zumbini

Congrats Bill!

Howdy Sean and welcome to the forum. Nice to have you on board. Rolland is a stand-up guy. If he messed something up I'm sure he'll stand behind it. Can you be more specific about the hum? Does it emanate from the amp, the speakers, or both? Is it mainly 60/120Hz or does it have a higher frequency component? Are all of your components powered by the same phase of your main breaker panel? Are you mixing grounded equipment (3-wire) with ungrounded equipment (2-wire)? About the thump, are you turning the amps on last and turning them off first?

This thread goes back about 5 years ==> Favorite tracks to demo new gear

Actually I had a PAIR of M-1.5t's driving the subs, a pair of M-500t's on the mids, and an M-500 on the tweets. When Zack graduated from grammar school I put together a system for him out of components I had on hand. He choose the M-1.0t, a CT-Seven and a DTL-200MK2. I later traded him an M-1.5t so I could MKII the M-1.0t. (Eventually I traded the 2nd M-1.5t to Kevin for an MXR-130.)

I installed and tuned the sound systems but the club owners usually decided what to purchase.

We'd need to know more about your speakers to determine your power requirements. In my system the tweeters draw 10-15%, mids 25-35%, and subs 50-70%. If I used 3 identical amps the sub would run out of power long before the tweets and mids.

I'm using 4 amps to drive 3 frequency bands. Am I quad-amping or tri-amping?

You sir are VERY NEEDY!

+1 here, AR9Jim. Except that I set my XO point at 200hz, a bit higher than stock XO point which I presume is good for the ribbons. I'm running my AL-III+/SF 200x5 bi-amped with a Rane AC22B with the passive XO for the HF intact. In addition to what AR9Jim is saying, this arrangement gives one the choice of using SH only on the mid- and high frequencies, thus avoiding the apparent boost of low frequencies esp. with the early C-4000. Both these ideas I remember picking up from the late BillD's comments on biamping. He didn't really elaborate on them but what I read was enough for me. I proceeded with the "partial" biamping which involved nothing but clipping and resoldering the woofer wire directly to the binding post. Anyone can put together a twitter and a woofer in a box and come up with a speaker but design a proper crossover? Not easy. So why discard an XO designed by Bob Carver? I've done it both ways, but currently have the passives bypassed as my Legacy's are straight high/low pass. If I had Amazings I'd be tempted to go quasi-electronic (keep the passives to avoid recreating the notch filters). Note that Bob changed his crossover designs constantly so he must have felt they could be improved upon.

If you want to get laid go to college. If you want an education go to the library. Frank Zappa

If you are adding a subwoofer to a full range speaker an Audio Control Richter Scale is a good choice. They come up on ebay pretty regularly for $80-150 (original model) and $160-250 (Series III). The original offers 2 XO frequencies (100Hz or 600Hz), a 1/2 octave EQ and warble tone generator. (You'll need the original condensor mike, or equivalent, to take advantage of the built-in analyzer.) The Series III can be adjusted for any XO frequency using readily available plugin resistor modules. The unit I bought in the 70's came with 80 and 120Hz chips and a postcard you could send in to get a 3rd chip free. Most of the units I see on ebay don't mention the 2nd module but often it's taped to the PCB inside. (Again you'll need the original condensor mike, or equivalent, to take advantage of the built-in analyzer.) This is a crossover module (it's just a simple resistor network on a 16 pin DIP), and instructions for changing the crossover frequency:

Howdy mach-1 and welcome to the forum. Nice to have you on board. That's an eclectic assortment of gear! Thanks for not making us beg for photos.

Howdy Chris. Nice to have you on board. Dilligent and capable techs are always welcome. Tell us more about yourself. Do you listen to music while you're working or at home? Who are you're favorites artists? What gear do you run in your personal audio system? Photos are always appreciated!

Howdy Jim and welcome to the forum. Hope you stick around a while. Please don't make us beg for photos! The M-1.0t is a great choice. Even in stock form it provides way more power than it's rated for. Don't forget the M-500(t) with it's laid back sound and big sexy meters. No need to choose tho, just run them all!

Closest match I could find: Carver RH-27V A/V Receiver Remote Control CT-27V

Howdy Doug and welcome to the forum. Nice to have you on board. The original CT-29v remote is the RH-29v. Unfortunately they rarely come up for sale. Other v-series remotes MAY control some functions but I don't think any are multi-room capable. Model Remote CT-20V RH-20 CT-26V RH-88B CT-27V RH-27V CT-28V RH-28V CT-29V RH-29V

Howdy UncleMeat and welcome to the forum. Nice to have you on board. Thanks for sharing your story with us. Photos would be greatly appreciated!

Howdy Mark, and welcome to the forum. Sounds like you'll fit in with our local yokels just fine.

Does "slow platter" mean it's slow to load and/or eject (tray going in and out) or slow to index from disc to disc? Does it "find" the disc eventually and display track info? FYI: Try running your CPC through it's paces with the dust cover removed so you can see what is (or isn't) happening.

Howdy William, and welcome to the forum. Nice to have you onboard. PICS PLEASE! Which Carver CD changer do you have and what problems are you experiencing?

Howdy Raven and welcome to the forum. It's great to have a woman onboard who appreciates our toys and listens to music. And thanks for sharing Greg with us. He's a talented guy with a big heart, and he's a huge asset to the site.

Not that much of a comeback considering that vinyl record sales peaked in 1977 at 344 million units.

Doggy dreadlocks. Kewl!