PMAT 2,041 Posted October 26, 2015 Posted October 26, 2015 My build has been great fun until THIS! 3 of the mid woofer screw holes won't take the screws because the barrel that is tapped and mounted under the chassis plate is offset. If you look at the hole it is not round but rather oval. The hole in the plate doesn't line up with the threaded hole of the barrel. The first chassis was perfect. The second has three bad holes. I am bummed. I emailed James yesterday but haven't heard from him. Anyone have any ideas?
trav0810 586 Posted October 26, 2015 Posted October 26, 2015 Since the speakers will cover up the holes in the chassis, I'd probably see if I could drill out the hole a little bit to see if you can get to the threaded barrel.
BillWojo 542 Posted October 26, 2015 Posted October 26, 2015 I think your going to have to get a small metric tap and carefully tap out the threads. Sounds like the pressure was cranked up to high on the pemsetter machine and crushed the insert some. Do you have an industrial supply house near you that caters to machine shops? I think those screws were either 2.5 or 3 mm. BillWojo On Edit: Don't force the screws, they can come loose and than you have a real problem.
B-Man 4,781 Posted October 27, 2015 Posted October 27, 2015 Quote My build has been great fun until THIS! 3 of the mid woofer screw holes won't take the screws because the barrel that is tapped and mounted under the chassis plate is offset. If you look at the hole it is not round but rather oval. The hole in the plate doesn't line up with the threaded hole of the barrel. The first chassis was perfect. The second has three bad holes. I am bummed. I emailed James yesterday but haven't heard from him. Anyone have any ideas? I assembled 4 pairs of these. I had to run a tap into several of the speaker holes, the aluminum cap brackets, the two holes for the speaker mounting to the stand and in all of the base plates to screw in the spikes. All of mine were easy enough to do and all but a few were caused by excess powder coat - par for the course I guess. I had one of the aluminum brackets with a buggered-up hole but a tap straightened it right out. Can you post a picture of what you are seeing ?
PMAT 2,041 Posted October 27, 2015 Posted October 27, 2015 I don't think I can tap it. the tapped hole is perfect, it's just not centered. looking from above half of the barrel hole is under the chassis.
martin1970 361 Posted October 27, 2015 Posted October 27, 2015 I know it's a weird question, but exactly which holes are they? __________ | | | * * | | * * | | * * | | * * | | * * | | * * | |__________|
PMAT 2,041 Posted October 27, 2015 Posted October 27, 2015 Random holes but not the ones on the ends. The top left driver 2 and 5 oclock and one other I cant remember.
Toy Maker 292 Posted October 27, 2015 Posted October 27, 2015 Sorry guys.... haven't been on here for a little while. Don't feel like talking much after Gary.... If you would, please send the chassis back to me, and I'll be glad to send you another. James
PMAT 2,041 Posted October 27, 2015 Posted October 27, 2015 Thank you James. I will. Same here on Gary. Every post of his jabs me in the heart.
Ar9Jim 6,514 Posted October 27, 2015 Posted October 27, 2015 Quote Sorry guys.... haven't been on here for a little while. Don't feel like talking much after Gary.... If you would, please send the chassis back to me, and I'll be glad to send you another. James You can't get better product support than this. Just an observation and comment. I have worked in manufacturing for over 30 yrs. The last 20 or so in the aircraft industry, working w/n a quality standard known as AS9100. We are audited regularly on processes as well as paperwork. Its from this perspective that I make this comment. Toymaker and his support team came up with an idea for a product, came up with a concept, researched the components, made the design, did the manufacturing engineering work (how do we make it), made prototypes, developed a crossover, and put this product into production. All with orders coming in and a Carverfest deadline only months away! I sure wouldn't sweat a couple holes off location! It happens every day. A part moved in the fixture or drill tip walked, whatever. The point is, all the things that you had to get right, to pull this off in this time frame. Very impressive to say the least James. You must have put other parts of your life on hold to make this happen. Thanks to the others in your family behind the scenes that may have helped out or were patient while you were making this happen. Not to mention dealing with vendors and subcontractors that are somewhat out of your control! Great work! 5
Toy Maker 292 Posted October 28, 2015 Posted October 28, 2015 Thanks for the reply man, I really appreciate the fact that you can appreciate the amount of work that really went into these kits..... It was fun, exciting, frustrating and exhausting. 3
PMAT 2,041 Posted October 28, 2015 Posted October 28, 2015 OK the chassis is boxed up and on its way. I was talking with Russ about the execution of this design and how wonderfully well made it is. The thought behind it is easily just as much work as the product. I love it when something is really well thought out. I am excited to hear these babies. Thanks again to James for the support. I also purchased two extra drivers from parts express for future repairs. You never know when an amp is going to arc weld your speaker. 1
PMAT 2,041 Posted October 30, 2015 Posted October 30, 2015 Those tiny XLR connectors are a serious bitch. They are so dainty that if you have to solder to them more than once they fall apart. I'm going to order two more to try again. If that doesn't work I will directly wire them somehow.
zumbini 6,150 Posted October 30, 2015 Posted October 30, 2015 I find it's helpful to use a 3rd hand tool. 2
PMAT 2,041 Posted October 30, 2015 Posted October 30, 2015 You're right Mr. Z. I don't have one but I will.
