BillD

Yeah, you know, if you had a house that had those floor registers, it would be easy to use the basement as your infinite baffle by giving up one coming from your furnace and using it..

Well, I have two powered subs. One is a Sunfire True Subwoofer Mk.II with the infamous 2700 Watt plate amp with a 10" woofer and passive radiator, and the other is an M&K MX-125 Mk.II with a 150 Watt amplifier with two 12" woofers in a push-pull configuration. Both are loud and low. I also have a pair of AR3a speakers that have blown midrange and tweeters, but I use the two 12" woofers as a subwoofer driven by an M-400 Cube below 80Hz. They sound really good. Normally the manufacturer sizes the amp to be enough for the sub. YMMV

Unless the crossover is doing more than simply separating the frequencies (high pass, bandpass and low pass), I'd just get rid of the crossovers altogether and bi-amp or tri-amp instead of putting all that expense into a really jazzed up passive crossover. You can get a good active crossover made (Marchand, for instance) that will even do some equalization (or you can make it yourself).

Did your guy say whether to use 4 or 4.7µF for that other cap. 4µF is kind of oddball. 4.7µF is a common cap.

I'd get those NP electrolytics from Parts Express.

You'll probably need an expert for that. Electronically, yes, but sound wise, I don't know.

There's nothing at Mouser or Digi-Key. You're gonna need to look elsewhere. Maybe Ohm can give you a pointer.

You didn't post a link.

Higher voltage is fine. If I were you, I'd try to find the value that was used in the latest build and use that.

Yeah, that picture looks different than the other one. I wonder why one is 4µF and the other is 4.7µF? Regardless, they should be the same. Here is a good replacement for the 4.7µF. And, if you want your loudspeakers to sound the same, both caps should be the same value! You could tie a 500µF and a 250µF capacitor together in parallel together to get 750µF and a 250µF and a 125µF to get the 375µF. All of those values are available at Parts Express too.

I probably shouldn't have been so cavalier in my statement. Non-polar caps are used when the capacitance gets so high that film caps become impractical. For instance the plats have two non-polar caps in them, one which should be replaced with a film cap (150µF) and one that probably cannot (450µF).

Yeah, the other was 4.7µF (sorry, my bad). If I'm seeing that photo correctly, the 375µF capacitor is in parallel with the 750µF capacitor, which would equal 1125µF. Rich, do you see it that way?

Polypropylene is probably the most linear of the poly caps. That 47µF cap in the middle (either grey or blue, depending on the photo should be easy to find a replacement for. The big 750µF cap, not so easy. Can't see the value on the one beside it, so no help there.

You might go to Parts Express and see if you can find some poly film caps that have the same ratings. Your speakers will sound a lot better. Parts Express carries a large selection of those caps for speaker builders

OK, the spools of wire are inductors. Those are typically fine unless a wire breaks inside the spool. Paper in oil caps (I have some in my old AR3a speakers that are disconnected) do dry out (I'm sure mine have since 1970). The are usually big and bulky things (not necessarily round, either).

Well, there usually aren't any electrolytic capacitors in "good" speaker crossovers. If there are, they are non-polar, because sound is by its nature AC. Other types of caps don't "dry out" like electrolytics.

I think the deal with MoFi is that they are consistent. You can get a really good CD and the MoFi version won't sound much better. You get a really crappy CD you want, look for the MoFi version. It will sound much better. As BluesMan said, they will sound closer to the vinyl.

Chris, where did you download it from. I have a copy, but Jag was asking about it, and I couldn't remember where I downloaded it from.

So, if I've got this right, the wax would be a positive (like the final record), the master matrix would be a negative (inverted grooves), the mother matrix would be a positive (i.e., playable), the stamper would be a negative (of course, it has to stamp records), and the final record a positive. 5 generations!

Steve, if you disconnect the interconnects, does it still do it? It could be RF out of the sub amplifier.

I have a rescue dog that's a Bichon-Poodle mix. He just goes wherever he is when he gets excited, but is good about going out when he has to pee, generally.

Yeah, those have to be inductor spools.

What preamp output are you connecting to your Audacity card?

Ax Robert says, the portable format is WAV. You can always convert Apple Lossless to WAV at any time. THe problem with the iTunes store is the usage protection they put on things. It makes it a pain to move around. What I've done is the old fashioned way, buy the CD and rip it. I ripped all my vinyl, too.

Mark, there is a reason to go with some lossless format and a player that plays it. For instance, I convert all my CDs to Apple lossless format. That way, I can store them in a library that is linked to a database that has the album artwork, the year of the specific track, it's full name, and many other useful things like its position on the album (disk number and track number). For classical music, you can have the conductor as well as the composer. For a big library, it's nice to have the genré of the music. All these are sortable to put together a playlist. WAV files can only have certain tags associated with them, and I know album artwork isn't one of them.