Nahash5150

The LED sensitivity switch will allow the LEDs to 'bounce around' or respond, at lower volume levels. You really have to be hammering it to get the LEDs to respond from the factory. Here's a comparison: Here's the LED power estimates into 6 OHMS: Indicator - normal / high sensitivity LED 1 - 20W / 1W LED 2 - 42W / 2.5W LED 3 - 72W / 4.5W LED 4 - 185W / 11W LED 5 - 330W / 20W Sorry - I don't have it on the site yet.

Yes - I think they are. As for the pre-tubes - no idea. But I had to provide the AU's cuz Bill didn't send me any!

Thank you! Scrubbed down with demineralized water.

This is for @davidc. A typical dirty and rusty specimen! Decent shape. No severe burning so that's a great start. Tear down. Lots of dirt. I will take care of that rusty fan grill, and install a new quiet fan and turn down the speed to make it QUIET. Chassis cleaned up and tested. Had to replace some bad transistors. Typical. An LED sensitivity switch was requested, so I'm cutting one out here: Everything cleaned and rebuilt! New fan and restored grill: All back together: Best sounding 750W per cannel amp ever!

And a side-by-side: It's really hard to take pictures of this thing because it's like a mirror and I keep spotting myself in the shot!

Transformer out! Parts of this thing haven't been seen by human eyes for over 50 years! Looking simpler with the transformer wires out. Its out!!!! Transformers through the new chassis. This was HARD. Each transformer is so heavy, and the wires are stiff and don't want to move, so getting each one set over the holes - both the wire entry and screw mount holes, is a real challenge. Riveted and screwed in - still a lot of soldering to do. Almost done. New power cord, new fuse holder, and I had to wait for the new RCA jacks because the stock were pressed into the chassis and they ain't comin out. New Speaker Blocks as well: Tubes in, and initial testing. It only has 16dB gain and a max power of 40W per channel, so I was quite shocked at how much metal it takes to make that happen - lol Test result after some tweaking. Spec is 0.5%, and it stays below 0.2% from 1W to 45W so we're good. I can make the THD change based on were I put the 6L6 output tubes, so matching is a factor on this topology. Some cutesy pics: I can look back on it now and call it fun... But it wasn't. HAHAHAHA!

Miles Davis - SO WHAT

Billy Joel - Uptown Girl @1:27 Brilliant bridge. What a legend.

Tests great too!

C-16 (this was torture!)

Bad bad bad! Thankfully, only a fuse and a pair if output transistors are bad. I replaced the whole stage though. All back together! New meter bulb and meter check, the cover is back on, and now a bit of faceplate cleanup Before: After:

Not really typical. They fail as a result of a few things like a failed TDC, bad regulation (bad caps), cracked solder joints, abuse, etc. The problem is that Sunfires don't shut down from a fault - they just mute. So power stays active during a failure until it becomes a light show. The fuses rarely save the day...they only prevent complete meltdown (hopefully).

Yeah - 20 hours is at the low end of time. I will not make any money on this. I have bills like anyone else - it's not about making money, it's about being responsible with it. I have to be very careful what work I take. If a project gets too demanding of my attention, other clients suffer. And I certainly do not want a shop full of unfinished projects that are over a year or two old. I told myself I would not do that... Anyway, fxbill is a great salesman. Looks like I'm doing it. For team Carversite...here we go...

Correction - FxBill worked on it and he says it works...so...that is a bonus!

I may or may not do this...I'm having second thoughts. 'The guts just come out and go right into the new chassis...' Ha!!!!! It wouldn't be too bad if the transformers could just 'unplug' but they don't. Their wires travel everywhere...and that's real problem. There's no room for error - the wire lengths are precise. 3 transformers - each with 8 to 20 wires. All rivets have to be drilled out. All RCA jacks need to be replaced. The thing needs a severe cleaning and polishing. And the worst part - HUMAN HANDS. Previously worked on and it doesn't work. Worst problem ever. I'll need encouragement because I really want to say NO.