jeffs

This is a great feature. I'm not sure everyone is aware of it. Assign a WiiM preset to an Amazon Music playlist (or Spotify or whatever). Now you don't need your phone to start streaming that list, just hit the preset button on the remote. My first WiiM is setup in my basement. I can go down there without phone, hit preset #1. If the WiiM is off, it turns on, it's output trigger turns on a power switch to a m400, and the music starts playing.

If the faceplate is banged up and the knobs are chipped and dinged - I would avoid it. If you are going to need to spend $100 more on an aftermarket faceplate, then why not spend that up-front on a $350 unit in nice/pristine condition? You won't be happy with the banged up cosmetics. Correct. IIRC the C-11 has a bit higher line gain, which should be lowered regardless of which unit you buy. Both are too high. The C-11 has a different Sonic Holography implementation. The C-1 face will match your m1.0t nicely.

Good CD for Sonic Holography

Bottom line .... I pushed the PRs and made sure the mids did their dance, threw them in the trunk and drove home. No issues. Will revisit the glue if/when I take them apart for wood veneering. FWIW these are Monitor 11A, which is more-or-less the same as the Monitor 10. Bigger box, different mid, maybe slightly different xover? These lived their last 10 years on the ocean .... I mean you could walk across the street straight into the Mystic CT Harbor. The MDF has absorbed a lot of moisture due to constant humidity. The drivers are in excellent shape. If I decide to keep these, I'm going to get a set of the RD-0194-1 replacements as I did for my brothers SDA2. I hope these can still be had directly from Polk? The existing SL2000 tweeters can be harsh and tiring. Maybe rebuild the crossovers with some quality caps as well. For grins I put one on a stand that I've had forever but never used. I think these stands hold 120 lbs. Dying to use them for something, but this won't be it. Anyway - well worth the $100.

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Correct - if they are still OK when I pick them up, my goal is to NOT disrupt them until I get a chance to glue them. JB Weld seems to be one option ....

Years ago I bought a pair of Polk SDA2 for my brother. Didn't know anything about them. Loaded them on their sides into my SUV. Drove an hour home. Tried them out. A few days later - loaded them back up and drove 1.5 hours to his house. Nice speakers. Today I'm going to pick up a pair of Monitor 10. I was bored yesterday and started reading up on them. Came across a magnet shift issue that may occur under various conditions .... a solid hit, or transporting them on their sides. Now I'm kind of paranoid about getting them home (1.25 hours). I know there are a few Polk experts out there. I will be able to transport them on their backs, which seems to be preferred. Would this be sufficient, or should I remove the drivers for transport? I do plan on glueing the magnets once I get them home. Thanks.

No. There are 2 versions of the C-9. One has a rack mountable face plate, the other is rectangular. The rectangular ones are more common, so if that's what you want, it should not be an issue finding one. As @3M_Audio Glenn has mentioned, the rectangular ones can be fitted with with appearance panels. These panels are somewhat of a unicorn but there is a set on Reverb .... been there for a while .... expensive: https://reverb.com/item/86763175-carver-c-9-tx1-11-appearance-panels-rack-mount-ears-capable?bk=eyJhbGciOiJIUzI1NiJ9.eyJqdGkiOiJmNzhlN2QxNC1mMmEyLTQ5MzUtYjQ2Mi1iYzlkNDBhMjI1NGQiLCJpYXQiOjE3Njc4MDU5NzQsInVzZXJfaWQiOiIiLCJzZXNzaW9uX2lkIjoiNTBjZmZiNWMtZTI2Ni00MDg1LWEzYmQtNTY4NzYwZmI4NmIwIiwiY29va2llX2lkIjoiNjNiNTQzZDctM2MyMC00YzkxLWJiZWMtZjA1YWViMTIwMDhiIiwicHJvZHVjdF9pZCI6Ijg2NzYzMTc1Iiwic291cmNlIjoiTk9ORSJ9.-DoBPCo2a2NA7SKvBT8zNxHmPxXUjBbALN83aKfF2eI Note: they don't have rack mount holes ....

Easier to help if you refer to components by designation. I'm guessing you are referring to R409? So the output just stays high with the resistor in place? Seems like C400 or C401 is shorted. I think you are getting lucky that removing R409 makes it work, especially if "R408" is really a zener and not a resistor? Anyway - check those caps .... one of them is bad.

