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Es porque han pasado exactamente 30 años, así que no creo que sea tan extraño. Hola a todos, han pasado algunos días desde mi última publicación, pero tengo noticias que compartir. Finalmente decidí hacer dos cosas. Quizás recuerden que sospechaba que el problema era el ferrofluido de los tweeters. Una de ellas fue desmontar los tweeters para verificar que el ferrofluido estuviera completamente seco. Los limpié siguiendo los tutoriales. La bobina móvil y las cúpulas parecían estar en perfectas condiciones. Compré el ferrofluido en eBay. Todavía no ha llegado. El segundo que hice fue desmontar el crossover y descubrí que había sido completamente reconstruido y modificado con condensadores de alta fidelidad. Es muy posible que este trabajo se haya realizado en Argentina. Les mostraré fotos de lo que encontré. En general, suenan fantásticos, pero los tweeters están un poco apagados y sin brillo. Si no es el problema del ferrofluido, entonces debería revisar el crossover.

Most of my HT power is Carver. A 500t MKII runs the L & R, another 500t MKII runs the center (steering mode, not bridged), a Sunfire Theater Grand runs the base layer surrounds (4 speakers x 200 Sunfire watts - overkill I know), and a Parasound Z-12 running 8 of its channels bridged to 4 running the 4 Atmos speakers at 100 watts each. Then there’s the subs - the 2 SVS SB4000 each have a 1,200 watt amp, and the 2 Velodyne DD18 subs each have a 1,250 watt amp. The 4 subs pressurize the room quite well…;-) I am running the Marantz SR6015 receiver as a processor. I didn’t see any reason to move up the line (SR7015 or SR8015), because I didn’t need the 2 extra amp channels (9 vs 11) nor did I need more powerful amp channels, as ALL my amplification is via separate amps. There are a lot of different options for Atmos channels. While ceiling mount is best, high on the front wall is pretty good, and even the “aimed & ceiling reflected” Atmos speakers that sit on top of the front mains present a realistic image.

More pictures please.

There were a lot of speakers at Axpona last year that I wished I could have heard the RAM through them. 😁

Hi everyone, it's been a few days since my last post, but I have some news to share. I finally decided to do two things. You might remember that I suspected the tweeters' ferrofluid was the problem. One of those things was to disassemble the tweeters to verify that the ferrofluid was indeed completely dry. I cleaned them as the tutorials indicate. The voice coil and domes appeared to be in perfect condition. I bought the ferrofluid on eBay. It hasn't arrived yet. The second thing I did was remove the crossover and find that it had been completely rebuilt and modified with some audiophile-grade capacitors. It's very possible this work was done in Argentina. I'll show you photos of what I found. Overall, they sound fantastic, but the tweeters are a bit recessed and dull. If it's not the ferrofluid problem, then I should check the crossover.

Hello, I purchased my CT-17 with AV-64 new in the 80s. After sitting in its box for a few decades, a lot of moving for a while, I pulled it out and the tuner display would not light nor would any of the buttons work. There is intermittent function when holding remote buttons down. Based on other sites I replaced all power supply caps and checked for bad solder joints. These had no effect. I found that if I unground the circuit board with the tuner, the tuner functions works. Not sure what this means. Wondering if anyone has run across this before? Electronics are not my strong suite. Thank you.

Here is the system as of about a month ago. It is tri-amped so that is why there is a lot of amps. The speakers are self built but designed and spec'd by Sigfried Linkwitz (Linkwitz-Reilly crossover fame). My father worked with him at Hewlett Packard long ago. They are the "Phoenix" open baffle loudspeakers. Linkwitz active crossover network, Adcom GFA 545 for the tweeters, GFA 545ii for the midranges, and now the restored Carver M400 for the woofers. An Outlaw Audio mono block for the Velodyne subwoofer, and then another Adcom GFA 7000 5 channel amp for the surrounds and center channel speakers. Outlaw Audio 7.1 preamp, Denon DP1100 (restored) with a Goldring E3 cartridge and Fosi phono amp. Then an Oppo DVD player handling the digital side. It has taken me over 20 years to get to this point. Built and put together on a budget as funds allowed. Just about everything bought used except for the loudspeaker system. Those I built and sourced all the drivers new. The sound is incredible. I have listened to a handful of truly high end systems in dedicated custom rooms and honestly, I think mine is in the same ballpark for a fraction of the cost. Linkwitz knows how to design speakers. Moving forward I will slowly (no rush now) be upgrading some of my components to higher end ones. I will still buy used or restored, let someone else swallow the depreciation. Let me know what you think.

