zumbini

I like Bob's arrangements on his DMP big band release Incredible Journey.

Thanks LT. I still have a lot to learn about electronics, but I've been a decent photographer since I was a sprout. I still own a motor-driven 35mm Yashica SLR with a dozen lenses, lots of filters, and a bag full of accessories. However, these days my weapon of choice is a simple, inexpensive Sanyo VPC-5500 digital "pocket" camera. For close up work like this all you really need is a macro-capable lens, a steady tripod, and lots of light.

Thanks Brian. My research indicates that the crossover didn't change post-release, but I'll check it against the schematic later today. I'll also try to map out the T3 circuit on the board, ring it out, and test the 2 caps.

I put my DMM across the tweeter terminals. They all read open and pushing on the leads has no effect. The block resistors measure per the schematic (within the listed 10% tolerance). I haven't measured the caps as hot melt glue blocks access to most of the leads. (If I recall correctly one needs to lift one of the legs in order to read them.) The megaohm circuit resistance readings for T3 bother me. Can someone explain what might cause that?

I was able to trade the A1-I SDA Non-Common Ground Interface for 4 used SL3000 tweeters. While waiting for them to arrive I figured it would be smart to determine why the originals failed. (I don't want to install the new tweeters and fry them due to an issue with the wiring or crossovers.) So I pulled the crossovers for a visual inspection and found no bad solder joints or bulging/leaky caps. I did find white powdery deposits on some of the block resistors. Is this "normal" or indicative of a problem? I also measured the resitance of the crossover circuits with the tweeters removed: T2: left = 14.0 ohms; right = 14.2 ohms T3: left = started around 6 megaohms; right = started around 8 megaohms (Both readings increased slowly over time, I assume the battery in my meter was charging the cap?) Do these measurements make sense based on this schematic or do they indicate a problem?

The Japanese collectors editions sell for north of $400 but there are plenty of used original release copies for under $30.

Tricycle by Flim & the BBs (Jim Johnson, bass; Billy Barber, piano; Bill Berg, drums) has incredible dynamics. (Be careful not to turn up the volume too much!) "Flim and the BB's second album, Tricycle (for DMP Digital Music Products, an independent all-digital audiophile record label started by Tom Jung) was the first non-classical recording to be released in the new Compact Disc format. It was recorded on the new Mitsubishi X-80 digital audio recorder at Sound 80. The disc displayed the full dynamic range available in CDs, becoming a popular test disc for this reason. It was also the first jazz album to be recorded, mastered and delivered completely in the digital domain. The entire recording chain, after the first few feet of microphone cable from the musicians' instruments, remained in the digital domain until it was decoded by the consumer's CD player. DMP's releases were for the most part recorded directly to two-tracks as opposed to the more common multi-track method. This means that there was minimal use of overdubs and the majority of the music was performed, recorded and mixed "live" to the digital recorder." Another favorite is Jazz at the Pawnshop (Proprius Records) an excellent live recording of a small ensemble in a club setting. "Jazz at the Pawnshop is a multi-session recording made by Gert Palmcrantz on December 6-7, 1976, at Jazzpuben Stampen (Pawnshop) in Stockholm, Sweden. A pawnshop had operated on the site prior to the jazz club. Proprius Records founder Jacob Boethius produced the album, and it has been issued at least five times under multiple labels and formats. The album is widely regarded by audiophiles as the best jazz recording of the 20th Century."

No worries mate.. I'm always up for saving a few bucks. I've been a member of the Polk Audio forum since 2010 but I hadn't posted much until recently. Everyone there has been very helpful getting me up to speed on the 1.2tl's and all the upgrades that are available. (apparently Polkies, like Carverites, are consumate enablers....) I've also been reading (and re-reading) the SDA Handbook, and I checked out VR3's website today. Thanks. I've made good progress with the cosmetics but I've also run out of things I can do without money. I believe the feet are still in place as I see 4 round depressions in the carper every time I move the speakers.

Thanks for stroking my ego gents, but it's not rocket science. Just takes a little time, a few tools, and a lot of patience.