I have/had various Topping DACs connected to various analog preamps. Several of the streaming sources are computers (USB or optical out to the DACs), Firestick to TV optical out, or phone via bluetooth (this is my last resort). Mostly streaming Amazon Music in High Def. Considering moving to Apple Music as it's a reasonably cheap adder to Apple TV service. Qobuz never worked for me because there is no app for any of the TV streamers (Firestick, Apple TV hardware, or Roku). You need a computer or phone. Not great for me. Along came the WiiM Ultra preamp/streamer. This changes the game for me. One Topping DAC is for sale with another one following shortly. If the WIiM had USB input or another optical input, it would replace all of my stand-alone low-end DACs.

Nice detail. Great Job. Thanks for the share.

Welcome! Good luck with your re-works and mods. Lot's of info here.

Welcome!

Awesome setup.

I don't listen to vinyl often, but I want the capability. My units are kind of low end. At my desk I have a Project AD Box S2 Phono. It's fine for the $100 I paid for it. Has an analog channel which can be digitized or passed thru. https://www.crutchfield.com/S-OSW2qtABAId/p_252ADPBS2B/Pro-Ject-AD-Box-S2.html

Good stories. I bought my 2.5i a bunch of years ago from a guy who didn't have room for them in his new home. Mint condition, great price. We listened to various artists in his living room before I packed them up .... some of his music, some of mine. I could tell that he didn't want to part with them, but the bungalow style home had no permanent place for them. Also have 2 pairs of 1.5 bookshelves. Sycamore colored ones are on my desk/bench, black set is part of a 2.1 system I put together for my daughter. Includes a m400 amp. The 1.5 are sealed, same tweeter and mid as the 2.5, but no 8" driver.

welcome. You won't find a manual specific to the older versions of the Sunfire Cinema amps. Mostly the newer owners manual will suffice ....... inputs and outputs are probably going to be in different spots, but clearly marked. Other than I/O the only other feature on the back is the on/auto/off switch which I believe works the same for all of the amps, so any description from another manual will do. The older amps do not have an external trigger input. If you need a schematic, you're likely going to be out-of-luck. I have 2 Cinema amps and the schematics here are not very close.

Transistors don't typically show that much physical damage. Looking at the schematic, the best case scenario for you is that C29 shorted, causing excessive current thru the diode and transistor. I noticed C29 is removed in one pic. If it measures shorted, it's likely the cause of the damage. The resistors in that circuit can get hot. Their proximity to the 1000uF caps can shorten the life of the caps. I would recommend replacing the 1000uF caps in that circuit, and mounting the replacements on the back of the board. Can alleviate future potential thermal problems with these caps.

I don't listen to CDs often, but Love Over Gold pretty much has a permanent spot in my home office 5 disc changer.

Interesting. With the other songs on that recording, I could never have guessed that would be the pick. I don't have a simple answer to this question. Some days I might pick "Dreams" by Fleetwood Mac, off the DVD Audio disc. On a more acoustic feeling type of day it could be "Trouble's What You're In" off Wheels Turn Beneath my Feet, by Fink, ....or "Keith Don't Go" by Nils Lofgren, acoustic live version. Most days it would be something by Dire Straits. "Private Investigations" is a good one .... maybe "You and your Friend" If I had to choose a vinyl recording it would be something off Dire Straits self titled album, probably "Six Blade Knife" or "In the Gallery"

I replied to this 3 days ago as it was posted in the main area as well:

Tidal certainly looks like the best option for Tesla. You would need the Tesla Premium Connectivity option which I think is free for a while, then $100 for an annual fee (or $10 a month). If you don't use Premium Connectivity for anything else, then you have to factor that in. I wanted to like Qobuz. I mean I really wanted to like it. Problem is that it's limited to phones, computers, and maybe some high-end streamers. There are no apps for Firestick, Roku, or Apple TV streamers. "Casting" is not a very good solution. I tried that with intermittent results and constant frustration. Amazon Music streams in HD on computers and Firestick streamers, reduced resolution on the other streamers. Doesn't answer your question directly, just my experience with some of the high resolution services.

The 901s and m1.5t is a good combo. I had it for a while and it can go big ......... problem is the 901s are not very good at lower levels (just my opinion). The front plastic bezel on the m500 can be polished with a succession of Novus 1/2/3 polish, from coarsest to finest, depending on the level of damage. There's probably a thread if you do a search

If you look at the service manual, the bulb looks replaceable. Item 53 in this diagram The schematic is not all that easy to read, but it looks like it's a 10V bulb? It's supplied by the top of the 3 regulators shown below. First step would be to find this lamp and put a voltmeter across the 2 terminals to make sure you have 10V. 99% likelihood it's the lamp, but make sure. Could be a shorted cap on the output of the regulator, or a bad regulator. Never seen one of these so take it apart, out if you can, take a pic and post it.