xavionics

Welcome aboard!! My wife and I left Oshkosh last year for warmer weather. Looks like we picked a good winter to be absent! Enjoy the indoor time with some good tunes through Carver gear!

I don't have any original RCA jack assemblies left but I can help you with the binding posts for your TFM-6. I think these came out of a TFM-25. The tips of the threaded areas are crimped to make the binding posts "captive", which is to say they won't come out. With a bit of finesse combined with brute force you may be able to drive one into the threaded hole in the original assembly. PM me your address and I'll drop one (or more of needed) into a bubble mailer and send it to you. I'll get it out today if you do this before I get a shower and leave to run some errands.

Welcome to THE Carver Site! This is the place for all things Carver - and more. The m-200t would pair up nicely with a c-1 preamp. Nice, simple, visually matching setup that will do well. The c-1 is a long time favorite of many, including me. When searching for purchases on line, I would go into this with the expectation that the gear is now pushing 50 years old and should be serviced. Serviced by yourself, if you are versed in servicing electronics and possess the proper gear. Or, have a pro service it. I recommend Nelion Audio https://nelionaudio.com as Greg is very well versed in Carver and performs exceptional work. His prices reasonable and are very well worth the cost. You will then possess a system that functions as good as new, has a warranty, and will provide years of listening pleasure. I offer this as a starting point to open a conversation. The folks here will steer you in the right direction for you. Now, you did say "monster setup" didn't you?

Welcome to THE Carver site! You have many options. Depends on what your budget is and what your expectations are. (of course, we would LOVE to see you go full-monte and do a complete Carver/Sunfire setup) 1. Fix the QSC amps and continue as you were. Likely the cheapest in the long run. 2. Either do a refresh on the Sunfire amp or send it to Nelion. https://nelionaudio.com When you get it back, try it out in different configurations and judge for yourself, to see if you will want to dig deeper into the realm of OCCD. 😄 I can't speak to the Sunfire gear, but the Carver gear (and others) I have refreshed and/or rebuilt perform better, after some attention, than they did when they arrived on my bench. 3. Get a second Sunfire amp and have it refreshed, just so you will have a matching pair. (yep, we do that around here.) 4. Get a third Sunfire amp, so you can drive each single ML woofer with its own amp channel. (assuming each woofer is 4 ohms on its own) 5 Begin collecting other Carver, Sunfire, Phase Linear gear. Just 'cuz, well, its there... As for reliability of any of these 40+ year-old amps, anything can fail. Any brand. At any time. My 1988 Carver m1.0t started acting up about 16 years ago. Researching that problem lead me to this site. I rebuilt it myself and performed all the available mods to it. It was used in my main system since then. Or, at least until I gave it to my son for his 30th birthday (with the matching c-1 pre) last spring. Oh, and OCCD = Obsessive Carver Collecting Disorder. There is no cure, only management treatments. Lastly, Going active with the Martin Logans - sweet! That gotta sound good! Now get some good, powerful, musical, accurate electronics to drive the drivers... am I being too enabling?

You open with -biamping- , list a bunch of Carver and Sunfire gear, and turn tail and run? With active threads about active crossovers in the making? Dude, you've reached kinship here! Ya gotta tell more!

Sorry Bob, but I haven't bought a CD player in decades! I have an older Marantz model stashed away somewhere. Prior to that I had a 1994 vintage Yamaha carousel player that lost a sound quality shootout to my iPad. I use my 2009 MacBook nowadays when I need to spin a CD, fed into my DAC. Thanks for bringing this topic to the forefront! I gotta get some kind of a better solution, maybe later this year... A quick search led me to this: https://www.whathifi.com/best-buys/hi-fi/best-cd-players I have an ARCAM irDAC that has served me well for quite a long time. I would likely put their CD player on my short list. Already having a DAC, the Cambridge CD Transport would also (to me) be worth checking out. The few that I looked into all had external usb drive capabilities. Seems common. Crutchfield has a 60 day return policy. I've dealt with them in the past and have always been happy. Maybe a way to audition a few... You say your NAD is getting worn out - perhaps a good cleaning/lube and some new belts would be a cheap option? Good luck on your quest! Let us know how your jobber unfolds...

