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Zoom last won the day on July 29 2014
Zoom had the most liked content!
About Zoom
- Birthday 05/15/1970
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Michigan
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Brett
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All things automotive
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Very nice clean setup. Welcome to Carversite, sir. That 500 has to sing with that clean analog signal.
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Thanks very much for the legwork, sir. I also learned a ton about digital to analog processing here at Carversite, the weakest link in my system at the time. This does beg the question, what streams /stores the best resolution digital and what can be some restrictions (including even network / home WiFi routers etc.) I will also add this to my followed threads. Thanks again.
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$10 the mids are better. They even look better. Imho AT mids suck at low volumes. But I didn’t buy lots of Vegas for low volume. I have three pairs of DCMs for that.
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I have a pair. (With two pairs of AT10s). On my TFM 35. As typically Vegas do, they load at 4-6 ohms. So with quality power they do make LOTS of noise. Excellent rock speakers. Listen carefully to the tweeters, I had to replace one and didn’t realize it was cooked for a while. Of course, the surrounds need attention as they are open cell, if they havent been already. AJ, I only have experience with the AT series. My AT 10s have very good mid bass, decent soft some tweeters, but the mids suck unless you push them hard. The mid clarity is lacking. Take that all up a notch with the AT 12s, bass is better, tweeters decent, mids weak. But they will take an absolute beating as long as there’s no clipping. For hours and hours. My Carvers get warm with the load after 4-6 hours......
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I so love Xanadu.
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Powering up an M200t after storage
Zoom replied to bluelick's topic in The Welcome Shop (Please read first)
What’s old is new again. Everything stated in your last post is spot on. You seem to be on exactly the right track. While the 200 isn’t a power house, it will indeed handle brief transients easily with minimal clipping. I loaded mine at near 3 ohms for hours on end. The headroom obviously isn’t great at that load, so I monitored it pretty carefully, but it never let me down and only shut down thermally maybe once or twice a year. -
Powering up an M200t after storage
Zoom replied to bluelick's topic in The Welcome Shop (Please read first)
I wouldn’t worry about the initial power up. I own 2 M-200t amps. One was my first Carver. I beat the hell out of that amp for 10 years at obscene loads before I started seriously building and it has never let me down. Ever. No joke. It was the sole reason I based my system around Carver. If it was stored clean and dry you should have no issues. Clean the external connections with some isopropyl alcohol. Make sure you have a clean source. Enjoy. And we do like pictures. Welcome to Carversite. -
Turbo has it here. Just a little clarification maybe from my days wiring ‘seperates’ in car audio. ‘Overall impedance’ matters little in relation to impedance at any given frequency. Ie if your bass drivers are ‘listed’ at 4 ohms resistance, the frequency sent there from your crossover will load your amp at that frequency at 4ohms. The same for your mid frequencies, and high etc. That’s why some speakers are said to be ‘amp hungry’. Like our Vegas. They load amps at half the resistance so twice the load. Weak amps get hot and ornery when presented with that load for extended periods. Some reference series Infinities load certain frequencies at an ohm or under. (The Kappas, especially the Kappa 9) You start running into problems when you start overlapping frequencies with incorrect or incompatible crossovers (like we used to with multiple separates in cars) overlapping frequencies will further load that freq range with the resistance of the corresponding driver. You wont have that problem since you are still using the crossovers that were engineered to slope the crossover cutoff properly and not overlap frequencies. Using those cv crossovers, the only way you can change the load (you are correct here for sure) is changing from series to parallel with the drivers. A couple more cents for what they’re worth.
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I don’t think I’ve ever seen ‘flimsy’ and ‘AT-15’ I the same sentence. Ever. I’m not a big fan of deep horns. At all. Soft domes for accuracy. Hard domes for dB if needed. But cool. Good luck man.
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Yep. How do they survive? Headroom, my friend. No clipping. I think you’re gettin the rhythm. Theres a time and a place. Sometimes a howitzer is the right tool. No matter how noisey it is, sometimes it just does the job perfectly, lays waste and completely handles the situation. Sometimes a sniper rifle is the right tool, accurate and precise. Bob Carver supplies both.
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I'm new here and I have a problem with another user
Zoom replied to NickDavis's topic in The Welcome Shop (Please read first)
I live in GR. I can pick up and ship to you if you need help. Let me know any known markings or I can snap pictures of them for you if needed. Do you have his address ? I’d rather not Get in the middle of a dispute but will gladly pick up and ship. PM me if necessary. Mods has my personal info since 2013 or before. Gosh time flys. Woops. I just noticed how old this thread was. -
I believe the voltage number is nothing more than relative. What you’re really needing is current available which is in the voltage equation. That being said 120 plus is what I see also on my 3500. I only use the meter to make sure that on those wicked topped out hold my beer watch this that my rack has enough so I don’t start clipping. Because clips are hard to hear with that much noise going on. If I see a severe ‘voltage’ drop I back off and live for another day.
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Betcha forgot alllll about those noisey fans huh, bud...? Ive installed two dedicated 20amp circuits to power my rig and my line conditioner meter drops to just under 105 volts (I’m assuming voltage available at the box) during the drum roll down on Roll With the Changes. All 8 Vegas engaged. ?
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100% agreed with this. I loose sleep thinking about it. ? I have my A/V rig and my ‘critical listening’ setup in the same room. For A/V I try as best I can to setup my front three pairs of drivers on exactly the same plane (rt and lft). I use a straight edge (yardstick or similar) to match the faces of the front three on each side. I believe if you have multiple fronts (especially on a decent A/V rig) keeping each right and left signal on its own plane keeps he signal from any kind of relative delay. The four bottom end amps of course don’t need to be as fussy. I shut off the front 7 and switch to my m500 when I don’t want to wake the dead. The only physical change I make to the room are I might pivot my Time Frames sideways out of the way when not in use as they are thin (on the m500) or sometimes I will lay them flat on their face with a blocker to keep them just off the floor. This helps with not having to constantly remeasure and aim them for the SH. Make sense?
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Welcome Uncle Meat!!! I did much of the same when I was browsing back in the late 80s....I found a decent to me Kenwood reciever, and a pair of CVs to jam with. (I still have both) But I did LOTS of browsing into things that were waaay out of reach. I heard my first pair of Maggies and still remember the exact time and place. Superior Sound, across from Classic Stereo, 28th street, Grand Rapids, MI. And then I came upon a used M-200t, and was sooo proud....I ran that poor sucker at 3-4 ohms for days and weeks at a time....I still have it also. It's never been touched. Welcome to Carversite. We all know why we're here. Its a love for great, affordable audio. And this is some of the best.
