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fxbill

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fxbill last won the day on October 31 2020

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About fxbill

  • Birthday 04/02/1946

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    Atlanta Ga

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  1. Happy Birthday Greg.. Hope you guys are happy, warm and safe for your special day. May you have many, many more to come!
  2. All mine generally showed my GF's butt!! ( but it looked just as good both ways.... cheeks were always equal...) BTW... You can take two mirrors touching each other and hold them at the proper angle to make just one image and actually see what others see when looking at us....ie..they then produce a corrected and inverted image of what is in front of the mirrors. Try it...very interesting and fun to do!
  3. They don't flip as we know it... Look at you left hand and then look at it in the mirror. It is still on the left side. What the mirror does is to invert the image front to rear. That is...if we saw the front side of the mirror...( opposite what we are looking at) we would see exactly as things are, but we're not looking at that. We're looking at the back side of that image and therefore the image is reversed...front to rear...not left to right. We're seeing the inverted image, not the reversed image. Make sense? That's the best way that I can explain it. Here's the explanation from Quora: COMMON MISTAKE: MIRRORS DO NOT SWAP LEFT AND RIGHT. This is going to seem like an odd answer - but the fact is that a mirror DOES NOT swap left and right. Yeah, yeah, yeah - you’re wanting to tell me that I’m wrong…OK - well let’s do a couple of “thought experiments” (or you can do them for real). THOUGHT EXPERIMENT #1: Let’s imagine you wear a wrist watch. Let’s all stop calling our hands “Right” and “Left” but instead call them “Watch-hand” and “No-watch-hand”. Now - if you wear a watch on your right wrist - and stand in front of a mirror - then watch-hand is on the right side for both you AND your mirror image. No-watch-hand is on your left - and it’s on the left side of the mirror. See - it’s NOT reversed. Now - before you rush to the comments section to complain… THOUGHT EXPERIMENT #2: We’re going to stop calling “top” and “bottom” by those names too - we’re going to call them “shoes” and “no-shoes” (aka ‘head’). No-shoes is at the top for both you and your mirror image - and shoes is at the bottom for both you and your image. NOTHING WAS SWAPPED!! Watch and no-watch - along with shoes and no-shoes - all behave identically. The position of each object is the same for both you and your reflection. So there REALLY is nothing different about how a mirror reflects vertically and sideways! Whatever is at the top remains at the top - and whatever is on the right remains on the right. ANOTHER WAY TO THINK ABOUT IT: If you’re still not convinced - another way to convince yourself of this is to lay down horizontally in front of the mirror - your feet and head don’t seem to be swapped - even though head is on the left and feet are on the right. If a friend stands normally behind you then you are convinced that the mirror is no longer flipping left and right - but your friend says that it is. This “flip” is a purely mental thing. HOWEVER THERE IS A FLIP - IT’S JUST NOT WHAT YOU THINK IT IS: The mirror DOES make one flip…it flips front-to back. So if you’re facing North - then your mirror image is facing South. It’s the front-to-back flip that causes our disorientation…in effect it’s like it’s turning us inside out. We don’t ever see front-back flips in the real world - so it confuses us. We imagine our mirror image self simply turned around though 180 degrees - and that’s incorrect. But our assumption is that this is the only possible way for the front/back reversal to have happened because solid objects in the real world can only be rotated 180 - they can’t be turned inside out like that. CONCLUSION: Mirrors DO NOT flip left/right. They flip front-back. This seems to be a weird way of thinking about it - but it’s undeniably true. Sorry....didn't see that you had answered it as well as ask.
  4. I doubt that this is an issue in a crossover.... especially with lower resistance resistors. The inductance issue is generally only evident in higher values where more turns are on the resistor.
  5. I would keep the sand cast resistors. They dissipate heat better than film resistors. They are also wirewound resistors which I read- http://www.aikenamps.com/index.php/resistor-types-does-it-matter -are the most linear for audio use. I doubt that you'd hear any improvement with others. The repair looks easy. I would not resolder the board to the original tabs....rather use a braided copper conductor...much like what is used in solder wick or the wires going to the voice coil of many speakers. It's very flexible and won't come loose with vibration in the future. Find a way to mount the board without using the tabs..(possibly small brackets expoxied to the board and mounting spot....I'm sure there are numerous ways to do it) and then solder the braid to the existing tabs and the board without directly soldering the tabs back to the board. That way they are free to move slightly without breaking again. I've had to do this several times on different occasions and it worked out quite well every time I have done it. I'm sure you can handle it yourself!
