to Apple TV service.

Qobuz never worked for me because there is no app for any of the TV streamers (Firestick, Apple TV hardware, or Roku).  You need a computer or phone.  Not great for me.

Along came the WiiM Ultra preamp/streamer.  This changes the game for me.  One Topping DAC is for sale with another one following shortly.  If the WIiM had USB input or another optical input, it would replace all of my stand-alone low-end DACs.

Nice detail.  Great Job.  Thanks for the share.

Welcome!

Good luck with your re-works and mods.   Lot's of info here.

Welcome!

Awesome setup.

I don't listen to vinyl often, but I want the capability.  My units are kind of low end.

At my desk I have a Project AD Box S2 Phono.  It's fine for the $100 I paid for it.  Has an analog channel which can be digitized or passed thru.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-OSW2qtABAId/p_252ADPBS2B/Pro-Ject-AD-Box-S2.html

Good stories.

I bought my 2.5i a bunch of years ago from a guy who didn't have room for them in his new home. Mint condition, great price.  We listened to various artists in his living room before I packed them up .... some of his music, some of mine.

I could tell that he didn't want to part with them, but the bungalow style home had no permanent place for them. 

Also have 2 pairs of 1.5 bookshelves. Sycamore colored ones are on my desk/bench, black set is part of a 2.1 system I put together for my daughter.  Includes a m400 amp.

The 1.5 are sealed, same tweeter and mid as the 2.5, but no 8" driver.