Nahash5150 10,760 Posted September 21, 2015 Posted September 21, 2015 Any questions regard the speaker build. Please share your tips/tricks or problems here.
oldtexasdog 2,458 Posted September 21, 2015 Posted September 21, 2015 Will this be OK? Clearance inside the box is what concerns me.
oldtexasdog 2,458 Posted September 21, 2015 Posted September 21, 2015 Better yet? During stuffing it could get pushed down.
martin1970 361 Posted September 21, 2015 Posted September 21, 2015 3m 130c Also known as rubber splicing tape is exactly the width and makes a perfect insulator if you stick it to the bottom of the resistor 2
Nahash5150 10,760 Posted September 21, 2015 Author Posted September 21, 2015 Put a dab of silicone under it so that the vibrations don't break the leads off. 2
LVMAN777 352 Posted September 21, 2015 Posted September 21, 2015 Dap 00684 Dow Corning Clear Silicone Rubber Sealant 2.8-Ounce
Nahash5150 10,760 Posted September 21, 2015 Author Posted September 21, 2015 FYI: The kit comes with black RTV silicone. 2
Nahash5150 10,760 Posted September 21, 2015 Author Posted September 21, 2015 3m 130c Also known as rubber splicing tape is exactly the width and makes a perfect insulator if you stick it to the bottom of the resistor This stuff is a MUST for any bench. I use it all the time.
loner_t 2,568 Posted September 21, 2015 Posted September 21, 2015 It is 5W/16ohm resistor, so expected to carry almost 9A. Is there enough room to move the resistor from the top of the inductor and put it next to each other with a bit of clearance for air flow. Insulating the resistor leads with sleeves to be soldered to the inductance in parallel will provide some isolation. The sleeves could be replaced by using the same 3m/130c tape wrapped around the resistor legs. I am trying to think of five+ years after use. The other factor to consider is that quarter of the resistor surface area will be covered by tape if they are on top of each other reducing heat dissipation a bit.
martin1970 361 Posted September 21, 2015 Posted September 21, 2015 FWIW, I've done electrical connections in wet locations underground and taken them apart 10 years later and the 130c was like new and not brittle. I don't expect the resistor or inductor to overheat before the woofers smoke as that was what died first in our torture test. 4
Nahash5150 10,760 Posted September 22, 2015 Author Posted September 22, 2015 Quote It is 5W/16ohm resistor, so expected to carry almost 9A. Is there enough room to move the resistor from the top of the inductor and put it next to each other with a bit of clearance for air flow. Insulating the resistor leads with sleeves to be soldered to the inductance in parallel will provide some isolation. The sleeves could be replaced by using the same 3m/130c tape wrapped around the resistor legs. I am trying to think of five+ years after use. The other factor to consider is that quarter of the resistor surface area will be covered by tape if they are on top of each other reducing heat dissipation a bit. You would only be covering the bottom of the resistor with the tape. The resistor is in parallel with the inductor, so the vast majority of current to the drivers will be delivered through the copper windings, not the resistor. The resistor will only see portions of the signal that the inductor begins to resist, which would be high frequencies that the ribbon itself will see most of. So your current calculations need to consider that the resistor is also in parallel with the rest of the network and ribbon. It also seems a bit extreme to expect 9 amps across that resistor - that would take 189Vrms (16 ohm resistor + 7 ohm driver network) which only a 4500W amplifier could possibly do. 1
pindrop 330 Posted September 22, 2015 Posted September 22, 2015 Gary(TNRabbit) said a Sunfire 400x7 could blow the woofers, but Bob said in his talk that they stayed linear @45volts 20to20khz 506 4ohm watts. What will my M1.0t mkll opt2 do to them? 1
martin1970 361 Posted September 22, 2015 Posted September 22, 2015 We played them very loud for quite some time. When they did blow, it was one woofer. The entire chassis was hot. When Jazzman and I removed the woofer, it was so hot you could barely touch it. I'd suggest that if you decide to play them absurdly insanely ridiculously loud, check and see if they're hot to the touch. If so, turn them down and let them cool a bit. Oh, and the 400~Seven is 800 4 ohm watts. This stereo pair was running on two 400~Sevens with one other channel on each driving a paralleled pair of 15" woofers. 3