Since the home theater flooded last year and I had to rebuild it, I decided to upgrade from my old 7.1 setup to a 7.2.4 Atmos configuration. During the course of construction and equipment acquisition, I collected a few Atmos music discs, and was understandably excited to audition Atmos music at home. Well. To say that I was underwhelmed would be an understatement. I have learned that Atmos mixes come in two (2) varieties. This first (and most common - unfortunately) is the obnoxious practice of throwing a cacophony of sounds and instruments at random speakers, literally abusing the surround and Atmos speakers. Such things as a guitar stating at right-center, then bouncing over your left shoulder, or the snare being dead center, but the hihat behind you. Stupid stuff The second (and spectacular) use of an Atmos mix is SUBTLE use of the surrounds and Atmos speakers to create a sense of space and ambiance. THIS is what I experienced a couple nights ago with two very different discs: Tori Amos - Unrepentant Geraldines. I’ve been a fan of Tori’s since Little Earthquakes debuted when I was a kid. The sound of this disc in my Atmos HT is simply stunning. The mix creates such an intimate sense of space, and the details of her vocals and piano are amazing. There are some subtle percussion bits sprinkled around the room, but far from annoying or unrealistic. Thompson Twins - Into the Gap. Laugh if you want, but I have a soft spot for ‘80s synth-pop (the music of my high school years). This one is a much more aggressive Atmos mix that Tori Amos, but man - it’s crystal clear, hits like a hammer, and the singing ability is quite a bit better than I remember. Demo material for sure. Both of these discs came from the same place - SDE Shop out of England. https://superdeluxeedition.com/news/tori-amos-unrepentant-geraldines-sde-exclusive-blu-ray-audio/ Needless to say, I have several more on the way. PLEASE feel free to post any great finds you’ve come across for Atmos music mixes - seeing (or hearing, as it were) what’s possible with this format, I’m definitely IN!

Good morning! I just found this forum and am glad to join. I have been building a higher end room and system now for going on 25 years, and doing it on a budget. While I have committed the cardinal sin of combining 2 channel audio with home theater, I am very happy with how it is turning out. Here is a brief overview of my system: Sources include a Outlaw Audio 990 preamp, Oppo DVD/CD player, and a Denon turntable Output side gets complicated: Linkwitz designed 3 way active crossover feeding two Adcom GFA 545 and one Carver M500 amps into self built, but Linkwitz designed "Phoenix" loudspeakers. Velodyne sub (modified) powered by an Oppo monoblock amp, then an Adcom GFA 7000 5 channel amp powering my center/surrounds. I recently reconditioned my M500 amp with all new caps and other related parts and she is sounding fantastic. I would like to pick up an older Carver Sonic Holography generator to add into my mains at some point. I will add photos once I have that privelage.