Congratulations on your success and welcome aboard, Bob! Please take a moment and tell us about yourself, your gear and your audio journey. When you've received a handful of 'thumbsup' comments, you will be able to attach pics. We all love Carver, of course, but also appreciate everything audio. There are several other members from The Buckeye State here. Pull up a chair, pour a beverage and crank up some tunes!

I was looking at the Wiim Ultra on thier website. $263.20 through Amazon. I've been looking for a preamp to go with my m400a for my office system. Looks like a perfect, affordable solution I thought! Just then, my enabling wife walked in and caught me... ...and forced me to add it to my cart!

Welcome to TheCarverSite Craig! Good to see another care stereo buff among us. I haven't had Carver car audio, but I got addicted to the A/D/S stuff in the late '80s. Had a chance to do some work on a M240 a few months ago but had to pass due to our relocating. Looks to be pretty easy to work on - and getting manuals seems to be the tougher part. Have fun and share your journey!

Here’s what I’ve been running for years: Sonos streamers. Several ‘Connect’ units. I upgraded my main system to their ‘Port’ unit which is an improvement in sound quality over the aging ‘Connect’ units. Simple interface - their app will run on most any mobile device. It supports Qobuz, Tidal, Pandora, internet radio, and will play files from a NAS. My main system runs the Sonos Port digital output through a separate DAC. An Arcam unit I’ve been quite happy with. All other Sonos Connects feed various preamps or receivers an analog output signal. The Sonos Port and Arcam DAC combined cost me around $1300 iirc. And then some experiments I’ve been involved in, in the pursuit of better sound: My $800 Arcam DAC vs a $1500 Mytek DAC shootout. As expected, the Mytek was the superior device. Not superior enough to make me run out and replace the Arcam though. Another shootout - the theory being ‘resident files’ (cd or ripped files) will sound better than streamed files ( in this case, streamed via Tidal using a wired connection). The setup - my 2009 MacBook - Mytek DAC - preamp - amp… We played several various cds through my MacBooks internal player, and streamed the same music via Tidal, again through my MacBook. In each case (and a bit to our surprise) the cds sounded quite noticeably better than the streams. We did not pursue any possible reasons why. It was enough of a difference that I ripped my entire cd collection to a usb hard drive for use at AXPONA 2024. In the end, I’m still streaming through my Sonos Port via my aging Arcam DAC. It works, is easy to use and it sounds good enough for now.

Welcome to the Carver site Chris! This is, indeed, “the place to be” for all things Carver (and more!). Thats a great combination of Carver gear - the m500t is a long-time site favorite. The c-2, while not as feature rich as the c-1 is a very capable preamp. If you are spinning vinyl (or have plans to dive into that pool too), the c-2 has a unique feature that allows for customizing cartridge resistive loading. Feel free to wander around. It a short time you will be able to add pics to your posts. We all love pics of all things audio.

Thanks for those audio treats guys! I’ll have to do some digging and add some new tunes to last years’ AXPONA playlist.

“ If you say you’re going to do something, do it! If you’re not gonna do it, don’t say you will.” -my Dad- My siblings and I (and my family) live by this code. It has served us all well.

+1 on this. Also, you can plug a cd player into the tape 1 input and then depress the Tape 1 Monitor switch. This would confirm (or eliminate) the rotary switch as the problem.

@wlmarI'm looking at the pic of the rear panel and it specs an AGC6 (6 amp) fuse.

Welcome to the site BLD2! I don't mean to sound dismissive, but it sounds like some switchology problem to me. Not to worry - those things can be damn hard to read. Sounds like you have the correct SOURCE selected if you are getting an output on the tape outputs. But if you have a Tape Monitor selected, it will not apply a source signal to the output. Just ensure ALL pushbutton switches are OUT (except Power of course) and you should be good to go. You can then change modes from there and play around with it. The manuals are in the library, accessed within the Manuals and Spreadsheets tab above. Just scroll down to the preamp section and there you will find the manuals for the c-1. That's a very popular combination you have there! Envied by many.

