4krow

Wait wait, come back! I need to know the rest of the story. And yes, welcome to the place of Carver, where imagination is sparked.

Glad that you found us. i have little experience with these units except refurbishing some of them. Note: I am no technician just a parts changer for the most part, but I can say this>> The C-1 was heads and shoulders above the C4000 in terms of internal quality and ease of working on. The C4000 that I worked on ended up as a shame to my eyes and had to be completed by someone else on this site. Others may not have the issued that I encountered so there is that. What I am leading up to is that I would prefer to work on a C-1 before anything else, and from what I gather here, most people have a preference for it in general.

I remember many years ago when moving a set of large JBL 4343 speakers, that I first put down a mattress, and then laid the speakers on their backs. Gluing the magnets won't do much good if you can't center the magnets first. I would think that a solid adhesive like JB Weld is the way to go when you get to it.

Did somebody say C-9? That gives you friend status with me instantly.

There is much information for you here.

Those bulging caps look to be a warning shot to me. But if you go into this piece, it will benefit you to replace more than just these. Looks like someone already replaced the big caps, so that makes me wonder too. Now, it depends on what you are willing to do as far as the RCA jacks. Many of us here have replaced them something more sturdy. Personally, I use the RCA jacks from Manley Labs, but they can require enlarging the RCA jack holes to fit. Maybe not though. Anyway, it sounds like the jacks were already replaced, as they were able to be twisted? The jacks that Carver uses can't be twisted since they are connected directly to the circuit board. Properly tightened jack replacements won't easily twist either, but it sounds like yours weren't. Correction. I just viewed the photos, and it looks like these ARE original RCA jacks. What that means to me is that the jack lost connection right at the solder joint on the board, and that should inspected. If twisting the cable makes it work again, that is the problem.

In 5 minutes, I will be listening to the sounds of a table saw, sander and router. Sometimes they have rhythm.

Just ordered Pet Sounds by the Beach boys. Never heard it so this will be something new.

Not so much a specific kit, but maybe a BOM. 1) 2 ea.- Nichicon Muse bipolar 22uf, 25 volt capacitors 2) 3 ea.- 1uf, 25 volt Nichicon electrolytic capacitors 3) 4ea.- 1,000uf, 25 volt Nichicon FM electrolytic capacitors. Make sure that the caps are no taller than 35mm. 4) 1 ea.- possibly a red or blue led if you damage the original getting it out. 5) 1 ea.- 680pf MLC capacitor That is just off the top of my head. And if you want to replace the RCA jacks, I use Manley Labs for all of mine, but you have to clip the washers so that they don't interfere with the next jack or the circuit board. It is a tight fit, but well worth the effort. Oh yah, while your in there it is pretty easy to replace the AC plug with a snap in AC inlet. Then you can cap the hole for the original AC inlet. This allows you to use a detachable cord if you want to do that. After all of the units that I have rebuilt, it just seems automatic to do these as a basic upgrade of sorts.

Speaking of sources (and the fact that you have a lot of CD's), A CD ripper can be a great investment. I did it with a used BluSound unit, and for whatever reason I think that the ripped version sounds just a bit better than the original. Don't ask me why. The best part for me is that I can quickly access any album and sometimes I will do my own mix as I listen. That is something new to me and a lot of fun. The very best audio source that I have ever heard was basically a computer programmed for just that purpose by someone who really knew his stuff. Right up there with magical. The downside for a guy like is that I found it cumbersome and slow.

OK, that is my cue. Does a C-9 sound better than itself after recapping? I like to think of it this way. It will sound like it did when new and not so much like 40 years later. There are times when I believe that a rebuilt unit sounds better than an original, but I will say that seems to be more about some sort of synergy rather than a guarantee. The real question that I put out there is why would you use RCA jacks for a signal connection when you could upgrade considerably for another $20? The recap itself is also inexpensive at maybe $10-13 dollars. Actually pretty much of a guess there, but not over $15. There are a lot of other upgrades that can be done as such, but on one hand, I don't think that there is a large difference in sound. OTOH it still only costs maybe another $60 or something. In the end, I ask, doesn't it make sense to spend maybe $110 and get a unit rebuilt to last another 40 years? I could go on, but that is pretty much what I want to get across here. It isn't a very big investment in the audio hobby for this service. And if your good with a soldering iron, most of it could be done by yourself. I would even talk you through it. Welcome to the site

It looks like you jumped head first into this arena. There must be a way to consolidate all of it. Is that your question? I wish that I could help, but this is the opposite of what I think about in audio. Because of that, it is a losing battle for me in some ways just having audio on vinyl and some streaming capabilities to hear new music.

This may not compute but I have a hard time reading your post with all of the broken paragraphs.

HFR, Welcome to the site, and yes, I remember you. The KEF speakers were the thing that made most curious about your system. Couldn't be happier that worked out the way it did. When it comes to recordings, there so many out there that have surprised me through the C-9. I be at a loss to name them all. Some are downright scary.

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