B-Man 4,781 Posted October 30, 2015 Posted October 30, 2015 Those tiny XLR connectors are a serious bitch. They are so dainty that if you have to solder to them more than once they fall apart. I'm going to order two more to try again. If that doesn't work I will directly wire them somehow. 1. Get the 3rd hand tool Dom posted. 2. Put a dab of flux on each of the pins. 3. Touch a higher wattage iron and solder to each pin. The solder should flow immediately into the pin. 4. Tin the ends of each of the wires. 5. Put the heat shrink pieces on the wires. 6. Clean your iron tip. Touch a small amount of solder to it. Place the wire against the pin and touch the iron to both of them. The solder should flow almost immediately. With a slight bit of pressure you will feel the wire "crush" into the pin. 7. Remove the iron and hold the wire still until the solder solidifies. 1
jldeni 439 Posted October 30, 2015 Posted October 30, 2015 The only problem I had with the mini xlr is it really didn't take much heat to move the pin in its plastic mount. I realized that after touching the first one to tin it and was very careful not to put any pressure on them while soldering. All worked ok when I buttoned them up so I'm happy. The third hand device is a great option - I have the exact unit Z pictured. I picked one up on a whim from Harbor Freight for about $5 and have found it very useful.
helicopter pilot doug 110 Posted October 30, 2015 Posted October 30, 2015 I know better, but I tried to solder the mini XLR and had the same problem with the pin moving and ruining the connector. I say I know better because when making balanced interconnects with XLR connectors, I always use the female and male connectors plugged into each other. (I have a set of XLR M & F connectors that are dedicated to soldering.) This makes the other connector a heat sink, as well as holding the pins in the proper position so they should not move. I have worked with 4 pin mini XLR for the Audeze headphones, and can tell you from first hand experience these mini XLR's can be a PITA to solder! Just plug the female and male connectors together and that should keep the pins from melting the plastic and moving out of place. Hope this will help. 7
zumbini 6,150 Posted October 30, 2015 Posted October 30, 2015 I know better, but I tried to solder the mini XLR and had the same problem with the pin moving and ruining the connector. I say I know better because when making balanced interconnects with XLR connectors, I always use the female and male connectors plugged into each other. (I have a set of XLR M & F connectors that are dedicated to soldering.) This makes the other connector a heat sink, as well as holding the pins in the proper position so they should not move. I have worked with 4 pin mini XLR for the Audeze headphones, and can tell you from first hand experience these mini XLR's can be a PITA to solder! Just plug the female and male connectors together and that should keep the pins from melting the plastic and moving out of place. Hope this will help. An excellent idea Doug. I'm gonna add that to my SOP for soldering XLR's.
loner_t 2,568 Posted November 18, 2015 Posted November 18, 2015 Usually new speakers require a 'break-in' period. Is there a similar requirement for the CF speakers?
trav0810 586 Posted November 18, 2015 Posted November 18, 2015 I think all speakers change a little as the drivers loosen. Mine were a lot stiffer when I first built them. 1
jldeni 439 Posted November 19, 2015 Posted November 19, 2015 Usually new speakers require a 'break-in' period. Is there a similar requirement for the CF speakers? I have dozens of hours on mine by now. When I first listened, I thought they were a bit lacking in their lower range of 100-120hz or so. However, I discovered that the more I used them the better they seemed to become in this range. Also, through trying different listening levels I decided they are much better when pushed to at least a medium-high volume. They do sound full and rich being driven at around half the power (on average) of my M4.0T, and they do match up well with the Signature sub I'm using. So, yes. I think there is a "loosening up" period as well. 2
BarryG 2,853 Posted November 19, 2015 Posted November 19, 2015 They sound good from the start, but improve as time goes on! The changes are subtle. My guess is they are still breaking in! I am very pleased with mine! BarryG
loner_t 2,568 Posted November 19, 2015 Posted November 19, 2015 When I first listened, I thought they were a bit lacking in their lower range of 100-120hz or so. However, I discovered that the more I used them the better they seemed to become in this range. My sub is set to 80Hz, and the CFs get a 'full' signal. The sound stage is HUGE, but my observations are similar. Also, through trying different listening levels I decided they are much better when pushed to at least a medium-high volume. They do sound full and rich being driven at around half the power (on average) of my M4.0T Thanks for that bit. I will try and push them a bit. I am using a pair of Soundstream DA2s right now. Will also try M500t and TFM42.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now