kve777

I'm gonna turn this 'ol shack into my Party Barn!

Welcome! Those KG's do a nice job. The TFM's will power them nicely. Stick around, things can get expensive!

Sadly you are correct.

I like subs with phase switches!

I was reading the manual for an Audio Research preamp the other day and was intrigued by a passage indicating that the preamp inverted the signal from input to output and that users should check the final phasing of their speakers. Apparently just connecting Red to Red and Black to Black won't always be correct. Hmmm. Since I've been noticing some sibilance in my new-to-me Snell's, and read that tweeter phase can affect performance in this area, I swapped my cables around, just to see what the effect would be. Well, I noticed an improvement. Less harshness in the esses. (My next step is new caps/bypass caps/new tweeters, that sort of thing) Apparently you need to make sure that the initial movement of the drivers in your speakers needs to be outward to be correct. How can you be sure? A single fast low frequency note, down around 10 or 20Hz will do. You can actually see the woofer cones go in or out first. If in doubt, try it with your cables hooked up both ways. The rest is conventional methods of phasing... I hope this helps at least one person fix a problem.

Might be fun if we all share a listening experience for Christmas Eve! DJ Robert Drake spends the whole year curating this event! LISTEN LIVE LINK University of Pennsylvania's Public Radio plays some awesome tunes. Listen for the whole day, post here when you hear something you love, hate or just think is worthy of comment. Merry Christmas CarverSite Folk!

Welcome, Brian! You may also want to consider getting a C-1 or C-11 preamp and having the BillD mod done for one heck of a great preamp for vinyl.

Could be a broken jack ring on the C-1 or M-500t, too.

I'm rebuilding my ALIII+ Low Pass sections for Bass/Sub use. There is only one cap in that section. It calls out for a 110V 324-389uF bipolar cap which is an AC Motor Start capacitor. I found PACKARD PMJ324. The coils are readily available at Parts Express, 3.5mH and 2.0mH are the values of L5 and L6. THESE on eBay for $6.45 each, Note: Phase is inverted 180 degrees, so swap + and - terminals for best bass with most conventional speakers.

Paul, I have a Gemini GXA-1600, if you want a budget amp to get you by. It, too, has Speakon connectors. Figure $140.00, shipped. Manual is easy to find online.

First thing you need to do is stop propagation of the crack by drilling a relief hole at the end of the crack. You can even do it with a pin, filed flat at the tip, in a variable speed drill, going as slow as you can, don't put pressure on the disc, let the drill bit do the work. Put something like Saran wrap over the data side, then put the disc on a rigid flat surface, like a plywood scrap, then drill. You don't want any flex in the disc while drilling or the crack will grow. Once you have the hole drilled, use a drop of super glue in the hole and one at the other end of the crack. Use a new razor blade to trim anything sticking up above the disc surface with radial scrapes. Be careful not to put scratches into the data area in any direction other than straight out from the center(radially). Scratches can be removed with a few quick passes of a pencil-type butane torch. This flash-melts the surface, which becomes flat again, filling in the scratches. It's a technique you want to practice on old CD's first.

Does anybody want a re-foaming tutorial? This guy does it like I do, except I use small pieces of cardboard between the frame and cone as spring wedges to push up on the cone when gluing the surround to the cone so that the frame doesn't get in the way. Don't apply too much pressure or the spider will break. Just get the cone up a 1/4" to 1/2". Once you get the surround glued to the frame you can slide the surround into position to center it by feel. Put your thumbs and forefingers on the cone and feel for voice coil rub in all directions. Its well positioned when you have to apply the same lateral pressure in all directions to get rubbing. The glue should give you plenty of working time. Don't rush. Be neat. You want a thin layer of glue on both parts before joining. he's using Aleene's. Good stuff. Get it at Walmart and other locations.

I've been re-foaming for decades. Takes about a half hour each. It's not too hard a job, just tedious. The cleaning off of the old stuff is both the most important and hardest part. Just make sure your glue is compatible with all materials. Most drivers self-center when attaching the surround to the basket. There is a 'feel' for it that I have, rather than shimming. I only shim when re-coning. The spider has to be right on center.

Another goner! Welcome!

I can't get in touch with the seller. Probably another a-hole who doesn't delete sold item ads.

Probably keep, for a while. I've been wanting to do single ended triode/pentode into full rangers for a while. I have kit boxes to build, but I haven't had the time. They are transmission lines, for 8" drivers. I currently have some E-V SP-8's to fill them, I think these are better!

Or W8-1772, which looks identical... They only want $250 for the set of five, maybe I should jump on them?

Looking to ID the cherry wood speakers. Don't look like Polk, as they are advertised. Look like 10" full-range with phase plugs, might be 8". From a CL ad locally.

Welcome! Yet another Carver/Polk fan. Amazing how many of us put those two brands together...my first Carver, an MXR-150 with M-500t powered a pair of Polk Monitor 10's. I thought it was the best sound EVER! Maybe you can join us and meet some of us and maybe even "The BobFather" Bob Carver himself in far west NC this September. Stick around!

I have had great results with a pencil butane torch. A few quick passes melts the surface scratches. It's amazing to see, actually. Try it on some 'don't care about' discs first. If scratches persist, don't overheat them, use a 'one year' car polish on them, it really does a great job. Buff out in radial lines, not circular. I've taken discs that don't read at all to playing superbly in no time. A freshly fixed cd should be backed up on a computer right away as many of the fixes don't hold up for long periods. The torch trick holds up the longest in my experience.

Looks like professional methods only, so no discussing stuff we do at home here.

Steve- How do you clean your records? That's the MOST important thing to do to get rid of noise. Don't obsess, as those noise reduction devices can, and usually do, degrade the sound. I got rid of all of that stuff a long time ago. The 'airyness' or sense of space was gone. The occasional pop or click just reminds me of how nice vinyl really is.