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Wow. Congratulations. Not many around here can lay claim to a successful CT-17 repair.

Apple Music will still rip CDs into MP3, Apple Lossless, AAC, AIF and Wav formats. I prefer FLAC. Flac is lossless without fooling around and is pretty much universally accepted. I've run FLAC with Sonos, Cambridge Audio and various Logitech devices. My preferred software has been dBpoweramp. It can get confusing to use (or maybe I'm just easily confused), but it rips quickly, retrieves album art and sets all the track, artist, genre, album and other tags properly. If you dig into the details, it will even set the file name as you please. Free 21 day trial. The about $50 to buy. I bought my copy well over 10 years ago and they are still updating it. Strongly recommend you fool around with it before ripping 100's of CDs. File naming, tags and directory structures can get tricky depending on your player. Worst thing is to rip 100 CDs only to get smart and realize you have to di it again. dbpoweramp.com

@bluebrit Very impressive. I've sent a PM pretty much begging you for more. 😃 Thanks for these two. I'll get them posted to the library sometime today.

Peppy -- Welcome to the site. We've got a lot of reading that should keep you busy. Don't forget to check out the manuals library. There is a fairly complete collection of Sunfire documents.

Jeff, Welcome to the site. Sorry to hear your CT-17 is having trouble. Your symptoms are fairly typical. The CT-17 is known to have some poor solder joints on the display board. The display board is actually two boards sandwiched together. Several studs are used to hold them together and to pass signals from one board to the next. For some reason these studs were soldered in place separate from the components. Often the joints will oxidize and provide poor/intermittent connections. Add this to all the 30 year old small caps that may or may not be bad and you've got a major puzzle on your hands. There is a terrifying level of disassembly necessary just to get to the display board. Beware. Some folks have had success focusing just on the display board solder joints and replacing the caps on the display board. Others, not so much. There are a lot of caps in the CT-17. In any case, it's not for the the novice. You may want to consider sending it to a pro. Search around in the preamp sections of the site here. You will find several posts about the CT-17.

Welcome Mark. I think you'll find a lot of information here directly applicable to your system. Check out the manuals. They are at the top of the page under "Manuals and Specsheets". We have manuals for Carver, Phase Linear, Sunfire, Lightstar and Bob Carver Corp. Lots of service manuals with schematic too. All free.

Welcome back kloneman. Sorry about the mixup in your previous account. As you can see, the new platform is a great improvement.

Unfortunately we don't have a schematic for the TS MK IV. We have them for the TS EQ and the TS Junior, but no MkIV. Here's a thread that offers several tips. In general, the TS MK "X" subs are full of bad capacitors. Problems with hum, auto on/off, strange pops and clicks are common. A good policy is to replace them all except the two big ones mounted to the front panel. If you want to cherry pick, a good place to start are the low voltage power supply caps in the corner of the bottom board, mounted next to all the hot resistors. There are also four smaller caps clustered together on the preamp board, that are among the first to go. BE CAREFUL. The big high voltage supply caps hold a charge for a VERY long time. Best to check them and discharge them before touching anything. They can and will deliver a serious shock that can blow the tips off screw drivers, burn body parts and leave you with numb hands or fingers. Here's a post that may help. There are other, look around.

I'm only about 20 minutes from USA Tube Audio. Is there something I can do? Maybe go to the showroom and ask for a RAM 285? Pretend to buy a 350? Request a demo of the Crimson 275? Let me know.

Say what???

Sorry no YouTube links. Currently listening to Tidal. Searched for Jimi Hendrix. They have a Jimi Hendrix radio play list. Good grief. Very little Hendrix, but if I had that playlist when I was 19, life would have turned out a lot differently.

Your post sparked my interest in ASR again. I took a deep dive into both the 275 and the M-1.5 threads this morning. The BS is so deep over there I had to take a shower.

Much ado over nothing. Below is a view into the IEC socket of a Sunfire Symphonic Reference amp. Note the missing ground pin. Fuse has since been repaired, right @PMAT

Been there. Done that. Bet it doesn't happen again.

Is the noise present with no amp connected?

One easy thing to do is check for leakage between the primary and secondary of you transformers. Based on the schematic, you should be able to just check it with an ohm meter. There should be infinite resistance between primary and secondary. What size are the caps? ESR is often a good clue when tested in circuit, but far from a definitive test due to potential interference from other components. From the photos, the look like ceramic caps -- very unlikely to cause problems. Simple resistance measurements across each cap (both polarities) and a comparison with a good board may reveal something. Diodes can be leaky. It might be useful to look at the drop across each one with you DVM in diode mode, then compared with a good board. Other than that, a through inspection of the board and solder joints would be in order. I know every time I start thinking I'm good at soldering, I discover a bone head solder joint I'm responsible for. Good luck.

Contact Greg. Send him a PM @Nahash5150. I know he has a bunch of fans -- if the fire didn't get them.

This play list was put out by the Arizona AV Club today. We aren't under quarantine yet, but a lot of the old farts in Scottsdale are staying home listening to tunes.