BillWojo 542 Posted September 23, 2015 Posted September 23, 2015 OTD, follow the link above, there is a schematic at the end of the post. Does anyone know if these shipped on Monday? BillWojo
oldtexasdog 2,458 Posted September 23, 2015 Posted September 23, 2015 It just the instructions called for a 13 inch blue wire(+) on the top left speaker. It seems like a lot to just reach the top right speaker (+)?
martin1970 361 Posted September 23, 2015 Posted September 23, 2015 3 colors on the ones I built and no instructions. I wired them black to-------- xlr pin 3 bottom 2 woofers neg (small terminal) neg on ribbon Red from xlr pin 2 to crossover Another red from crossover to ribbon pos Yellow from crossover to top two woofer positive (big) terminals Another yellow from top left woofer small (neg) terminal to bottom left woofer pos (big) terminal Yet another yellow from top right woofer small (neg) terminal to bottom right woofer pos (big) terminal Yeah, the top woofers had both wires the same color but it was easy enough to tell which was which when I replaced one. 1
hewlew1 258 Posted September 23, 2015 Posted September 23, 2015 As far as the 16 ohm resistor goes I drilled 2 more holes in the crossover board and mounted it on the right side under the 2 220 ohm resistors. No way was I happy mounting it over the coil. 3
martin1970 361 Posted September 23, 2015 Posted September 23, 2015 As far as the 16 ohm resistor goes I drilled 2 more holes in the crossover board and mounted it on the right side under the 2 220 ohm resistors. No way was I happy mounting it over the coil. Any chance you have pics of both sides of the board?
B-Man 4,781 Posted September 23, 2015 Posted September 23, 2015 After building the 2nd speaker in the 1st of four pairs, I have some additional suggestions for those who haven't built theirs yet : 1. Before you start assembly, get one screw of each size and verify that you can screw it into EVERY hole in the speaker cabinet, mounting brackets and end caps. I had two holes that I had to run a tap into to clean up the threads before the screws would start and one hole in an end cap that was blocked with powdercoat. 2. When I followed the instructions regarding the fiber fill, I ended up fighting a battle with little strands getting caught in the RTV sealant and sticking out between the cover and the body of the cabinet. For the 2nd unit, I test fitted the top, put the RTV sealant on it and installed the screws. I wiped the excess from the outside with a paper towel and then I stuffed the fiber fill in, going through the ribbon mounting hole. The bottom side I did put some fiber fill in before I installed the end cap, but I stuffed more in after the end cap was installed. 3. The XLR connector is actually too small for the wire supplied so you will need to fill the connector pin with solder, tin the wire and then use a larger iron to melt the two simultaneously and quickly, so you don't melt the plastic in the connector. 4. When I assembled the XLR connector, I found that the blue insert was the best fit for the wiring supplied with the kit. 5. I "glued" all of the crossover components to the mounting board with silicone. Once I get my bench back together, I am going to look at etching a PCB for the crossover. If you put your hand on the cabinet when playing them loud, there is quite a vibration or buzz apparent at certain frequencies. I think that the crossover components would be longer lived if they were mounted securely and soldered to a PCB. Time will tell I guess. 6. I tried to get the speaker wires through the cloth sleeve supplied with the kit. No matter how I tried, they kept snagging the sleeve and getting hung up. I finally grabbed a 8' section of steel fish tape I keep for wall wiring and ran it through the sleeve, taped the wires to it and pulled them back through the sleeve. 7. If you plan on mounting the binding posts to the stand base plate, you will need longer wires going to the XLR plugin connector. 8. If you are going to drill into any of the powdercoated surfaces, put a layer of painter's tape all around the intended hole. It will prevent the sharp shavings from scratching the surrounding surface. 9. I bend the terminals on the speakers slightly outward to make it easier to loop the connecting wires through the holes for soldering. They will still fit through the cabinet holes with room to spare. 10. After you seal the rear of the ribbon with the AC duct tape, the foam seal supplied with the ribbon may require a little trimming to fit correctly. If you don't trim it, it might press out a little bit when you tighten the mounting screws. 11. If any of the end caps are a tight fit when you do a test fitting, you may find it easier to get it all lined up if you proceed this way : Start all four screws by hand into the mounting brackets. Don't snap the end cap into place. Start the end cap screws by hand. Leave the mounting bracket screws loose until you get the end cap screws started. Then tighten the mounting bracket screws and the end cap screws together, alternating a turn or two between each, until you can get everything tightened down securely. 5
loner_t 2,568 Posted September 23, 2015 Posted September 23, 2015 As far as the 16 ohm resistor goes I drilled 2 more holes in the crossover board and mounted it on the right side under the 2 220 ohm resistors. No way was I happy mounting it over the coil. This is what I had in mind with my suggestion. I think that the crossover components would be longer lived if they were mounted securely and soldered to a PCB. When I put LEDs in my TFM55, I used 4PCB to build a small batch of 10 etchings. If all the CS! folks want to collaborate, they also provide bulk services, and giving them component specs, an assembly service is also provided. A wiring connector on such a PCB will also make wiring runs to the ribbon/woofers much easier. They have free software to do PCB layouts on Windows OS. I may have posted this on the LED thread.
