avguytx

Buy a new player and keep this for decoration. Many, many better sounding cd players. I ripped all if mine to a server so I don't even touch them anymore. Sometimes I ponder taking the guts if a newer player and putting in the DTL-200; but then I talk myself out of it as I don't care. I had a $1500 (msrp) Onkyo Reference CD player for a short time a couple years back. Sounded nice but never used it. Everyone is different though.

I've read in some other forums where people are putting in to return theirs. I am not a technician and cannot make claim to Amirs tests but, in looking the broad range of tested amps, and to see where this one falls, something is up. Can anyone else properly test one of these amplifiers or is that documented somewhere from an outside source? Was there something wrong with the one sent to him? I fully realize that we don't hear based on "specs" but somewhere the validity of that testing needs to be addressed. And that test coming from someone who is a Carver fan from way back. I think the world of Bob and have know him since the late 80's and was a Sunfire Rep with the company I was with (from 2001 till 2009) till they went under in 2009. We had various events in the territory called "A Night With Bob Carver" which were heavily attended. Not to mention I have a picture of him with my signed M-1.0t and also a DTL-200 that he graciously looked over years ago and helped to get working. He was always a pleasure to spend time talking with.

Yeah...90's rock but his name is Kip, too. ha

I run Klipsch Epic CF-3's on my Carver M-1.0t MkII Opt 002 (about 460wpc) and I love the way they sound. High efficiency around 100db/1-watt which is good for some serious volume yet the clarity is outstanding. Just my $.02.

Interesting...

I wish you could post pics from mobile. Sara Niemietz

Forever a Jouney fan..

There's a set of CS 1.2's locally to me I've deliberated on for $150. But, not really sure I need a small set of speakers when I own, and mainly use Klipsch CF-3's which aren't your typical Klipsch sound. But I do love the sound of a good set of two ways and have a lot of respect for Thiel. Yours turned out great! Kudos to you.

Yep. That's the one.

Cool speakers. I had picked up a pair of those at the Goodwill store in Denton, TX for about $30 a pair. They were missing one of the top grills so I fabricated a duplicate of it. The cabinets were a little rough and I eventually parted them out and sat the cabinets to the curb. The tweeters fetch a good price typically as they are unobtanium anymore. Mine went to a fellow in Germany. I always liked seeing those at. Store in Little Rock when I was a kid and drooling over them in the stereo magazines. There's a 4-way version that is sweet but I forget the model number.

You couldn't hear a dump truck driving thru a nitro glycerin factory... A classic and my favorite Christmas movie.

Typically, I never installed them (nor have I seen them) into a fuse holder type setup. They were soldered inline and either zip tied to a baffle or glued in place. Some others I have seen use a small 12V 1-amp light bulb and solder in in the same fashion. In my early car audio days, (mid 80's to mid 90's) it was always funny when customers would come back to the store and say they "swear they could see light coming from under their dashboards when they were jamming at night". It was those light bulbs in the crossover networks doing their jobs! haha

I'd be more inclined to use a small car interior light bulb like what ElectroVoice and other companies used inside of some of their cabinets. I had some Interface C's at one point and they used them in there plus many, many car audio companies use the bulbs in their passive crossover networks for dissipating any "overage" of current to save doing a lot of Return Authorizations for blown tweeters. They've always worked well and my Lightning Audio components use them, too. (as did many Rockford components) Just my $.02. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=260-231 My Norman Lab Model 9's used two manual reset circuit breakers in them but I completely bypassed them because they were a) tripping quite early, b) didn't make good connection and the sound would just quit at even low volume and, c) I could tell a major difference in the mids and highs once they were removed. To replace them was $10 each and I didn't care to do that. The only reason they were there was to keep customers from killing their drivers if they were under (or over) powering them.