Will Meyer

Welcome to the site! I used to live in Middletown, DE. I moved from there to WA state in 2014. There is alot of good info on the site and the techs are very knowledgeable. I've learned alot in the 1.5 years I've been following the site. Glad you joined us.

Very nice! Mirror imaged sets. ...and these are the small ones?

Just to clarify... the C-11 is a slightly newer version of the C-1. The C-1 has a gray faceplace (anthracite), while the C-11 is black. The C-11 has a precog board in it (its not very usefull) and slightly different buttons. The BillD mod is the same between either of these amps since they are essentially the same. The C-11 is more of a rare bird, you'll see 10 C-1's for every C-11. Used the C-11 commands maybe $100 more on the market.

The BillD C-1 (or C-11) will outshine the stock C-4000. The design philosophy of the C-1 was (if I can paraphrase BillD) "Make it sound like it wasn't there". The engineer that developed the mod, focused on noise reduction throughout the preamp. Of course, we are comparing a standard preamp (C-4000) with an upgraded unit (new op amps, bi-polar audio caps replacing polarized caps in the signal path, upgraded resistors, etc). Many of these updates can be applied to the C-4000, but its hard to beat the value and quality of a BillD C-1.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carver-C-16-Preamplifier/184658056575?hash=item2afe7a557f:g:I3cAAOSwrJJgI009 FYI... A C-16 just showed up on ebay...

Welcome. I'm a fan of the TFM series, I've got at least of every series except the TFM-75. The -15 is often underrated, but its a great amp. It's a great feature to have Left and Right attenuators (like the -6, -35, and -55), allowing you to blend in speakers with different efficiencies (and who doesn't like the meters!). Welcome aboard. This is a great source for technical info and the people are great.

It took me 6 months to find my C-16. As soon as I got it, I sent it to Nelion for a complete service. They don't show up often, so you need to grab one when you see it. Are you aware that the C-6 is identical to the C-16 except for the color of the faceplate? When I opened up my C-16, I noticed that the mainboard is stenciled C-6. C-1's and C-11's are also great preamps. You can get faceplates for these to change the color (either anthracite or black). Pricing is dynamic, my guess on price for units in nice or better condition are: C-1 : $250 to $350 C-6 : $350 to $450 C-11 : $350 to $450 C-16 : $500 to $900 C-19 : $1200 to $2000 When I was looking, I bid on one at $1,000. I didn't get it, it sold for $1,100. However; one month later I found a nicer unit for $600. Guys - thoughts on pricing - think I'm off base? I troll eBay alot, but again these units don't show up often and it depends who you're in competition with. Good luck on your search!

I was growing up in Chicago during this period. He and his sidekick, Gary Miers, were a big thing with their anti-disco radio show. While I was couldn't get into disco, I was never a fan his show. He was always controversial. During the Iran hostage crisis, he would make prank overseas calls to Iran while on the radio. IIRC, the state department had to intervene through the radio station to get him to stop.

https://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/ele/d/bremerton-bob-carver-speakers-ts-p80/7249920238.html Anyone familar with these speakers? They seem fairly substantial- much more so than the Cinema series.

I'm a Scifi fan. I used to buy paper books, but since getting a Kindle, all my purchases are in electronic media. They definately take up less room. Currently I'm reading a space opera, The Lost Fleet, by Jack Campbell. I'm on book #2 of the series, Fearless.

Nice. I had a CT-7 and loved it, but sold it and bought a C-16, which I'm now having it refreshed at Nelion. I'm a big fan of JBLs and also have a set of L100t's as well as LX-55s and LX-44s, but the L100t's are my flagship speaker - I recently upgraded the crossover to T3 standards. I've never owned a TL-3100, but I've heard good things about them. As far as old gear goes, the electronics seem to hold up pretty well. The mechanical devices seem more problematic as the plastic components age, get brittle, and break. My amps I've not had any issues with, but I choose to start rotating them in to have them refreshed. I'm hopeful to get another 30 years out of them. Btw... Welcome to the site! There is always something interesting and worthwhile in the threads. I've learned alot in my time here.

Greetings!

Welcome Max - we are pleased to have on-board!

The M4.0t will drive anything. I have a lot of respect for the 901s, but they need good power (which you have), and the associated EQ (which I assume you have). That being said, if the 901s are original, they might have suffered from degradation of the speaker surround foams. If so, this is an easy fix - check out the Simply Speakers You tube video. I'm not sure I'd change them; however, if you want to get rid of them and experience something different, the M4.0t amp will surely be up to the task. I drive Magnepans with mine. I love the sound of these speakers, but getting used Maggies can be problemistic. The can suffer from delamination of the wire which can cause tears/failure of the mylar. New Magnepan LRS's are highly rated and are around $700 delivered (but expect a 12 week wait after ordering them). The NHT 2.x series is also highly rated. What's nice is that with an M4.0 you aren't limited by your amp. The CT-7 is my favorite Carver Preamp/Tuner. You've got a fine system.

