danowood

Born to be Wild --- Steppenwolf

I couldn't attest to material used but am sure it's a film capacitor, but it must be some trade secret as to what they use for dielectrics, tantalum, silver mica, snot? My guess is probably double layered. Don't know. They seem to be snobbishly into high end only. http://soniccraft.com/ In further research (the Capacitor has PET #####) PET stands for Polyester. Another article has a lot of info on it in regards to the types: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Types_of_capacitor#Film_capacitors

Just received the capacitors today. I could tell just by the weight of the package that these weren't no ordinary capacitors. Probably over kill, but impressive all the same. Look at the difference from the Jensen capacitors that were in it compared to the replacement ones. On the left are the 2.7uf and on the right are the 8.0's. Dang, going to have to make up something different as the Jensen capacitors were tucked under the connecting board on the back of the cup. There is no way these are going to fit on the cup, without some ingenuity, and probably will need to attach a piece of Plexiglas to the back of the cup to mount the capacitors. Any ideas?

you have discovered one of my many weaknesses and the lackadaisical use of spell check Kinda like the difference between supressing and suppressing I suppose......

BTW LOL being a bachalor for the past 21 years have it's advantages sometimes. I get away with cluttering the house up, and working on things inside that sometimes I should be doing outside, but then again, I'm the one that has to clean it all up when I'm done But at least I don't have to hear the nag Won't be long, after I get my family room finished, I'll bring in the house cleaners, they're cheaper than a wife

sherwin williams medium Rub Lacquer. Thats mostly what I use. I haven't lightly steel wooled them down yet and then appied wax. The pic of the speakers in the garage is from the fog of lacquer spray, but it doesn't affect the finish much. It's a low sheen lacquer finish. It's shinnier than it would normaly be, but I shot about 7 or 8 coats, steel wooling them down between coats. I'll either brown bag rub them down or use steel wool lightly rubbing them down to dull the shine a little more then wax them down. Thanks for your back slap. Hi five!!

Decission finally made, after recomendations from an engineer from Sonicraft I have decided to go with the Auri cpas for the tweeters and the AudioCap theta's for the mids on the crossovers. The Auri's were about 18.00 a pop each and the Thetas were 48.00 a pop each. I also paid a couple extra bucks each for Level 2 matching within .5% of each other. Last phase is to recap these puppies and install new gold plated bannana plugs on the cups and put these things back together and then out the door. Will include final pics when done with them.

Auri caps are good, and the price range on them aren't terribly bad, just not sure with the Jensen speakers if it's getting the value of the caps out of it. I also am looking at sonicaps premiums which are a little less costly but are suppose to be good quality. Do you have any idea of the comparisons? 8uf for tweeters and 2.7uf for mids.

I am becoming more aware of the differences in capacitors, their materials, and uses, and brand names. The purpose of it's use etc. types and use in electronic circuitry, amplifiers, and speaker crossovers cause an array of smorgessboards that are overwhelmingly confusing. There are several different types, polarized, non-polarized, ceramic, Polypropylene, foil- oil bathed, on and on. There are different types of crossovers, passive, active, etc. Really becomes confusing. For the purpose of using in a passive crossover, whereas most crossovers are used in passive configuration such as the one I'm working on. Such and article is this: http://www.10audio.com/sonicap_oimp_multicap.htm and for those that understand the principal workings of a capacitor (which amdmittingly is over my head) this tidbit http://www.audioholics.com/education/loudspeaker-basics/the-loudspeaker-crossover/the-loudspeaker-crossover-the-brains-of-your-system-part-ii-page-2. Finally Brand names seem to play a role in the best game play. Different brands are made differently and supposedly have different sounds, each bemoaning theres are superior. And of course a big difference in prices from 2 or 3 dollars compared to as mush as up to 75.00 for a capacitor, with both having the same uf ratings. The ones in the installation I'm re furbishing are I believe are Jensen capacitors which to my knowledge aren't available any longer (however, there is a Jensen in Denmark that claims to make them and are very proud of their handmade capacitors, charging 50 to 75 bucks a pop). Solen makes reasonably price capacitors but do the offer a comparable sound quality to The German made mundrof, rtx, and many others. Anyone here have experience as to what is reasonably the best to use in a passive xover, that are not overly expensive as the above mentioned brands. It would not be wise to use capacitors that costs far more than the speakers used in a system, it would not improve their performance beyond what speaker can perform I suppose.

Welcome to the Carver site, where you will find very helpful and enlightening people discuss everything from technical issues to all kinds of equipment. You have started out with some very nice gear. I too have the C-1 and a m 1.0T. Welcome aboard, and enjoy the ride

It always amazed me how close to Hendrix he is. These two songs played side to side are eerily Hendrix

LOL I passed that stage over 10 years ago, now I'm in a stage of IDGAS (I don't give a Shitz)

Welcome, your amoung many member with OCCD which there are no cures

Congrats

Impressive looking. WOW power hungry, wonder what the power requirements would have been if they would have been an 8ohm system. They are rich looking for sure.

Looking to do something to protect the speakers on a system I'm putting together for my daughter a few months from now. Even thought she will be using a carver m 1.0t with a c-1 amp, the weak link will be a pair of Jensen LS6's. I think they are rated 80 or 100 watts. What do those savey on here think of these and will it diminish sound quality (not that the L6's are that great. They have them as low as 50W and as high as 300W I believe. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-Speaker-Protectors-Automatic-Circuit-Breakers-100W-/300375965977?pt=US_Speaker_Parts_Components&hash=item45efcd8119#ht_3334wt_1141

I'd offer up my ex wife but I like you guys too much Hee Hee

I no longer have the Clarifier that was put on as a roadshow like Rich I had problems with one of the people testing it and it must have worked so well he decided to keep it forever, after a few years of broken promises to return it to me I gave up hope of ever seeing it again. Man that sux, I would hate to think anyone of the Carver site is less than an honest trusting person. I would never do someone like that, especially when they are doing a favor some people though

thanks for the imput guys, still, does anyone know if there is a benefit to clarify a blank disc before doing a recording?

