Will Meyer

Welcome! I also live in Washington; I'm north of you in Marysville.

I have a set of Silvers that I recapped about 3 years ago. I went with Metalized polypropylene caps (Solens). Cost at the time was about $300. The issue is for the values required in film caps, they end up being too large to fit under the back cover. I ended up installing saddles on the base board and running leads up to the crossover. Here are some pics, including one of the crossover before recap.

I liked them. Also BMG. I used to get their CD of the month; it broadened my exposure to different bands. I even did he reel to reel format.

My thoughts... On a tube amp, they make some sense, but the other Carver amps (maybe with the exception of the M-400), they are often stacked. I have an M-1.0t, M-0.5t, M-500t, and several of the TFMs; I can see any application from my perspective. I couldn't use them even if I wanted as the amps are always stacked. Does anone stack an M-400? There may be an application there.

Very nice!

That should work

I have a couple of these. I replaced the bulb with an led unit, it uses the same type as the M500 power amp. It does need to be soldered in place. Here is an eBay link to the type of led bulb you can use. https://www.ebay.com/itm/114348258893

Welcome George! I'm a fan of the TFM-6 amps, I have 3. I'm using one of them in a stack with an Adcom preamp in my bedroom system. The amp is simple and bullet proof. There are 2 versions, the TFM-6c and the TFM-6cb. The only difference between the c and cb if the ability of the cb to run it in bridged mode as a single 200 watt mono amp. The removable rack ears allow it to stack well with orher 17 inch gear (such as my Adcom GTP-450). Fitting the rack ears allows it to blend in with other Carver amps such as the TFM-25 or -35. Welcome aboard and enjoy the music!

I really like the idea of an updated C-9 with Gundry filter. My 2 cents, i'm not crazy about tubes sticking out of the top (although I could live with it). Items projecting from the top limit the user to placing them on top of the stack; like a turntable, reel to reel or top loading cassette. Mind you, it wouldn't be all that bad, as you could place it on the top of a mini-stack on a middle shelf. I'm definately interested in the V-12 when its released. I'd also buy a new SH processor.

Definately read up on the Dahlquist DQ-LP1. It uses a passive high-pass filter that you set by changing capacitors and resistors, setting to frequency you want. The Low-Pass filter is active but IIRC the upper threashold is 400hz and below. The DQ-LP1 is intended to drive sub-woofers (up to 4 without adding splitters). @jeffs and I made a project out of taking the DQ-LP1 design and improving the power supply and using modern components. We had the multi-layer boards custom made. Other than the board, parts cost including the transformer is about $100 plus the cost of a housing that you'd have to design and build. @jeffs did a very clever case using cherry side pieces and two 1u faceplates. I did a run of 10 boards. I have 2 left. If the DQ-LP1 will meet your needs, I will send you one. Please be sure that you'll be able to use it; after these last 2 are gone there are no more. Used DQ-LP1s regularly sell used for about $300, but the power supply is crude, the components are old. However the case is a awesome and dials are high end. The boards we had built are not designed to fit in the LP1 case. Our board is a bit bigger.

Got it. The passive High Pass filter uses the amplifier's input impedance in conjuntion with capacitors to set the high pass threshold and that input impedance varies depending upon the amp you use. For example, a TFM-35 has an input impedance of 47k ohms. A tube amp could be significantly different. The DQ-LP1's design requires changing the caps by removing the cover and soldering different values in place. Not condusive to rotating amps or speakers. I like the module idea - I'll use it in my next build. Thx

I've not seem that upgrade before but it looks like the center RCAs and accomplanied mini-circuit cards are wired into the passive hi-pass filter. So changing the card will change the high-pass threashold? For example: you can plug in a card and set the threashold at 100Hz, or switch it for another card and lower it to 80Hz? Neat idea!

Fyi... I can across this a few years ago when I was upgrading my JBL L100t speakers to the L100t3. The upgrade (T to T3) is considered a significant improvement amoung the JBL community. I've attached the technal manuals for the T and T3. As you can see, they are wired 180 degrees out of phase. Common industry practice is that a positive voltage will drive the woofer outward; however, on a T a positive voltage will drive the woofer inward. This was changed on the T3 and is noted on the bottom right of page 1 of the T3 technical manual. I've been told (I don't know this for sure) that early JBLs (pre T3 I'm guessing) were wired so that a positive voltage drives the woofer in. This shouldn't cause an issues when running just one set JBLs, but I would think that running them in chorus with other speakers or subs may yeild a phase imbalance. Does anyone know any details on this? hfe_jbl_l100t_technical_en.pdf hfe_jbl_l100t3_technical_en.pdf

I recently posted on a thread from @Dadvw regarding a blown plate amp and I mentioned a project @jeffsand I were working on for an active crossover that, while it is based on a Dahlquist DQ-LP1 design, incorporated a modern power supply, modern multi layer board with a ground plane, newer components, and a revised circuitry. Some background, I've been using the Dahlquist DQ-LP1 for years. There is a lot of info on the internet if you want to grab a copy of the manual and schematic. Like the C-1, it has a loyal following including hobbists that have documented numerous improvments over the years. I've collected a lot of info and can post it if desired. I drive 2 subs, a left channel and a right channel. Common practice is to use a mono sub as "low frequency is non-directional". I was watching a Paul McGowen video on multi subs and he addressed that the frequency of a sub goes from non-directional to directional - he strongly advocated dual subs. I researched the internet and you can't get a straight story, one of the prevalent therories is that LF sound is non-directionsl under 400hz since that is equivilent to the spacing between the average human ears. Sounds hokey to me. Here's what I know, I can run a low frequency signal and I can point directly to the sub. Maybe I'm just weird and have a thin head. IMHO, for 2 channel music, if you feel you need a sub then you want ideally 2 subs. One by the Left speaker and the other by the Right, each being fed by their respective independent stereo channel. Picture to follow of my layout (room size and layout is not perfect but you work with what you have). You'll see a set of Dahlquist DQ-SW1 subs, with JBL L100t perched on top of them. I use the preamp signal (4000t), and feed it into the Dahlquist DQ-LP1. The low pass signal (independent L and R) feeds a TFM-24, which feeds the SW1s. The HP goes into a TFM-42 and feeds the JBLs. The DQ-LP1 is an old unit. @jeffs and I (mostly Jeff) redesigned the DQ-LP1 (MY-LP1) to improve it. This was not and is not intended as a commercial project, just an interesting personel project. I can post more on the project if interested.