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Posted
Anyone here ever recap / rebuild the crossovers? All this talk about recapping makes me wonder about speakers...
 
 
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Posted

Well, there usually aren't any electrolytic capacitors in "good" speaker crossovers.  If there are, they are non-polar, because sound is by its nature AC.  Other types of caps don't "dry out" like electrolytics.

Posted
How do I tell the difference? They  seem to be attached to an increase or normal ,or decrease in tone??
 
There are also  two , what looks like to me , magnet wire windings...
 
 
Posted

OK, the spools of wire are inductors.  Those are typically fine unless a wire breaks inside the spool.  Paper in oil caps (I have some in my old AR3a speakers that are disconnected) do dry out (I'm sure mine have since 1970).  The are usually big and bulky things (not necessarily round, either).

Posted
Ok, Inductors? Please explain. I have a photo of what it looks like. I have two pairs of speakers, I don't know if this is the older pair but the other pair looks the same more or less but has bigger caps? There gray, the second photo. Note the Induction coils are botton left under that block of wood..20091128205445897.jpg
 
 
Posted

You might go to Parts Express and see if you can find some poly film caps that have the same ratings.  Your speakers will sound a lot better.  Parts Express carries a large selection of those caps for speaker builders

Posted

just looked there; you're out of luck on the 750uf caps, but that grey 4.7uf cap in the middle they should have a poly for

Posted
Whats that white thing on the right?  Well I will have to think, getting this thing out is going to be a challange, they are down at the bottom and glued to the box, then there are those coils, I'm not sure how to remove them either, also you cant work on them from the inside either..  emsad.gif
 
One more thing, are those resisters , ceramic things? do they need to be replaced also?
Posted

the coils don't have to be removed; the white gumdrop on the right is a cap; can be left. The tan rectangles are power resistors; they shou8ld be fine. The only thing you have to worry about are the nonpolar electrolytic caps

Posted
Ok, Just swap out the caps, Dose not matter which way they go in?
 
Here are some more pix, I can't believe I got it out in one piece..  Oh what is that thing that looks like candy, another cap that can stay right?
 
20091128231353586.jpg 

Posted
just looked there; you're out of luck on the 750uf caps' date=' but that grey 4.7uf cap in the middle they should have a poly for[/quote']
 
Why do you call it a 4.7?
Posted
the coils don't have to be removed; the white gumdrop on the right is a cap; can be left. The tan rectangles are power resistors; they shou8ld be fine. The only thing you have to worry about are the nonpolar electrolytic caps
 
I have been driving these pretty hard with two M400t amps for years, sure I only need the caps?
 
Also will these be good for 20 years also?
Posted
just looked there; you're out of luck on the 750uf caps' date=' but that grey 4.7uf cap in the middle they should have a poly for[/quote']
 
What kind of poly?
Posted

Here is another place for caps www.madisound.com/about/capacitors.php .  I use the Clarity SA  series of caps and changed the resistors to mundorf's in a pair of 25 year old Polk Audio 5B's a few months ago and I noticed a big difference in sound quality.  Even my daughter said they sounded way better then before.

Posted

Polypropylene is probably the most linear of the poly caps.  That 47µF cap in the middle (either grey or blue, depending on the photo should be easy to find a replacement for.  The big 750µF cap, not so easy.  Can't see the value on the one beside it, so no help there.

Posted
Well' date=' there usually aren't any electrolytic capacitors in "good" speaker crossovers.  If there are, they are non-polar, because sound is by its nature AC.  Other types of caps don't "dry out" like electrolytics.[/quote']
 
What kind of caps do you find in Plat crossovers?
Posted
Polypropylene is probably the most linear of the poly caps.  That 47µF cap in the middle (either grey or blue' date=' depending on the photo should be easy to find a replacement for.  The big 750µF cap, not so easy.  Can't see the value on the one beside it, so no help there.[/quote']
 
You guys are confuseing me, 4.7uf,  47uf???  They read like this:
 
750uf
50Vnp
Japan
 
375uf
50Vnp
Japan
 
 
CE
4uf 50V
For Audio
Crossover
+85c Ok
Japan
 
Ok edit to ad, I just noticed that the other pair has a 4.7uf cap , This pair has a 4uf cap, I wonder why..
Posted

Yeah, the other was 4.7µF (sorry, my bad).  If I'm seeing that photo correctly, the 375µF capacitor is in parallel with the 750µF capacitor, which would equal 1125µF.  Rich, do you see it that way?

Posted

 I am looking for these everywhere and am having no luck, ofcourse I have not a clue which is not helping..

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