Good morning fellow Carver fans. I have been a Carver owner since the mid 80's when i purchased my first Carver gear, a C-2 pre-amp and a M1.5t amp during my college years. I had them put away for close to 20 years and within the past 2-3 years have started to re-assemble a listening room as the kids have all left the house and i can claim use of the bonus room now. I have had the M1.5t fully service from Nelion, and have acquired quite a bit of other pieces over the past year. I now own 3 M1.5t's, 4 TFM6'c, AV405 C-1, C-2, CT-7, Ct-17, CT26V TX-2, TX-12, and a Sunfire Ultimate Receiver. Some of this gear needs some attention and some work great. I have replaced all the caps on two of the tfm-6c's and will be doing the other two soon. I am new to repair work, but i am not afraid to try, and I enjoy the learning experience. I have downloaded the service manuals for most of the pieces I have and have referenced them for the repairs i have done so far. I want to thank each of you for the support you have given me to this point, and welcome your input. I am currently tinkering with the CT-7 ass the power switch intermittently does not seem to work, and i currently have the CT-17 as the display is quite dim. the CT-17 is a nightmare to disassemble, but again, i don't mind the challenge or learning experience. i have been reading about the typical issues with these units display problems and will continue to chase this down. Have a great day, and crank it up to 11!

Best of luck on your repair, @Fernando Achiary. I recall reading a post on the NHT Group on Facebook, from Ken Kantor (original founder and designer of the initial line from NHT). His post was about ferro fluid. He seemed to indicate that it was very very rare that the ferro fluid would dry up on his drivers - but that it was possible. Sounds like you came across the one that did. Looking forward to your update.

I’ve been dying to try a pair of these with the 285… You may, now, have an excuse to invest in a pair… 😉

Hello, just joined the group. I've had Carver components in the past and now I'm back with a few components/gear for my new system. Carver SDA 410 CD player, CT 3 Preamp and a custom Bose 800 EQ that has now been installed in modified Carver DPL 33 chasis. My amp is a Adcom GFA 555 at 200 wpc. Speakers are a set of BOSE 800 Professional speakers (refurbished). Things are still in progress I just finished the BOSE 800 EQ project. I'm waiting on a replacement power switch for my ADCOM amp. I just updated the LED from red to blue. https://drive.google.com/file/d/14Rs5P0nIFVJTK8ObBlmwpgPrvNnZwV_u/view?usp=drive_link https://drive.google.com/file/d/1A5hTAw1FyBVeODHNxoJLaraelz844KW9/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Bu_4ywg9n8jp7oNnXXOdGiq58vyyWyEn/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/19g87woP-XjSIXff55R-ELt-di4I8i8ev/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/14sS4aK3rStDP5dSrK6dXi2LuvcvoM3Kq/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bmaWzHK2gA9JVJPlIQ4E8BBqfezme1-4/view?usp=sharing

Have you tried Amazon Music? Their premium music service has a decent Atmos library. You may be able to sign up for a free trial.

Sorry about not getting photos uploaded. I found the issue was on the display board as suggested above. Not sure which specific solder joint was cold. I simply reflowed all joints on the front display/switch board and am back up and running. I appreciate the suggestions.

Welcome to the site, @Jeff CT-17. Glad you found us. If you pursue a fix, please post some pictures of what you are seeing to help others understand the issue.

Jeff, Welcome to the site. Sorry to hear your CT-17 is having trouble. Your symptoms are fairly typical. The CT-17 is known to have some poor solder joints on the display board. The display board is actually two boards sandwiched together. Several studs are used to hold them together and to pass signals from one board to the next. For some reason these studs were soldered in place separate from the components. Often the joints will oxidize and provide poor/intermittent connections. Add this to all the 30 year old small caps that may or may not be bad and you've got a major puzzle on your hands. There is a terrifying level of disassembly necessary just to get to the display board. Beware. Some folks have had success focusing just on the display board solder joints and replacing the caps on the display board. Others, not so much. There are a lot of caps in the CT-17. In any case, it's not for the the novice. You may want to consider sending it to a pro. Search around in the preamp sections of the site here. You will find several posts about the CT-17.

They were the rosewood ones but were gone in minutes. Oh well. But I saw an ad for NHT's with no description and fuzzy photos near me and they were the lowly VT 1.2 model. The guy offered them up for $60 in great shape so what the hell. I finally played them tonight and they sound way way better than they have a right to be. These little fookers pump some bass. WTF? I am looking for their bigger siblings to try. My wife was so excited to see small speakers in my listening room, Phych! Sorry babe, too small to be manly.