loner_t 2,568 Posted September 22, 2015 Posted September 22, 2015 Thanks for your insights, Greg and Martin. It will take a lot of work for me to deliver 4500W. I agree 9A s is the extreme, but I was looking at the worst case. Martin.. I am glad to hear of a torture test, thanks. 1
martin1970 361 Posted September 22, 2015 Posted September 22, 2015 Quote Thanks for your insights, Greg and Martin. It will take a lot of work for me to deliver 4500W. I agree 9A s is the extreme, but I was looking at the worst case. Martin.. I am glad to hear of a torture test, thanks. Just so you know, it wasn't intentional. We were just jamming. Surprising that they sound great all the way to destruction. No one else realized that they blew. I just happened to be closest to the right speaker. It was the top right driver that went. (the one on the right in this pic) 1
Nahash5150 10,760 Posted September 22, 2015 Author Posted September 22, 2015 Gary(TNRabbit) said a Sunfire 400x7 could blow the woofers, but Bob said in his talk that they stayed linear @45volts 20to20khz 506 4ohm watts. What will my M1.0t mkll opt2 do to them? An M1.0t opt002 is basically a 500W amp into 4 ohms (about 900W dynamic). It certainly has the power to blow them, as well as most other bookshelf speakers with no problem at all. The good news is that these speakers are efficient and fill the room with sound way before 45V (506W into 4 ohms) gets pushed at them. Like any speaker of its size, use caution! 3
B-Man 4,781 Posted September 22, 2015 Posted September 22, 2015 I will offer a few ideas from my experience with putting one of four together : 1. I insulated the 16Ω resistor by putting a layer of 3M electrical tape on the bottom of it. I placed it firmly on the coil, soldered them together and then applied a dab of silicone to mechanically bond them together. 2. I applied a dab of silicone to each of the caps on the crossover, as well as under the coil. Again, I am concerned about mechanical stability so a little silicone seems like a good idea to me. 3. When you assemble the end caps, leave the screws holding the drivers loose. Install the brackets for the end caps and leave those screws loose as well. Test fit the end caps and determine what orientation works best to allow you to start all four screws by hand. Put a piece of tape on the cap, mark it for polarity and then apply the silicone sealer to the edges. Go ahead and put a decent amount on, using your finger to make a nice bead and install it. The excess wipes off the powdercoat easily with a paper towel. Mine required starting the screws before actually seating the cap. 4. Be sure to use a large enough iron so you don't have to hold it on the speaker terminals for very long when soldering the wiring together. 5. When you insert the fiberfill, I would take it outside. Those little fibers get EVERYWHERE and are very hard to see. 2
oldtexasdog 2,458 Posted September 22, 2015 Posted September 22, 2015 Does this look OK for the crossover?
TNRabbit 371 Posted September 22, 2015 Posted September 22, 2015 Does this look OK for the crossover? The yellow wire goes to the woofers...looks like the one on the left has the yellow going to the ribbon?
loner_t 2,568 Posted September 22, 2015 Posted September 22, 2015 Is this CarverAudio Sonorous Link ok to post here?
Nahash5150 10,760 Posted September 22, 2015 Author Posted September 22, 2015 Yes of course it is. Two forums, one family. Some on the porch, others in the living room - same house. 2
oldtexasdog 2,458 Posted September 22, 2015 Posted September 22, 2015 Optics perhaps as they are both wired the same. Small wire to the right and above that looks like it might be connected is getting trimmed. Thanks for the response.
sea 675 Posted September 22, 2015 Posted September 22, 2015 Yes of course it is. Two forums, one family. Some on the porch, others in the living room - same house. Well said, Greg!! 2
oldtexasdog 2,458 Posted September 23, 2015 Posted September 23, 2015 All I had with my kit was Red-Black and Yellow wires. I had some blue on my bench. I am now at the third woofer and a little confused?? I have subed black for violet on the first two and left black for ground also. I am on track but stopped at the third woofer. I am looking at going from the positive on the top left (blue) to the positive on the right woofer correct?
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