martin1970 361 Posted September 23, 2015 Posted September 23, 2015 Excellent advice. Thank you! Just want to add a bit to this one... Quote 3. The XLR connector is actually too small for the wire supplied so you will need to fill the connector pin with solder, tin the wire and then use a larger iron to melt the two simultaneously and quickly, so you don't melt the plastic in the connector. Several people have wanted to trim strands off of the supplied wire to get them to fit those tiny XLRs. Please do not do that. Hooking these up is really difficult and B-Man's method was the only way I could get it to work. While the mini XLRs will suffice, there are better solutions out there. I have to do a Mouser order today for the job. Anyone have any suggestions? I'd rather not do full size XLRs but would prefer something larger than these and also air-tight. Would a TRS just fall out? Locking RCA, perhaps?
zumbini 6,150 Posted September 23, 2015 Posted September 23, 2015 I used Neutrik locking flush-mount TRS sockets in my patch panel build. As you can see from this photo they have a larger OD than an XLR. They do make a flangeless, non-combo version for a cord end but they are virtually the same diameter as an XLR Perhaps this locking 3.5mm (1/8" mini) TRS jack and socket would do the trick? 1
martin1970 361 Posted September 23, 2015 Posted September 23, 2015 Z, thanks for all of the great options, I'm going to read up more on those. Who knew there was a locking TRS? Very cool! Best thing I've found so far is this: Neutrik NC3MPR-HD Yeah, I said I didn't want an XLR, but I like the one-hole mount of this one. I tend to get the ones with the two screw holes all out of alignment. (Which is sad because I drill and tap thousands of holes at work in panels with no issue - go figure) The NC3-MPRs are IP65, so probably not much air leakage. The only thing is the 50V rating. Neutrik doesn't make a speakON which mounts like them because of the force required to connect/disconnect.
zumbini 6,150 Posted September 23, 2015 Posted September 23, 2015 Z, thanks for all of the great options, I'm going to read up more on those. Best thing I've found so far is this: Neutrik NC3MPR-HD Yeah, I said I didn't want an XLR, but I like the one hole mount of it. I tend to get the ones with the two screw holes all out of alignment. (Which is sad because I drill and tap thousands of holes at work in panels with no issue - go figure) They're IP65, so probably not much air leakage. The only thing with these is the 50V rating. Neutrik doesn't make a speakON which mounts like this because of the force required to connect/disconnect. While you CAN mount that in a round hole the intention was to use a double flattened opening: Use the Neutrik NC3FX-HD male connector if you want to maintain the IP65 rating:
martin1970 361 Posted September 23, 2015 Posted September 23, 2015 Quote While you CAN mount that in a round hole the intention was to use a double flattened opening: Use the Neutrik NC3FX-HD male connector if you want to maintain the IP65 rating: Great catch. I didn't even notice that. I'm not worried about the rotation aspect because the XLR isn't a twist on type of connection. However, I wonder if it will still seal in a round hole. Perhaps the tiniest bit of clear silicone around the outer flange... I don't care about the seal on the female connector. Or are you thinking the connector requires the female to make a seal? Jeez, this stuff gets complicated rather quickly.
martin1970 361 Posted September 23, 2015 Posted September 23, 2015 Completely off-topic... Does anyone know who wrote the post editing software? Every time I try to right-click to copy and it tells me "use ctrl-c" I WANT TO KILL SOMETHING! Why the hell would someone code in a popup and not just do the damned thing you want it to do? Is there someone we can pay to make this work?
