A New Sonic Hologram Generator is coming from Bob Carver.

[John Smallwood 227]

Hi Jim...I will post all these photos on the Carver SH FB page now.  People are starting to ask about price/availability date, a good sign.

[4krow 5,077]

It is possible that I missed it somewhere, but I am curious as to what new chips will be used for the circuitry. I think that I have bought just about every kind of 4136 chip ever made. Likely a 2134 or similar chip could be put to good use. I even have tried 134 with Brown Dog adapters but needed more info about the way to satisfy some requirements of the chip. And then I remember someone actually tackled that with another little adapter board. We have been around the block with all of this. 

[jeffs 2,604]

3 hours ago, 4krow said:

but I am curious as to what new chips will be used for the circuitry. I think that I have bought just about every kind of 4136 chip ever made

A new SH stand-alone product should be 95% surface mount components. It's 2023. Building surface mount in volumes is the way to go.  Not sure how the tube buffer would fit in as I know jack about what that circuit needs to look like.

 

I actually have a layout for a surface mount C-9. Hope to make it fully remote controllable. It's a 4x4in pc board. Includes the power supply and 2 input preamp. Only the power supply caps and the 22uF coupling caps are thru-hole. Remote receiver is a separate board, transformer is separate.

I was bored a few weeks back and it was raining so I laid it out in a day or so.... tweaked it here and there. Mostly did it for fun and to kill a few hours. I'm really curious if adding a ground plane quiets the annoying hiss when SH is enabled. This might just be a by-product of the comb filters, but I'm still curious. I have yet to pull the trigger on the boards. Building this by hand with mostly 0603 SMD components will be a huge challenge. I've built a number of surface mount boards by hand, but the component count was much less than what would be required for this project.

[4krow 5,077]

I couldn't appreciate your effort in this venture more. Very good. But this old guy has pretty much sworn off many SMD. I like to get components oriented physically when building just to have something that doesn't look like Hell. You have seen the type. Now I also am aware that this is 2023 and things will not be going my way from here on out in most cases. 

 Think that I will stick with what I know, as I enjoy the C-9 from back in the day.

[jeffs 2,604]

1 hour ago, 4krow said:

I like to get components oriented physically when building just to have something that doesn't look like Hell.

I understand this statement completely. Strongly agree, I have the same proclivities. The pictures of your work tell me all I need to know.

 

1 hour ago, 4krow said:

 Think that I will stick with what I know, as I enjoy the C-9 from back in the day.

I enjoy it as well. I'm just tinkering right now. After adding the preamp/volume to my C-9, I was very satisfied .... but I wanted more. I wanted to be able to remote control the switching. It's something that's certainly do-able in the current C-9. After some thought, I realized that it was the wrong approach. Why not just keep the electrical design but redo the mechanics? I needed a project ..... keeps the brain from turning to sawdust.

 

Like I said ... just tinkering. Still have yet to pull the trigger on it. I'm really looking forward to the new SH implementation from Bob. One of those will be in my rack. 

[4krow 5,077]

Maybe I should have worked for some kind assembly company, but the job would be different assembly every so often. Otherwise, no fun. It actually was that way at the phone company, going from building to building and doing a different kind of installation each time.

 

 I completely agree with the idea of a remote switcher though. It is the best way to compare. 

 

 Have you ever bought something and took the top off (like everything that I have ever bought, right) and been amazed at the quality of workmanship? Take a picture and button it back. Nothing to be improved here.  On many other occasions, you don't even want to touch anything under the hood, but for a different reason.

[3M_Audio 880]

8 hours ago, 4krow said:

 Have you ever bought something and took the top off (like everything that I have ever bought, right) and been amazed at the quality of workmanship? Take a picture and button it back. Nothing to be improved here.  On many other occasions, you don't even want to touch anything under the hood, but for a different reason.

 

I know exactly what you mean. Some Fluke stuff has just blown me away with the quality of construction and attention to detail. Some of the vintage HP stuff is also excellent.

[Ar9Jim 6,057]

The work holding tooling is done. The fixture will work with a variety of chassis and faceplates.

 

The chassis has blue tape to prevent the chips from scratching it. 

 

The aluminum face plate material has a solid stop for locating the blanks in position. The pocket the blanks set in, had the inside corners relieved with a dovetail cutter, so the plates will rest flat on the locating surface. The counterbored holes are for 1/2 socket head cap screws. Tomorrow the prototype parts will be machined. This fixture fits in the CNC mill for production runs.

 

 

Edited September 21, 2023 by Ar9Jim

[4krow 5,077]

What speed does the machine run at to drill aluminum?

[Ar9Jim 6,057]

9 minutes ago, 4krow said:

What speed does the machine run at to drill aluminum?

It depends on the drill diameter. A Bridgeport mill like this has a 2 speed gear box. They can go from about 50 to about 2200 rpm.