Cool project, not for the faint of heart! I have a pair of MGII’s that required a tweeter wire repair. i fixed the wire but never fixed the sock. i read a lot of articles about restoring these back then. Nowadays, they’re my ‘amp testers’ in my basement.

Welcome aboard LSD! I love the m400a, beautiful example of industrial packaging! Share with us what other gear you have. And when you’re able (soon) share some pics.

Welcome Adam!

Welcome aboard Eric! Tell us a bit about yourself… …and, of course, your gear!

Hey Kurt, Greg is exactly right. We get no free ride in this world. High efficiency High power handling High accuracy Pick any two... There's a phenomena in electric motors (and a dynamic driver is a motor) where the more physical resistance you apply to its motion, the more current (and less impedance) it will require to keep driving. OTOH, if you spin a motor externally (say, via a drill), the electrical power applied to the motor will require minimal current. As Greg stated, at around 50 Hz it seems common for a woofer to peak in resistance. If I have this correct, the reason for this is at this frequency, the mechanical desire for the driver to return to its neutral position is around 180 degrees out of phase with the electrical motors desire to move the voice coil. Think of it this way - a pulse pushes the cone outward. As the cone returns to rest, another pulse tries to push the cone outward at the same time. This second pulse needs more power - not only to produce the movement intended, but to counteract the opposing momentum the cone's mass has stored. OTOH, when the pulses are at such a frequency that they get the cone to 'bounce' - less power is required to create the cone's movement because the cone is already moving ahead of the pulse. So, very little effort is required and the impedance (resistance to the pulse) becomes less. This is the frequency where the driver's impedance dips to minimum. Unfortunately, you cannot engineer the driver/cone/motor/suspension/etc. to manage all parameters optimally. Gain, Like Greg stated, you gotta work with what ya got. There are other things going on as well. I think this would be a fun conversation over some adult libations. To illustrate all this: I bought a stereo 8-track player when I was in the 6th grade. It didn't take me long to build some external speakers with parts bought at Radio Shack. I know nothing of series or parallel connections. Two 7" full range drivers per enclosure were likely wired in parallel and connected to the internal amp outputs. There were certain musical passages that would put the speakers into resonance. It drew so much current that the power supply couldn't keep up and the tape drive would sag and slow down. I listened to one of these albums yesterday while working in the shop. I kinda chuckled to myself, remembering those days so long ago.

Time to clear some cobwebs out of that old part of my brain and see if I can put together an explanation…🥱 In an AC circuit, impedance is the total of resistance, capacitive reactance and inductive reactance. Resistance is just that - straight up, one value, resistance to the flow of current. Capacitive reactance and inductive reactance can be thought of as resistance that varies with frequency. Capacitive reactance varies inversely to frequency. Inductive reactance varies directly to frequency. There’s a nice little read here on this: https://byjus.com/physics/reactance-and-impedance/ Add to this, in the case of a dynamic loudspeaker: The woofer voice coil is an inductor. It’s “impedance” (inductive reactance) varies with frequency. Add to this mix, though, are other properties of physics introduced by the movement of this inductor within the magnetic field, the mechanical resistance to movement of the whole piston (VC, its former and the cone), resonances, etc., and the impedance becomes a curve rather than a simple value. Throw a passive crossover with capacitors and inductors into the mix, and, well, you have a system impedance with a “nominal” impedance rating that varies with frequency. That’s my simplistic view anyway. Hope it helps. Feel free to add and/or correct if needed.

Good morning Ron and welcome aboard! All manuals we have available can be found under the “Manuals and Specsheets” tab above. At the bottom of the window that opens, you will find tabs linking the brands available. Click on the Sunfire tab and look for what you need.

Welcome to The Carver Site Don! Looks like you had a bug of OCCD (Obsessive Carver Collecting Disorder) back in '87. It appears it's been dormant for entirely too long. We'll fix that! Pull up a chair and sit a spell. You'll fit in here just fine...

Cool story! My first real system was pretty good. Or at least I thought so, until I happened to enter a high-end shop in Hong Kong many years ago. The notion that you can actually hear a difference between different amplifiers was eye opening! Been chasing more accurate sound ever since. Nice system! 👍👍