Those speakers intrigued me. I see a lot of neat old gear in the Seattle area. I think that for a while Lynnwood, WA, was HiFi central and now a lot of that equipment is sitting unused in garages. So when I see something like that I really want to check it out (and buy it). My significant other thinks I spend too much time looking at audio equipment...

I came the link in Offer Up and I remember Carter’s posting. These Sound Of O speakers are listed again. The posting says only 2 pairs were ever made. https://offerup.com/item/detail/937426273/ They look very large....

At least they're light and easy to move. I'm currently rebuilding a set of JBL L-100t's. They are unreasonably heavy to move around. So... you'd recommend the Magnarisers? Also, was there a noticable break-in period for the LRS's? Mine were supposed to arrive mid July. I'm certain that they're delayed due the Covid. I'm rather excited about upgrading from my SMGa's

If I may ask... Your speaker in the background is a Magnepan MMG or LRS on a set of Magnarisers? I'm a fan of Magnepan and have a set of LRS's on order. I've been looking at rhe Magnarisers.

That Pioneer is a nice looking piece of kit. I thought it would be a good experiment. I have a set of Boston A70s that I plan to start with. I'll put a switch to bypass crossover so I can go back readily. Its a 2way, so its should be relatively easy to setup. If the results are promising, I'll try it on one of my 3ways.

Awesome! I'll pm you and share contact info. Thanks!

Btw... I'm in the Seattle, WA area. Marysville, WA - just north of Everett.

I agree with the philosophy of don't do anything you can't undo. The general reading is that active crossovers improve sound dramatically in a speaker. The reasoning why there aren't alot of them out there is that its three or four times more expensive than a passive crossover. For example, on a 3 way system, I'd need 3 power amps, and an active crossover. However, the advantages are phase alignment. Every inductor changes the phase of the signal, as well as every capacitor (in the opposite direction of the inductors). Additionally, the matching and blending of the drivers are limited by the slope of a passive crossover. The third factor is the low-pass, band-pass, and high-pass circuits use the speakers natural impedance as an integral part of the filter's functionality, yet the impedance of all speakers change at different frequencies. It's not unusual for a 6ohm to vary between 25 to 2 ohms depending upon frequency. By using an active crossover, all these issues are adverted. Granted, they are more complex to setup. Paul McGowen (PS Audio) states all manufactures would perfer to build speakers with active crossovers, but the consumer market won't support it because of the cost/complexity. My interest is largely academic. The pros/cons are straightforward but I'd like to experience the difference and evaluate it myself. Its not a problem I'm trying to resolve. This site is my major source of experienced audiophiles and technicians. I'm interested in hearing what their opinions and experiences are.

I was looking at a dbx-234s. It's around $200 new - If I hunt I might find a used one. It uses 1/4 inch plug-ins so I can use a standard adapter for RCA plugs. The unit will support stereo 2way, stereo 3way, or mono 4way (I currently don't have any 4way speakers). The Yamaha F1030 required 2 units to do the same thing. Daddyjt - I will research the DSP. It looks interesting. BarryG - I'm interested in your application with Maggies. I have a set of SMGa's, MG-12qr, and I waiting on a set of LRS (which have been on order since May 2nd). I play around a lot with conventional crossovers, but I haven't been able to bring myself to opening up the socks on the Maggies. Was the modifications to support an active crossover difficult? I notice many people pull the crossover and mount it in separate box. I could see the advantages to support larger poly caps and inductors in a passive crossover, while allowing it to readily pulled out of the circuit for an active crossover.

I've been thinking about using an active crossover for several months. I recently came across a pair of Yamaha F1030 active crossovers, and I almost got them but somebody beat me to them. I know to use an active crossover, you need a seperate amp channel for each driver and the power amp is connected directly to the driver. You also need an active frquency divider after the preamp. I noticed most of the active unit are hardwired for their crossover frequency. The F1030 was nice as since you can dial in the frequency, allowing me the option of experimenting with several speakers. As far as speakers go, I have several sets of 2 and 3 way speakers that I could add additional binding posts and a set of switches to bypass the crossover so I could use them on a system with an active crossover, or a conventional system that relies on the speaker's internal crossover. Anyone have any experience with this route? Any recommendtions on a reasonable brand/model of active crossover. Again having a unit that I can dial in frequencies would be important. Many dedicated units are done via hardwired modules - looking at the schematics, some of them are resistor packs.

Interesting stands.