 

Very versatile machine. An old one like this can be purchased for about $3-4K.

[4krow 5,077]

 In my shop, I have two drill presses. One is for power, the other for accuracy. 300-500 RPM is usually all I go with, but yes, then there are those cases that I am sure to want a higher speed. Kind of trying to get an idea about that. Seems like one of my presses will do 2700 RPM. Many times, I am using larger diameter bits or drill wood with a Forstner bit of 1/2" or more. Clamp it (with my hand, of course 😆) set the speed slow and have a bit of patience.

 With metals harder than brass that is when I will use some sort of proper lube just to save the bit.

 

 Was grinding down a shaft on an old Elma pot today. I don't what it was made of but it acted like stainless and took way longer to take a 32nd off of. Since the shaft was long, I could put it into a chuck of a hand drill held by a vise and then use a Dremel to work it down, finishing with a fine file and then diamond stone, it came out fine.

[Ar9Jim 6,057]

Here is a link to a calculator. These speeds would be under ideal conditions imho.. Solid mounted to the machine, peck drilling, flood coolant, etc.. I seldom run tools as fast as they say unless in a CNC machine.

 

http://www.vikingdrill.com/fdspCal.html

[4krow 5,077]

Thanks Jim! I have not ever seen that detailed information, since I am usually/always using my best guess with my hand on the drill press lever. You have to bite or else you will only increase heat and no cut. You have not to bite too much or else you will cause some kind of quick trouble. I tend to let off the bit here and there to release heat from the bit and then back into it I go. 

 Choice of drill bit can also be influential. We could go on and on here, but it interests me. Diameter, feed rate, material, speed. Kind of like racing but carefully on a track.

[Ar9Jim 6,057]

 

Edited September 22, 2023 by Ar9Jim

[John Smallwood 227]

Jim, latest updates shared to the four main Carver Facebook pages.  Keep 'em coming!

[halfbaked 167]

2 minutes ago, John Smallwood said:

Jim, latest updates shared to the four main Carver Facebook pages.  Keep 'em coming!

Yes, you have been quite good about posting them on FB.

[Ar9Jim 6,057]

The work holding fixture worked very well for both the chassis and the faceplate.

 

The chassis and faceplate machining is about complete. Some 6-32 threaded holes will be added to the back of the faceplate. The clearance holes are drilled in the chassis. This will keep the faceplate clean without screws showing. The button holes were radiused with a ball nose end mill to fit your fingertip like the V12. A few pictures of military aircraft with parts machined at this location and Plant 1.

 

Used a face mill to clean up the 6061 aluminum. A corner rounding 3/32 R end mill was used around the edges to match the 285 and V12.

 

The IEC socket clearance and screw holes were added. Close to metal finishing and silk screening now. 

 

 

 

 

Edited September 27, 2023 by Ar9Jim

[4krow 5,077]

  Just remember to send it to me when you are done.

[jeffs 2,604]

I always use blue tape on the faces then I'm using my crappy tools to drill holes in metal. thanks for the confirmation that I'm doing that part the correct way.

[AndrewJohn 8,184]

15 hours ago, 4krow said:

  Just remember to send it to me when you are done.

 

What?! ... getting the first one was my idea..., the line starts after me, LoL 😉 

[4krow 5,077]

33 minutes ago, AndrewJohn said:

 

What?! ... getting the first one was my idea..., the line starts after me, LoL 😉 

  

 

  Don't fret AJ, I will send it along right after I have made some kind of improper connection, resulting in a fire. Then you wile get to see the circuitry after it is burned in.

[Yamacarver 664]

The pictures of that old Bridgeport take me back a long time. The vari drive I think they called it, when you turn the wheel, one pulley widens, and the belt goes deeper in the groove effectively decreasing its diameter while the other pulley does the opposite. Mine had quick change collets like the NC tape reader equipped models that were soon replaced by the fadal vmc.

[Ar9Jim 6,057]

2 hours ago, Yamacarver said:

The pictures of that old Bridgeport take me back a long time. The vari drive I think they called it, when you turn the wheel, one pulley widens, and the belt goes deeper in the groove effectively decreasing its diameter while the other pulley does the opposite. Mine had quick change collets like the NC tape reader equipped models that were soon replaced by the fadal vmc.

Really great machines that still have a use. It's fun. There are not too many old guys left that know how to get things done using them. These that I have been using sit unused most of the time.. This small Fadal is handy for toolroom work and limited production.. It can be used manually or CNC.

 

 

 

[halfbaked 167]

I think the number 17 is mine. I’m using a crystal ball to make it happen. My magic 8-ball says odds are good. Of course they said the same about last week’s lottery drawing, those tickets did not win anything.

[halfbaked 167]

It has been a while is there any forthcoming news about the new Sonic Hologram Generator?