  6. I've been considering selling all of them for years. I've had them for more than 15 years. I got them in a rental locker sale that was abandoned by a film producer who had just gone through a divorce and his ex failed to tell him when the rental was due. I got thousands of dollars worth of equipment from the locker and owned an eBay consignment store at the time. I purchased it all to sell from the store. I kept the video discs though. He had quite a collection of cartoon discs, Clint Eastwood, Bruce Lee, many hard to find B grade horror movies and all of them had been played just once. ( I met the guy later as I began selling the stuff and he purchased all that was remaining to get it back and even though I had only paid a small amount for the locker and offered it back to him for what I paid he insisted that I take 10 times what I paid for it for me returning it to him). He was one of the main cartoonist on Roger Rabbit and had his own show called "Eek the Cat" or something like that. He told me to keep the discs....they had all just been played one time only and then stored away. In the past year I've sold 4 or 5 of them and received up to $80 per disc for some of them. Many are rare and hard to find...others are parts of pretty complete collections. I also have a black rubber rat signed by Ann Rice! My daughter also has a big box full of cartoon cells that he had collected and saved from his work. Anyway... I was going to sell them all for about $1-$2 per disc to anyone who wanted all of them and I think anyone getting them could easily sell them for 5-10 times that amount if sold individually. They'd make one heck of a collection. It also includes music video discs although I sold the Beatles Anthology and a few others. I never realized that the sound on a laser disc is analogue and needs no dac to sound great! I have the Isle of Wight festival from 1970 among some of them... The Doors and others as well. There are some of almost everything included, but most are ones that are slightly harder to find than you mostly see on fleabay. I had them shipped tome when I moved back here and media mail sends them for $29 a box that weighs 75 lbs. I have three or four full shipping boxes of them! I also have a disc player that has one large tray with a smaller tray built into the larger one....plays both laser discs and DVDs. Haven't used it in years, but aside from probably needing new belts at this point it was working great when I stored it away almost 10 years ago.
  7. Beautiful setup!!! I still have those 400 new laserdiscs sitting here waiting for you!lol
  8. All and any rap, hip hop, heavy metal, ultra modern progressive jazz....and oh yes...Taylor Swift! ( Gosh, I'm picky!)
  9. @DaddyJT "Can you share the impedance of the volume pot? Remote volume is a deal-breaker for me, and curious of the possibility of modding it..." × Hi.... We use the ALPs 20K although we have also used a 100K with good results as well, although the 100K is a bit more sensitive at the bottom end and the 20K seems a bit more linear...no difference in sound though...only in the volume settings for the unit. We already have a remote kit that can easily be added to the unit and quite possibly our next model will include it, but the power transformer I had custom built for this unit already has extra taps at 6v, 9v and 12v for adding any options that might be needed. The remote we found has power on and off, mute and volume. It already has the motorized ALPs pot on it and it fits perfectly into our face plate. It requires 5 volts to run it and the 6 volt tap from our transformer will work perfectly since the remote board already has a 7805 5 volt regulator built in. The only thing that needs to be changed aside from the volume control is the main power switch that we have. It needs to be changed to a momentary switch instead of a latching switch. Fortunately we planned ahead on this and the switch we use is already available in both latching and momentary. Change that out and add the remote kit and one power relay which is controlled by the remote board (the relay costs less than $10) and there you have it. Easy squeezy. I'd estimate several hours to do the complete changeover.
  10. Because of the delays we experienced with some parts and shipping boxes our initial sales got off to a rather late start...half way through the 1 month sale originally planned. I have convinced JG to extend the sale for another 2 weeks....until the 15th of April to make up for the 2 weeks of lost time at the beginning of the sale. Either JG or I can be contacted for more information. Thank you for the support we have so far received! FXB
  11. Because of the delays we experienced with some parts and shipping boxes our initial sales got off to a rather late start...half way through the 1 month sale originally planned. I have convinced JG to extend the sale for another 2 weeks....until the 15th of April to make up for the 2 weeks of lost time at the beginning of the sale. Either JG or I can be contacted for more information. Thank you for the support we have so far received! FXB
  12. The Alps pot you're looking for is the 27mm Size Metal Shaft Type RK271 Series ALPS and is available in many resistance values. We have used both the 20K and 100K and had excellent results with either. Do not order the stepped fixed resistor ladder type that you can get on eBay for about $6. The steps were too wide apart for our purposes and it was not always possible to get the exact volume that we wanted with it. One step might be too low and the next step would jump to being too high. It might work just fine for your use though. The ones we use cost about $10-$15 on eBay and there are only a few sellers in the US who stock them. Most sellers have the cheaper stepped units. They look very much alike, but the stepped units usually have a fixed loudness tap on them giving them 4 terminals for each section. They're still quality pots, but lack the flexibility of the infinitely variable Alps which only has the normal 3 terminals per section. There are also fake ones out there that are not truly made in Japan. Check feedback on whoever you purchase one from! We order ours directly from the manufacturer to ensure that we have the real deal. We do have some stepped units here that we originally purchased since I normally like fixed resistor "ladder" typed volume controls. We can sell you one at cost if you think you'd like to try one. It might be fine for your purposes.
  13. I think you'll find that the silver anode 6N2's are going to sound as good or better than any 12AX7 you can sub in it, but I'll be very interested in hearing what your experiences are! They have a lower floor noise and lower microphonics of most 12AX7's and are rated at up to 10K hrs of use. The bottom end is also supposed to be better as well. The single 6N1 can be directly subbed with a 6DJ8. We tried several brands including Bugle Boys and the 6N1 sounded better...( to us anyway). Interesting thread here...... https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tubes-valves/65548-6922-vs-6n1p-bass-response.html
  14. I just started a thread about these adapters and their use that includes some info about the 6N1 and 6N2 tubes and rolling tubes in the preamp.
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