zumbini

Glad that you and LT got it worked out Greg. ENJOY THE MUSIC!

That purple tint on yours may be the result of cleaning the faceplate with a product containing ammonia. BTW: My C-11 is s/n 00003.

Yes Vin, I have a C-11 and it does match my other black-faced Carver units (an SD/A-490t and TX-11b).

Nice system Vin, simple but effective. Thanks for posting the pics and video. Some notes about the C-1/C-11: Early production C-1's (under S/N 00500) were brushed aluminum (or champagne) with black lettering. The rest of the C-1's had anodized anthracite faceplates (a medium grey) with light grey lettering. As far as I am aware the C-11 was only available in anodized black with light grey lettering. If your C-11 is anthracite it could be a prototype or a special order unit. What's the serial number?

Howdy Vin and welcome to the forum. Thanks for introducing yourself and posting some pix. Sounds like the tray drive belt on your 490t is slipping which is not unusual for an older CDP. As a temporary "fix" remove the cover, push out the tray, insert your CD and it should load. If it doesn't load push the tray back in and press play. Belt size is listed HERE. For more info about changing the belt read SD/A 490t door won't open. Good luck getting your system working!

Thanks Charlie. Did you ask about the power split for the tweeters/mids vs the woofers when bi-amping? FYI: My Legacy Super Satellites use a 5A slow blow for the dual 6.5" mids and a 2-1/4A fast acting for the tweeter.

"You can sway a thousand men by appealing to their prejudices quicker than you can convince one man by logic." Robert A. Heinlein

It wouldn't hurt to hear from the OEM but the split should be obvious when you hook them up and watch the meters. If you do contact CV ask them if the 5A fuse protects all the drivers, or (my guess) just the tweeters and mids.

I saw the system photo you posted in another thread. You should have mentioned you have 4 XLS-215's... Does the owner's manual metion the approximate power split between the highs/mids and woofers? Based on the published driver specs and 280Hz crossover point my guess is that it's NOT 50/50.

Two amps should be more than enough to make your ears bleed. If you insist on using four I suggest running them in single channel mode as bridging tends to smear the soundstage. (Feed one input channel of each amp and connect the corresponding binding posts to one freq. band of one speaker.) The driven channel will be able to "borrow" power from the unused channel up to the capacity of the power supply. The only drawback to that arrangement is that only the meters for driven channel will be active.

Great to hear you got it fixed! I think Dr. Z uses his phone and an RCA headphone jack to dual RCA with some tone generation software. You set the freq for 1KHz and adjust the meters for 100W indication. Correct me if I am wrong Dr. Z......grin A cell phone with a test tone app is just one of many ways to generate the 1kHz test tone. When Zack is home I use Audio Test Bench software on his laptop to generate the 1kHz tone. More recently I used an mp3 player loaded with track 4 of the Carver Sonic Holography test disc. Irregardless, I run the test tones into the preamp aux inputs, and adjust gain to provide a 1v output. For an M-500t I adjust the meter calibration pots (SRV601/602) until the meters read 100w.

I agree. The caveat is that the passive crossovers control everything, including the balance between frequency bands. Unless your speakers have trim pots for each frequency band you'll need identical amps or amps with gain controls.

There's no effective difference running mono amps except that you need two to replace each stereo amp. However, I recommend using identical pairs for each frequency band to maintain balance at all volume levels. Active multi-amping requires the addition of an electronic crossover between the preamp outputs and amp inputs. The electronic crossover splits the full range signal into several frequency bands which are sent to the amps. It's more efficient because each amp only sees the frequency band it needs to amplify (no power is wasted as heat). It's more difficult to achieve because you need to adjust the slope, bandwidth and phase of each frequency band. Here's a flow chart for my horizontally tri-amped main system:

Howdy drsickstrings and a belated welcome to the forum. Signet makes an excellent cleaning tool for RCA jacks and sockets that can be used wet or dry. Made from molded thermoplastic embedded with a mild abrasive, they are inexpensive and last a long time. Site menber helicopterpilotdoug sells a connection cleaning kit on his website Douglas Connection. It contains the same Signet cleaning tool, plus polishing cloths and DeoxIT D and G-series wipes.

Howdy armstrong4140 and welcome to the forum. Nice to have you on board. Congrats on the new (to you) PM-1.5a. The PM-1.5a (and rebadged PM-1200) is basically an M-1.5t on steroids (with balanced inputs and exhaust fans). The weak point on both amps are the 50/80v dual-can low/mid rail caps which are located under the input board. Member and ebay seller circuitsandconcepts makes this replacement daughter board that fits without modification: Here's one of the engineered daughter boards installed in an M-1.5t: (more about the install ==> M-1.5t Dual-Can (50v/80v) Capacitor Replacement ) ENJOY THE MUSIC!

Check your local hardware store. If they don't have them McMaster-Carr (online catalog sales) will.

Gritty Texas blues from an underappreciated master of the genre. Thanks for the share Dennis.

Howdy Travis and welcome to the forum. Nice to have you on board. Thanks for the photo and info.