Over the weekend I finished recovering the left speaker grill and side accent panels, I also filled in the scratches in some of the wood side panel inserts (from the cats I assume). I used screws to attach the inserts so I can easily replace them with solid oak at a later date. That completes the cosmetic restoration for now. Time to enjoy the music while I search for some tweeters!

Thanks for the props Kevin. Coming from you that means a lot to me. Apparently the SL3000 crossover network is different than what was used with the SL2000. But I should be able to make it work, and a working tweeter would be better than none.

Thanks guys. Most people (Zack included) won't notice the "defects" unless I pointed them out. But I'm more than a bit anal about my own work, and I know where all the bodies are buried....

Yesterday I recovered the side panels with the same material I used on the grill. There are a few "issues" that only I can see, but overall I'm happy with the result. before after recovering completed speaker

Interesting, but there are differences between the SL-2000 and my tweeters (SL-3000's). I will disassemble one of my non-working units further and see what it looks like inside.

I pulled out the non-working tweeters and compared voice coil resistance to one that works. The working tweeter reads 5.4 ohms; all of the non-working units read 0 ohms . Also checked the fine wires that connect the voice coils to the terminals. They look OK. Unless I'm missing something these results indicate that the voice coils are fried.....

Two steps forward, two steps back.... After giving the RTV on the right speaker 24 hours to cure I powered up for some critical listening. I used a y-adapter cable to twin the left channel preamp output and sent that to both amp channels. I heard an improvement in detail and transient response in the repaired right channel speaker. Then I listened to the output of each of the mids and tweeters using a 2" mailing tube to isolate them. Bad news. The middle tweeters (T2 and T3) on both speakers had zero output. I'll follow up today. I patched a few pinholes in the right speaker mid surrounds that I'd missed and recoated one of the large rips. Then I put a first coat of RTV on all the rips, tears and pinholes in the left speaker mid woofer surrounds. Finally I stripped down the left side panel for the right speaker with the intention of recovered them. More bad news. I wound up cracking the wood insert piece (veneered MDF) while trying to remove it. After I got it out I saw why. At the point where it cracked I found a huge blob of glue and extra nails. I glued it back together so the break doesn't show but I'll probably replace all of the inserts with solid oak. Today's project - Recoat with RTV (if needed); pull the 4 "dead" tweeters and check the voice coils and wiring.

No big deal David. I have plenty of time now that Zack is back at school, and lotsa help from the "experts". Today I finished repairing the mid woofer surrounds on the right speaker. I also inspected the passive radiators and found them to be in great shape.

The dust caps on the 1.2tl's are pretty thin so I was able to pull the dented one out with no problem. Start with Scotch or painter's blue tape and escalate to something more agressive like duct tape if needed. Cut the tape so one end is narrower than a flat(ish) spot at the lowest point of the dent. Use your finger, a pencil eraser or burnishing tool to get the tape to adhere, and pull easy. On dust caps that are non-porous I have used a straw attached to a portable vacuum cleaner. I've also used a blob of the adhesive they use to attach credit cards to a letter when mailed. If all else fails I poke a tiny hole in the dust cap and use a dental pick to pull it out.

A few days ago I figured out how to remove the side panels. (They are attached with 8 friction fit body panel pins.) Yesterday I stripped one of the panels down. and figured out how to remove the wood accent pieces. (Lots of tiny finish nails with the heads buried; stuck to the grill cloth adhesive via incidental contact.) I'll be recovering these panels with the same material I used on the speaker grills.

Thanks Kev. I was just googling for an RTV thinner. I believe I have a can of toluene in the garage from my days in printing.

The pillars of the stamped mid woofer basket are rather wide making rear access difficult. So I decided to leave the mid woofers installed and do all the repairs from the front.

I repaired one of the mid woofers with the most damage last night using RTV gasket maker. I prepped the area with sandpaper and applied RTV sparingly using a miniature paint brush. Took a while to figure out the best technique so the result isn't very pretty, but it IS air tight. Only time will tell how durable the repair will be.... BEFORE AFTER