zumbini 6,150 Posted September 23, 2015 Posted September 23, 2015 ...I'm not worried about the rotation aspect because the XLR isn't a twist on type of connection. However, I wonder if it will still seal in a round hole. Perhaps the tiniest bit of clear silicone around the outer flange... Silicone or RTV sealant or a rubber/neoprene gasket should be adequate for this application. ...I don't care about the seal on the female connector. Or are you thinking the connector requires the female to make a seal? The IP 65 standard addresses dust and water resistance. To make it air tight you'd need an explosion-proof fitting. Honestly I doubt a small amount of air leakage will be an issue for this application. 2
helicopter pilot doug 110 Posted September 23, 2015 Posted September 23, 2015 Martin, wish my speakers and stands had arrived so I could get a grasp on what the mating between the speaker and stand looks like. If there is enough room, a speakon connector might be the best answer. One of these on the bottom of the speaker, and one of these insie the stand pole, if there is enough room. The hole in the bottom of the speaker would more than likely need to be enlarged. The female connector is a little over 1" in diameter, and don't know if it would fit inside the stand post or not. Anyway, just a thought. Excellent advice. Thank you! Just want to add a bit to this one... 3. The XLR connector is actually too small for the wire supplied so you will need to fill the connector pin with solder, tin the wire and then use a larger iron to melt the two simultaneously and quickly, so you don't melt the plastic in the connector. Several people have wanted to trim strands off of the supplied wire to get them to fit those tiny XLRs. Please do not do that. Hooking these up is really difficult and B-Man's method was the only way I could get it to work. While the mini XLRs will suffice, there are better solutions out there. I have to do a Mouser order today for the job. Anyone have any suggestions? I'd rather not do full size XLRs but would prefer something larger than these and also air-tight. Would a TRS just fall out? Locking RCA, perhaps?
pindrop 330 Posted September 23, 2015 Posted September 23, 2015 I don't see how the Neutrik would work since the speakers need to sit flush on the stand and be bolted to it or how you would be able to squeeze it to release.
Nahash5150 10,760 Posted September 23, 2015 Author Posted September 23, 2015 Quote Completely off-topic... Does anyone know who wrote the post editing software? Every time I try to right-click to copy and it tells me "use ctrl-c" I WANT TO KILL SOMETHING! Why the hell would someone code in a popup and not just do the damned thing you want it to do? Is there someone we can pay to make this work? That was done for security purposes. I'd really appreciate any trouble with the forum be reported to me or an admin rather than complaining about it publicly. Thank you.
martin1970 361 Posted September 23, 2015 Posted September 23, 2015 Guess that was a screw up. Sorry Greg. It has been pissing me off for five years. It's like it's taunting me. Everyone hates it. It's the Carversite equivalent of Nelson from the Simpsons. Ha Ha you forgot about the goddamned copy thing.
Daddyjt 9,633 Posted September 23, 2015 Posted September 23, 2015 Completely off-topic... Does anyone know who wrote the post editing software? Every time I try to right-click to copy and it tells me "use ctrl-c" I WANT TO KILL SOMETHING! Why the hell would someone code in a popup and not just do the damned thing you want it to do? Is there someone we can pay to make this work? I just right-clicked, copied, then right-clicked and pasted the above....? 1
B-Man 4,781 Posted September 23, 2015 Posted September 23, 2015 If you switch to HTML for editing, you can use all your favorite right click commands... 1
martin1970 361 Posted September 23, 2015 Posted September 23, 2015 Quote If you switch to HTML for editing you can use all your favorite right click commands... 😉 Thank you B-Man. Stroke avoided. 1
martin1970 361 Posted September 23, 2015 Posted September 23, 2015 I don't see how the Neutrik would work since the speakers need to sit flush on the stand and be bolted to it or how you would be able to squeeze it to release. The stand has a pretty big opening at the top of it. This is the top plate for the stand. 1
oldtexasdog 2,458 Posted September 23, 2015 Posted September 23, 2015 3 colors on the ones I built and no instructions. I wired them black to-------- xlr pin 3 bottom 2 woofers neg (small terminal) neg on ribbon Red from xlr pin 2 to crossover Another red from crossover to ribbon pos Yellow from crossover to top two woofer positive (big) terminals Another yellow from top left woofer small (neg) terminal to bottom left woofer pos (big) terminal Yet another yellow from top right woofer small (neg) terminal to bottom right woofer pos (big) terminal Yeah, the top woofers had both wires the same color but it was easy enough to tell which was which when I replaced one. Martin I have studied the schem and read the instructions 11 times. Could you by pre-chance draw up a wiring diagram for DUMMIES and post it? I am at the last speaker and the instructions make no sence? It might be because I was only given 3 colors
B-Man 4,781 Posted September 24, 2015 Posted September 24, 2015 OTD - I threw this together in Visio. I hope it helps... Tesla Speaker Wiring Diagram 6
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