pindrop 330 Posted September 24, 2015 Posted September 24, 2015 Quote Quote I don't see how the Neutrik would work since the speakers need to sit flush on the stand and be bolted to it or how you would be able to squeeze it to release. The stand has a pretty big opening at the top of it. This is the top plate for the stand. /yetanotherforum/uploadimg/20150923150927376.jpg I was blind but now I see, thanks Martin.
martin1970 361 Posted September 24, 2015 Posted September 24, 2015 Quote Martin I have studied the schem and read the instructions 11 times. Could you by pre-chance draw up a wiring diagram for DUMMIES and post it? I am at the last speaker and the instructions make no sence? It might be because I was only given 3 colors/yetanotherforum/images/emoticons/Taz.gif Here is an absolutely awful drawing of how I wired a set. XLR pins 1 and 3 are easier, so many people did it that way. (I chose 2 and 3 to correspond with hot and cold in the XLR standard) The black and the long 'yellow" wires weren't cut, just stripped in the areas where we wrapped them around the terminals. (TNRabbit's idea) /yetanotherforum/uploadimg/20150923180610958.jpg You can put the speaker on its back and set the woofers and bottom plate next to it exactly like this with the ribbon on top and run all of the wires. Note the orientation of the small and large pins on the woofers. 6
helicopter pilot doug 110 Posted September 24, 2015 Posted September 24, 2015 Martin, Thank you so much!!! That is a big help seeing the schematic of the drivers and the photo of everything laid out like that. LOL, I could read the instructions 20 times and never have the understanding I get from seeing what you posted above. Thank you Martin!!
oldtexasdog 2,456 Posted September 24, 2015 Posted September 24, 2015 Bingo!! Thanks! Maybe that knock on the head I took has affected me more than I knew but I just could not get my brain around it. Thanks again!
hewlew1 258 Posted September 24, 2015 Posted September 24, 2015 I used silicone to seal the XLR connector threads and seal the keyway. Also I applied a bead of silicone to the top and bottom plates and allowed it to cure completely before installing them. This is pretty cool as the silicone squeezes out as you tighten the screws but also allows easy removal should you need to open them up. Last I installed and soldered theXLR last as it is easier to install drivers without the end cap floping around
loner_t 2,568 Posted September 24, 2015 Posted September 24, 2015 Here is an absolutely awful drawing of how I wired a set. Can I get dimensions of the crossover plate and the resistors and capacitors and the inductance? I will try and put together an etched PCB drawing and get a quote from 4pcb.com. I can post the etched PCB layout once I have the drawing completed for review and feedback. 2
martin1970 361 Posted September 24, 2015 Posted September 24, 2015 Quote Can I get dimensions of the crossover plate and the resistors and capacitors and the inductance? I will try and put together an etched PCB drawing and get a quote from 4pcb.com. I can post the etched PCB layout once I have the drawing completed for review and feedback. Note: These dimensions are in inches 2
oldtexasdog 2,456 Posted September 25, 2015 Posted September 25, 2015 Well I have the first one almost done Question-I see the bottom plate has two screw holes for the stand mount. Does the orientation on the bottom cap matter as to the placement on the stands?? I know the speaker has a Gangster lean and I think the stands are wide side to the eye? Thought I would ask before butting it up. Again THANK YOU ALL for the help!!
loner_t 2,568 Posted September 25, 2015 Posted September 25, 2015 This is how I would make the PCB layout look like. Thank you.
BillWojo 542 Posted September 25, 2015 Posted September 25, 2015 OTD, I believe that the stands are narrow side to the eye so they kind of disappear from view. Look at the earlier post on the speaker thread. BillWojo
oldtexasdog 2,456 Posted September 25, 2015 Posted September 25, 2015 OK??-But which way for the bottom plate to get the correct gangster lean?
martin1970 361 Posted September 25, 2015 Posted September 25, 2015 Can I get dimensions of the crossover plate and the resistors and capacitors and the inductance? I will try and put together an etched PCB drawing and get a quote from 4pcb.com. I can post the etched PCB layout once I have the drawing completed for review and feedback. Note: These dimensions are metric 1
BillWojo 542 Posted September 25, 2015 Posted September 25, 2015 Looking at that pic, my best guess is that the screws go on the sides, closest to the woofers.. I'm guessing that the plate gets screwed to the long extrusion front to back. Like I said, it's my best guess at this point. OTD, your very close to being done. Give us a report, ok? BillWojo
loner_t 2,568 Posted September 25, 2015 Posted September 25, 2015 Note: These dimensions are metric.. I assume both sets of pictures (this post and previous post) are in the metric. PS: Re-read the previous post. Thanks for clarifying.
LVMAN777 352 Posted September 25, 2015 Posted September 25, 2015 By the time "YOU GUYS' are through.... This will be The Absolute Sounds...."Speaker Of The Year" YOU GUYS ARE GOOD.... "Carry On"
martin1970 361 Posted September 25, 2015 Posted September 25, 2015 Note: These dimensions are metric.. I assume both sets of pictures (this post and previous post) are in the metric. PS: Re-read the previous post. Thanks for clarifying. Yeah, most of the plate dimensions looked like they were in inches. I'm assuming that all of the components resistors, caps, etc are in mm. Any idea what the lead time/cost would be for these boards?
loner_t 2,568 Posted September 25, 2015 Posted September 25, 2015 Any idea what the lead time/cost would be for these boards? I had 6 x 2-in x 1-in PCBs etched for about $71 in 4-6 days. They also have expedited rates, but bulk orders get discounts as well. I should have better idea by CoB tomorrow. 1
martin1970 361 Posted September 25, 2015 Posted September 25, 2015 I should have better idea by CoB tomorrow. If the cost/time aren't too far out, I might be in for 4. As simple as these are, regular old boards drilled and cut would probably be good. But then, overkill is nice, too.
oldtexasdog 2,456 Posted September 25, 2015 Posted September 25, 2015 Looking at that pic, my best guess is that the screws go on the sides, closest to the woofers.. I'm guessing that the plate gets screwed to the long extrusion front to back. Like I said, it's my best guess at this point. OTD, your very close to being done. Give us a report, ok? BillWojo In the kit it is not a X plate just a one finger plate. I see your point though.
TNRabbit 371 Posted September 25, 2015 Posted September 25, 2015 OTD, BillWojo is correct--screw holes on the bottom plate go toward the sides rather than front to back. 1
oldtexasdog 2,456 Posted September 25, 2015 Posted September 25, 2015 Thanks Rabbit! Side to side it is.
loner_t 2,568 Posted September 25, 2015 Posted September 25, 2015 @Martin.. please validate... Validation (Length) = G3. Excel formula is G3 = C3 + 2 x E3 Validation (Width) = H3. Excel formula is H3 = D3 + 2 x F3 If I do the reverse, then C6 = A3 - C3 C7 = C6 / 2 F6 = D3 - F3 F7 = F6 / 2 What am I doing incorrectly? Are the holes from edges asymmetric? Let me know if you need the spreadsheet.
SteveK 89 Posted September 25, 2015 Posted September 25, 2015 He can put the crossover plate on a copy machine, make a copy and then fax it to you. Steve 1
BillWojo 542 Posted September 25, 2015 Posted September 25, 2015 LT, I would wait till you get your speaker set and measure the actual parts before commiting to buying pc boards. Measure the mounting points in side of the speaker housing, not the plastic bits. If they ship today, we should have them on Monday. BillWojo Just checked, it was picked up this morning from NC 1
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