B-Man

Here's to a few that I have known over my time here at the CarverSite!. I know we lost a few and I know some of these folks still show up, but they aren't nearly as active as they once were. I hope they are all well and will find their way back here, if possible... RichP714 BillD TN Rabbit Steve Ford Snow staticvar Galaxyoilcan jvandyke_texas RobertG sanford lindstrom soulofsound winterluver detroit-rock elgrau

Should be only the fuse for the main power supply.

Welcome !!! Glad you found us. Let us know if you end up needing help with something, Carver related or not. We love audio gear made by others too !!!

Our country is now taking so steady a course as to show by what road it will pass to destruction, to wit: by consolidation of power first, and then corruption, its necessary consequence. - Thomas Jefferson

You get a lot more output power running the amp mono than you will running them in stereo and only using one channel.

You might try investing in some of these products to save your CDs. Most folks don't know it but if the label side of the disc is damaged it will affect the disc as well. Anyway, I have fixed many a skipping CD with this stuff... Novus Plastic Polishing System

What a list !! Welcome back Clyde. Glad you decided to re-join.

Contractors like that are why you should have a nice .44 magnum !!! Pull a Dirty Harry on his @$$.... Sorry to hear that - thieves are my #1 pet peeve.

Bohemian Rhapsody - Lake Street Dive

1. Get the 3rd hand tool Dom posted. 2. Put a dab of flux on each of the pins. 3. Touch a higher wattage iron and solder to each pin. The solder should flow immediately into the pin. 4. Tin the ends of each of the wires. 5. Put the heat shrink pieces on the wires. 6. Clean your iron tip. Touch a small amount of solder to it. Place the wire against the pin and touch the iron to both of them. The solder should flow almost immediately. With a slight bit of pressure you will feel the wire "crush" into the pin. 7. Remove the iron and hold the wire still until the solder solidifies.

Another version of the same song...

I assembled 4 pairs of these. I had to run a tap into several of the speaker holes, the aluminum cap brackets, the two holes for the speaker mounting to the stand and in all of the base plates to screw in the spikes. All of mine were easy enough to do and all but a few were caused by excess powder coat - par for the course I guess. I had one of the aluminum brackets with a buggered-up hole but a tap straightened it right out. Can you post a picture of what you are seeing ?

Type O Negative - Cinnamon Girl Type O Negative - Summer Breeze

I have that one too !! :-) I am fortunate in that I got to hang out with Greg, Leroy, Brett and Kyle (When Greg started Damn The Torpedoes) numerous times throughout the late 90's - early 2000's. If you don't have the "Damn The Torpedoes" CD, PM me... Greg has an amazing voice and great showmanship. It's sad they never made it to the big time - they had so much more talent than a lot of what I see today that is passed off as music...

Welcome to the madhouse MrBert !!! Glad to have you... Now, post the pictures already, would ya ??

OTD - I threw this together in Visio. I hope it helps... Tesla Speaker Wiring Diagram

If you switch to HTML for editing, you can use all your favorite right click commands...

After building the 2nd speaker in the 1st of four pairs, I have some additional suggestions for those who haven't built theirs yet : 1. Before you start assembly, get one screw of each size and verify that you can screw it into EVERY hole in the speaker cabinet, mounting brackets and end caps. I had two holes that I had to run a tap into to clean up the threads before the screws would start and one hole in an end cap that was blocked with powdercoat. 2. When I followed the instructions regarding the fiber fill, I ended up fighting a battle with little strands getting caught in the RTV sealant and sticking out between the cover and the body of the cabinet. For the 2nd unit, I test fitted the top, put the RTV sealant on it and installed the screws. I wiped the excess from the outside with a paper towel and then I stuffed the fiber fill in, going through the ribbon mounting hole. The bottom side I did put some fiber fill in before I installed the end cap, but I stuffed more in after the end cap was installed. 3. The XLR connector is actually too small for the wire supplied so you will need to fill the connector pin with solder, tin the wire and then use a larger iron to melt the two simultaneously and quickly, so you don't melt the plastic in the connector. 4. When I assembled the XLR connector, I found that the blue insert was the best fit for the wiring supplied with the kit. 5. I "glued" all of the crossover components to the mounting board with silicone. Once I get my bench back together, I am going to look at etching a PCB for the crossover. If you put your hand on the cabinet when playing them loud, there is quite a vibration or buzz apparent at certain frequencies. I think that the crossover components would be longer lived if they were mounted securely and soldered to a PCB. Time will tell I guess. 6. I tried to get the speaker wires through the cloth sleeve supplied with the kit. No matter how I tried, they kept snagging the sleeve and getting hung up. I finally grabbed a 8' section of steel fish tape I keep for wall wiring and ran it through the sleeve, taped the wires to it and pulled them back through the sleeve. 7. If you plan on mounting the binding posts to the stand base plate, you will need longer wires going to the XLR plugin connector. 8. If you are going to drill into any of the powdercoated surfaces, put a layer of painter's tape all around the intended hole. It will prevent the sharp shavings from scratching the surrounding surface. 9. I bend the terminals on the speakers slightly outward to make it easier to loop the connecting wires through the holes for soldering. They will still fit through the cabinet holes with room to spare. 10. After you seal the rear of the ribbon with the AC duct tape, the foam seal supplied with the ribbon may require a little trimming to fit correctly. If you don't trim it, it might press out a little bit when you tighten the mounting screws. 11. If any of the end caps are a tight fit when you do a test fitting, you may find it easier to get it all lined up if you proceed this way : Start all four screws by hand into the mounting brackets. Don't snap the end cap into place. Start the end cap screws by hand. Leave the mounting bracket screws loose until you get the end cap screws started. Then tighten the mounting bracket screws and the end cap screws together, alternating a turn or two between each, until you can get everything tightened down securely.

I will offer a few ideas from my experience with putting one of four together : 1. I insulated the 16Ω resistor by putting a layer of 3M electrical tape on the bottom of it. I placed it firmly on the coil, soldered them together and then applied a dab of silicone to mechanically bond them together. 2. I applied a dab of silicone to each of the caps on the crossover, as well as under the coil. Again, I am concerned about mechanical stability so a little silicone seems like a good idea to me. 3. When you assemble the end caps, leave the screws holding the drivers loose. Install the brackets for the end caps and leave those screws loose as well. Test fit the end caps and determine what orientation works best to allow you to start all four screws by hand. Put a piece of tape on the cap, mark it for polarity and then apply the silicone sealer to the edges. Go ahead and put a decent amount on, using your finger to make a nice bead and install it. The excess wipes off the powdercoat easily with a paper towel. Mine required starting the screws before actually seating the cap. 4. Be sure to use a large enough iron so you don't have to hold it on the speaker terminals for very long when soldering the wiring together. 5. When you insert the fiberfill, I would take it outside. Those little fibers get EVERYWHERE and are very hard to see.

The better Thiels don't need a sub and sound pretty awesome, IMHO...

Looking at the schematic, I would say it is likely your crossovers are either different than the schematic circuit depicted or the trace / circuit path going to the 22.5 Ω resistor is open.

Her album "Pirates" is also pretty awesome.