Thats not good business practice on their part. Part of the trend conversation was how it worked, and since I found this explanation; whether it is adherently honest I have no clue. <Quoate> The Bedini Company claims that, "with its patented Electro Magnetic Beam Configuration, the Clarifier polarizes the polymer in such a way as to maximize the laser's ability to retrieve stored data." Although I would never claim to be a technical expert -- I am a music lover, performer, and critic who has developed the ability to hear subtle differences in sound, and has a clear sense of what live, unamplified music sounds like in various venues -- I found this explanation incomplete to say the least. I therefore conducted several e-mail exchanges with Gary Bedini in which I asked him to explain, among other things, (a) what the "beam" was of which there now two, (b) what the whirling accomplished, and © why the unit did what it did. After conducting several e-mail exchanges with Gary Bedini, I ended up with the following information: �The Dual Beam runs opposing beams (specially configured magnetic structures) that oppose each other at the base of the motor. �Extensive research has gone into the development of this product. Although the disk does hold electrostatic charges just from normal operation, it is also degraded from the manufacturing processes as well. We have incorporated a highly specialized electromagnetic beam(s) configuration to process the disk, as well as centrifugal force to achieve the ultimate treatment. �It is apparent that electrostatic charge alters the polymer�s configuration and causes the laser�s light to diffract while reading the bits of information encased in the disk; thus more error correction is employed to compensate for this effect. This means that the CD has more noise, causing reduced clarity and degraded sound to the specific tones of the original recording. By simply removing the electrostatic charge it will not re-align the crystalline structure of the polymer composition which causes the diffraction.� If you would like to know if I find this explanation adequate, the answer is that I do not. However, I confess that I am not prepared to sacrifice my unit for the highest good, dismantle it, ask technical experts on the Secrets staff to spend untold hours using sophisticated measuring devices to come up with an incontrovertible explanation for why the device works, and then buy another unit. Instead, I have decided to trust my ears. The bottom line is, what I and everyone who has ever joined me in listening to a CD before and after Bedini treatment have discovered is that using the Bedini makes a huge difference in sound quality. I may not be able to explain how the device works, but I am sure that it does. Testing on DVD-Video As noted above, Bedini claims improvements in DVD sonic and picture quality. Alas, I was only able to test claims for sonic improvement. I�ve got a great audio system, but my DVD-video setup consists of a cheapie Pioneer DVD-V player modified to accept a detachable powercord. (I�m currently using a Shunyata Python.) While the digital signal is carried via a Nordost Silver Shadow RCA to BNC digital cable to my Theta Gen. Va DAC, video goes through standard video cabling into a cheap Radio Shack unit and then into an 18-year old (at least) 19� Quasar TV which, most of the time, resides in my closet. Sometimes the TV works fine, and sometimes it doesn't. Hence, I can do a fine job evaluating sound quality, but I leave evaluation of picture quality to others on the Secrets team. I can tell you with surety that the sound of DVD-Video improved dramatically after using the Bedini. While the picture may have improved as well, I�d need better cables and a TV monitor on less than its last legs to say for sure. Conclusion The Bedini Dual Beam Ultraclarifier, which treats DVDs, CD-ROMs, and Photo CDs as well as audio CDs, works wonders on sound. For the mere two or so minutes it takes to fully treat a disc, the improvements are striking. IMHO, the resultant improvement in sonic performance is the equivalent of adding several bits of resolution plus increasing the sampling rate. If you�ve never before used the Bedini Dual Beam Ultraclarifier, you owe it to yourself to give it whirl. If you give it an honest try, I believe you�ll be amazed at the difference it makes. In fact, I think it quite possible that you will find it indispensable.

Hey all, was reading up on older topics and posts in Re: Bendini Clarifier by Snow. I am curious if it works well, and if it would be advisable to clarify an unburned CD or DVD ( I assume it works on DVD's too). Would you get a better copy or burn on a clarified disc and of course clarifiying the source you are copying if burning from another disc I see to they have newer updated versions that are much more expensive than the hand held version.

Welcome to the site WOW What an impressive resume of experience you have. Good tip on the ebay stuff, but beware, many don't pack the stuff right and it gets damaged in shipping, and then things get sticky from there. I've been burnt on a couple of items. Even though you pay for the shipping, the shipper will only address retribution with the sender; so it's advisable to have the sender ship it out in your name, (as you were shipping this item to yourself to your home address). Last amp I bought had the faceplate bent on the edge and the rack handle marred, he didn't pack it right. Still having to deal with it, I probably will come out on the short end as usual. Yea, I could send it back for full refund, but will not get the return shipping cost recovered. Had that happen before with a tt that was not as described and had issues not functioning as described. I looked in my area on Craigs list, but only found a Carver PM350 available for 200 bucks. Might want to try that, at least you can check it out, and not have to ship it and chance it being damaged when received. Again, welcome to the site, there are so many here that are so full of knowledge and are very helpful. Great bunch of guys here.

Frankly my dear, I don't give a Damn....... Clark Gable, Gone with the Wind.

I agree whole heartedly with you Rich. I do not believe that Allah, or the Muslim's God would approve of mass killings or dying a Martyr and give you a thousand virgins, or go along with marrying adolescent children to perverts. I do however, believe in the Christian God, and disapprove of the unthinkable disconnect between the U.S. Government, lack of political values, and the faith which this country was founded upon. Of course there are no greater occurrences on a subject than religion and politics.